I need to replace the R/R on my 2002 Daytona. Dennis Kirk seems to have a really good price on the Rick's Motorsports rectifier, but I did a quick search and they have some pretty bad reviews. Anyone have experience with this company and willing to share, or recommend a vendor they have had good luck with. I am located in the U.S. if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance.
I've been through a few R/R's over the years, but not yet on my Triumph (hopefully the PO already replaced it). Electrosport, Rick's, etc. they all carry about the same one year warranty. Unfortunately in my situations they always seemed to fail out of warranty. Anyhow, sorry to not be of more help with a recommendation, but I'm sure you'll get some more feedback from others.
regulatorrectifier.com these guys were great I replaced my RR a week ago and bought from them. Got the part quick the unit just plugs straight in.
Nothing but good words to say.
Just say hi to Scott from Jeremy )
I'm in Australia and had plenty of questions that got replied to straight away.
You can buy the new version for $100 or less, and they are basically a single replacement part that should not fail... ever. The switch took me all of 15 minutes They also provide nearly optimal voltage from Idle to Redline unlike the shunt type (old style) which are crap.
Here's the one I got a few weeks ago. It shipped real fast, and I was very impressed with the "kit" as whole! I've checked all the places and prices and this is well worth it. Comes with everything you need for the job to come out clean and correct ! I have a thread with this as well from a few weeks ago with some pics up. Its the upgrade for the FH012. . . . Its the FH020
To anyone that has not upgraded their r/r from the OEM, I would be recommending to buy the kit while you can get it at that price. It will save you money down the track.
I just got my Rick's rectifier home and started to install it when I noticed that it came with the correct plug on it for the stator wires, this is a little confusing since it also came with the "solder kit" and the instructions clearly say to solder the wires. Anyone else run into this?
Are you confusing the OEM plugs with the "upgraded" plugs that are sold with the kit? The upgrade provides a better, weatherproof connection although both the male and female plug obviously needs to be changed to suit. If you have the time and ability, I recommend upgrading the plugs to avoid any melting or corroded joints
EDIT: scrub that, the new plug design is an integral part of the r/r so you must have already had your r/r and wiring upgraded previously??
My understanding is the soldered connection conducts much better, almost like a system upgrade. I always make sure that I have dielectric grease on my connectors. My Triumph is the only vehicle that came with grease on the connectors from the factory.
I think if I remember when I was in search, ricks uses the factory triumph plugs, not the plugs that come with an upgrade like the shendogen (?) Or whatever it is.
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I don't know if the wiring/rectifier had been "upgraded" in the past, as I have only owned the bike for about three months. To compound that fact this is my first Triumph so I am fairly unfamiliar with this stuff to start with. The connectors on the rectifier were identical (other than color) to the burnt up part if that helps at all.
I do have a quick question about the temperature that a MOSFET style R/R like the Rick's piece should operate at. I took the bike for a ten plus minute ride at speeds under 50 mph. In the middle of that trip I did stop and touch the plastic where the R/R is located with the bike idling (not warm to the touch), I headed home and took off the rear solo seat piece and checked the R/R with my temp gun. The hottest reading was 100* on the aluminum fins. Is this normal? A little background, I did follow the diagnosing steps I found on here and the stator checked out, though I did replace the stator connector since it looked a little dark.
By way of comparison, this is an original r/r. The wires extend from the r/r and end in a black three pin plug. The FH012 or FH020 mosfet aftermarket advertised in the eBay ad has the plugs directly out of the r/r body rather than wires.
The mosfet runs much cooler than the original due to the internal (but don't ask me to explain!). I could not touch the original r/r after just a few minutes of running although the aftermarket is cool enough to keep your hand rested on it.
Thanks for the reply. The part I took off was definitely a factory style R/R. I would say that at 100* on the new part I could rest my hand on it, I just wanted an idea of what is "normal". I probably should have mentioned this in the earlier post, but the ambient temp last night was 90*.
Yep. What the system doesn't need, it shunts to earth.
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