Triumphrat

malott442

So, the helicoil did work?

The spark issue seems to be coming from the wiring harness, and it's many many "modifications".

Very interesting read, sounds like a real PITA. How many miles are on it?

anthonymeyer_9

Resurrecting this thread. I finally got another Daytona '98 t595. Similar symptoms except this time the owner said it was a bad ECM. After about 2 hours of fiddling around with the bike, I drained all the stale gas out and pulled the plugs and I got intermittent spark, and after alittle while I was getting much better spark having done nothing.

I then put the plugs back in and put the fuel tank back on and everything hooked up and she fired right up. She ran for approx 5 min then shut off

It happened right when I was about to take her for a spin, cant remember if I had the charger on or off at that point. The charger had been on for obviously charging the battery.

New plugs will be bought in the morning as well as a new ground block. I cant remember are there any ground connections to the motor I thought there were 13 for some reason.

I checked the codes before I ran the bike and one was P0230 which was fuel pump but I think that was a mistake from P/O now no codes are coming up after it ran that short time
The other code was p1231 ground fault I believe is what I found. Same thing no codes are coming up

Thank you for the help guys and sorry if its wrong to resurrect one of my old threads but figured since I read all the old pages and went through everything that was previously stated this is the best way instead of starting from the beginning.

bradtx

anthonymeyer 9, No need to keep the battery charger connected when the engine is running and could be detremental. Check the resistance of the crankshaft position sensor (CPS), it should read 1350 ohms +/- 50 ohms. It should also have 1 mm clearance to the toothed wheel.

Brad

anthonymeyer_9

How do I check the resistance of the cps?

DEcosse

Just unplug it & measure between the terminals of the connector.

Note that the CPS changed somewhere along the line:
The original CPS has ~ 1300 ohms and had part# T1290026;
Later (not sure when this cut-in happened) this was changed to T1290036 which measures about 540 ohms.

The fiche only shows the '36 item for all 97-01 models now, so is backward compatible throughout that range
So depending which one you have, you should measure either 540 or 1300 ohms

What is important is that the gap is set correctly.



P1231 is Fuel Pump Relay, which may have been unplugged at some point for testing

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anthonymeyer_9

OK, well I put new plugs in, changed oil, new ground block, checked resistance at the cps and it was the 1300 or so ohms and had the 1mm give or take of clearance on the rotor and cps. I think I figured the problem, when I drained the tank I didnt get all the bad gas out of the pump or the fuel rail so re-drained everything pump, tank and rail and will try in the morning. Yea Little slow on my end

anthonymeyer_9

Still confused I think now I remembered why I got rid of my first daytona. Again, I checked the air gap and it was at about 1mm with feeler gauge and got the correct ohms out of it. The bike huffs and puffs and backfires. I hit it with ether and she starts for not a second and back to huffing and puffing. Im losing hair trying to get this figured out. I just dont get it how it was running one day and then out of nowhere just quit and then goes to be stubborn with huffing and puffing.

anthonymeyer_9

P/O stated it needed a new igniter according to the Techs that he took it to. What is an igniter?

DEcosse

There is no igniter on your bike - the ECM drives the coils


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App

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anthonymeyer_9

Ok, well then Im completely stumped. What else could keep it from really running even though I have spark?