Triumphrat

evyl00 · 03-15-2010, 11:01 AM

okay - i have tested the coils and spark plugs, they are getting electricity;

I have replaced tank fuel send/return fittings (mainly because I busted one...oops) - checked the lines to ensure they were connected to proper fuel terminals;

everything ok; bought two batteries - the first one I sent back, the second one I know has been checked and is putting out correct volts/amps;

the bike is turning over pretty strong and rapid, it just isn't firing at all;

I checked for non-condensable and to ensure all cylinders were pushing correctly - they are ok (to the eye sight);

the bike had tipped over once and since then won't start, i thought maybe one of the coils got damaged from rain, no dice;

my next step (in my mind) is to check the fuel injectors, fuel pump, and fuel pump relay;

I hear the fuel pump connect when engage the killswitch in the 'on' position so I don't think it is the pump or relay - but I have no clue and riding season is like days away - I am getting really ticked off! Someone please help before I shoot this damn machine with a .50 cal hand gun!

robbo1847 · 03-15-2010, 12:51 PM

i have this problem all the time last time i had to have ecu reflashed , it ran fine for awhile , now it wont start again, it was acting up again too sometimes will die when i pull clutch all the way ,or when i nail the throttle and and release it , it is driving me nuts .

bradtx · 03-15-2010, 02:33 PM

evy100, Only wouldn't start after being laid down? Try tapping the tip over sensor/switch with a screwdriver handle (I don't think there's a reset switch).

robbo, Do you use the ignition key exclusively to turn off the engine?

Brad

robbo1847 · 03-15-2010, 03:19 PM

no ,, it will crank but it wont fire off

bradtx · 03-15-2010, 06:11 PM

robbo, Try spraying some starting fluid into the throttle bodies. Just see if you can get a couple of farts out of the engine, don't try to keep it running.

Brad

evyl00 · 03-16-2010, 11:37 AM

how does one go about getting starting fluid into the engine in order to see if it will fire?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradtx

robbo, Try spraying some starting fluid into the throttle bodies. Just see if you can get a couple of farts out of the engine, don't try to keep it running.

Brad

bradtx · 03-16-2010, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evyl00

..the bike had tipped over once and since then won't start..

You just need to look at/test the tipover switch at this point. You'll need to remove the rear plastic to obtain the best access.

Brad

PS To spray starting fluid into the TBs the airbox needs to be removed.

evyl00 · 03-16-2010, 02:20 PM

I took off the tip over switch, put the ohmeter on it and it was reading about 2 + ohms. Should the tip over be normally open or normally closed? I tried starting the bike WITHOUT the tip over switch plugged in and none of the electronics worked - obviously the bike wouldn't turn over. I put the switch back in, and the bike would turn over, but won't fire.

bradtx · 03-16-2010, 04:50 PM

evy100, Unfortunately the Ignition Switch Relay and the Tip Over Switch are late 2002 additions into the circuit and my schematic just shows a box for the Tip Over Switch and no documentation either. It looks like there should be continuity between all three pins with the switch upright and at least no continuity with pin 6 when laid on it's side.

Brad

DEcosse · 03-16-2010, 08:07 PM

Bike will not crank with TOS either out of circuit or 'tilted' - if the engine turns over with starter then the TOS is good and the Ignition Relay must also be energized.
If TOS is open, then the Ignition relay will not latch and you will get neither ignition power nor ability to have starter function.
So definitely not the TOS switch.
The ignition relay then supplies (via the alarm module interlock) the Fuel Pump, ECM & Instrument panel - you already acknowledged that you hear fuel pump run when kill turned on & off - another tell-tale indicator would be that your neutral light is on.
That tells you you have no ignition circuit issue, via either ignition relay nor alarm interlock.

The other thing to check is the main power relay - that is actually NOT part of the ignition circuit - however is essential to supply power (via fuse 6) to the ignition coils and injectors.
So you want to be sure that relay is energizing and that fuse 6 is good (check for power on both sides of fuse 6) you can measure to see that you have positive voltage on any of the pink/brown wires to the injectors, coils, O2 sensor, SAI Solenoid connector or Purge Valve connector (note that the latter two may be unpopulated for some markets)