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Last w/e I reset the valve clearances on my Daytona 900, a job I've done twice before, at intervals of approx 6,000 miles. I measured the gaps, took out the cams, swapped the shims, reassembled everything, remeasured the gaps.
Unfortunately I'd gone the wrong way on the far-RH exhaust valve, and put a thinner shim in where I should have used a thicker one. I really didn't fancy doing the whole cams/camchain thing again, so I wondered if I might be able to swap the shim with the cams in (I do not have the £70 special tool).
With the cam lobe pointing away from the shim, I put most of my 14 stone onto a large screwdriver placed at the edge of the bucket and managed to push it down and hold it down. My missus then got the tip of a small screwdriver under the edge of the shim and levered it up. Then pushed it out with the help of some small needled-nosed pliers.
Getting the correct, thicker shim back in again needed both my 14 stone and the needle-pliers. It was very satisfying to hear the correct shim snap back into positon as I eased my weight off the screwdriver.
I remeasured the clearance, spot-on.The bike runs smoother again now - or is that my imagination? I did a few other things too - reset a plug gap, cleaned the air filter, reset the pick-up coil gap, so I can't be sure it was just the shim swapping that has sweetened the running.
Would I recommend this method? Well, it was a bit of a fiddle. You need to be fairly heavy to push the bucket down.
You need a nimble-fingered assistant. And I daresay you could damage the bucket by putting weight on it. And certain other buckets will be less accessible, particularly those of the centre-pot.
If I have more than two valves need re-shimming next time I do this job, I'll get the cams out as usual. But if only one or two need re-shimming, I might be tempted to do the above.
NB no responsibility accepted for anyone damaging their valve buckets!
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