Triumphrat

omenology

First, the specs:

2002 Daytona 955i
13200 Miles
K&N Air Filter, Micron Pipe
Tuneboy (Running MassiveMidrange2, or MM2Eldrich, or standard TOR)

As of 2 days ago: brand new spark plugs (CR9EK), new fuel filter (Triumph), Recharged Air Filter, Half a can of Seafoam run through (just in fuel)

Last oil change was done perhaps 1000-1500 miles ago. Full synthetic 10w40, Purolator Filter.

The problem:
For quite some time now, my bike really hasn't had what's expected of it for power. I've talked to other Daytona 955i owners, as well as ridden their bikes at one time or another. Just isn't the same. Regardless of how much tuning I do, or how many parts I replace, I see no real rise in performance. Additionally, there's the issue of idle. The bike idles somewhat rough, but in addition, seems to idle without much power to it. If I rev the engine high, and let the throttle go, the bike will die before it can reach a normal idle again.

We've just started receiving some good weather again up here in Wisconsin, and I've just started riding the bike again. Even after all the cleaning over the winter, still have the same issues.

One thing I have noticed is the sound of the engine. It's just not loud, or sharp, or revvy. If I rev the engine up to 7, 8, or 9 grand, there just aren't the sharp notes that you'd expect. The engine almost sounds muffled.

Now, the old plugs, as well as the muffler, are most certainly carboned. I have not been able to figure out why this is the case, especially considering the fuel filter was not really dirty before I cleaned it, and I've been using proven fuel maps that shouldn't give me such bad mixtures.


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So, anyone have any ideas? I've kinda run out at this point.

Thanks in advance,
Some Guy Asking for Advice on a Forum

turbohipster

Compression check, compression check, compression check. 3 ideas, sorry. My bike got to the point where it wouldn't even start with the starter for the guy who I bought it from. After checking the compression the dealership told me it was worthless. NOT SO!!
The valves, in my case intake, were too tight. Thats all!!!! Check it out.
Glenn......................The weather is already good in Wisconsin???? So Cal has some catchin' up to do!!!!

omenology

It is in the mileage range for vale reshimming, although I wouldn't have figured it would have gotten this bad.

I can take it to the dealer to get shimmed, although I'd much rather avoid that cost. Do you know all what's needed to reshim them? I would assume a new set of shims, as well as a feeler gauge. Anything else though?

turbohipster

Thats about it. Mine had 39k on it. The dealer charged me $140 to do a leakdown test which resulted in 90% loss. It was still running if you push started it!! They basically told me it would cost more to fix it than it was worth. When I popped the valve cover, it was obvious it had never been done before. You should be able to slide through .15-.20 mm shim on exhaust valves, .10-.15 intake......I couldn't get ANY clearance on the intake side.
1 cylinder at a time I took a small screwdriver and compressed the lip of the cam follower {thanks to advice from PHXMan} and replaced the 280 shims with 260 shims. on completion my intake valves were within tolerance.
The thing started up and ran like a brand new bike. I had to use the same screwdriver to pry the smile off of my face!!!
It can't hurt to check!
Glenn

{I used a screwdriver of which I put a small bend on the tip. Again props to PHXMan}

bradtx

omenology, Take care of all of the mechanical checks first. Clearance specs for the second gen 955 are: Intake .10-.20 mm, Exhaust .20-.30.

Custom tunes almost always require a bit of personalizing. The '02 is running a slightly modded MM with a bit of fueling taken out. A chassis dyno with an air/fuel ratio probe will help you a ton.

Brad

RexxyPup

Another thing to be aware of is that the Gen 2 motor is a shim under bucket, while the Gen 1 is shim over bucket, so you would have to remove the cams to do the Gen 2 Motor

Rexx

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omenology

Yeah. I'm getting all the parts together today. I'm on a 6 day in a row work streak right now, today being day 2, so I'm not gonna have much time for the process in the next few days. It's tough because the Daytona is my only vehicle aside from a bicycle. And in Wisconsin, that's a pretty bad setup.

I've got all the tools I need, save the feeler gauge. I have my bike set up in my machine shop right now, so I've got a micrometer and all the tools I need there. I just have to pick up a feeler gauge, a magnetic extraction tool, and some silicone sealant for when I put the cam covers back on. I figure I'll measure my clearances, and then leave it at that stage until I pick up the new shims, at which point I'll take out the cam shafts and finish the process.

Any encouraging words for someone who never has much luck with this?

turbohipster

YES!! You'll be fine. I think you'll find it's easier than it looks,,,sounds. At least if the valves do need adjustment you'll be doing preventive maintenance in a sense. Good Luck!!!
Glenn

omenology

Oh, and for the record, my local shop wanted $390.00 plus tax (5.5% here) for the valve adjustment work. I told them that was a bit outrageous, and that for 390 dollars I could buy all the tools I'd ever need for the job, and pay myself a hefty sum to learn and complete the process. I think it'll be a good personal investment .

bradtx

omenology, Your engine has the shims under follower buckets. It's a cams out job at replacement time. Easy enough, just line up the T1 timing mark and the two camshaft marks and ensure the engine doesn't turn.

Brad