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Daytona Deliberations For owners and riders of Daytona 900, 955, 1000 & 1200

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Old 03-03-2010, 09:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy T595 problems

Hi everyone, got my T595 ('97) from my dad last year (he made only about 1000 km in 4 years when he had it), but i have only problems with it i was able to find some solutions in these forums, but hopefully you'll be able to help me a little bit more...

Signal lights and fuses
I mounted LED signal lights, but because the resistance was too small i tried to connect two bulb signal lights under the seat (someone told me to try this) since then the signal lights blink as they should, but my 5A fuse for tail light, parking light and gauges backlight is burnt as soon as i turn ignition key. I'm not sure whether this is anyhow connected or there is another failure...

Engine Management Control light
another problem is that the EMC light is always on, but hopefully the reset i read about in here will help me with this (bike rides well)...

Fan
another problem i read about, but didn't find any solution that would help me is that the fan is sometimes on even 5 minutes after turning the motor off. sometimes it's on just for about minute but sometimes it works for this long... not sure whether to be worried about this or not, but my friend (who's a mechanic) told me, that it shouldn't works like this...

Idle and cutting off
but the worst problem is with the idle revs speed... it worked fine but one day i just started the bike and since then the idle revs are quite small and the engine just cuts off... sometimes it does hold right idle and sometimes it does this... and when the motor is warmed up and i turn the thortle to let's say 5000 revs and it should fall back onto 1200 or what's the right idle speed is it stucks for 2-3 seconds on about 3000 revs... and then fall down but sometimes the engine cuts off again... this is really annoying when riding or so... cause when i push the clutch lever and stop e.g. on crossroads the engine cuts off sometimes... as i said it does only sometimes... but still i'm a bit worried about this...

sorry for so many questions but i really love that triple speed sound and don't wanna put her away so i'm trying to help myself as i can... here in Czech Republic are only few of them so there are only a few mechanics who really understand them... and you mostly need a little fortune to even talk to them...
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Old 03-03-2010, 12:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Skvara, Remove the jury rig bulbs to see if the 5A fuse still blows. The 5A fuse is for the side and tail lamps.

An OBDII scanner can read if there are Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored. If none are active three heat cycles will extinguish the MIL.

How hot, or how high on the scale does the temp gauge get? It's fairly normal for the fan to run after switching off the engine, but even in my 38 C temp summers mine have never overrun for five minutes. A coolant system flush may be a good idea.

The Idle Air Controller Valve (IACV) may be carboned. Clean the interior of the valve. With the valve out verify it moves when switching the key to run and again when switched to off.

If the total mileage if over 20 K have the valves been serviced and the throttle bodies balanced? The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) may also need checking.

Brad
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Old 03-03-2010, 03:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skvara View Post
Signal lights and fuses
That fuse is on a different circuit to the turn signals - and obviously since your turn signals still work, the problem is most likely unrelated to those extra bulbs. But there may be something else going on there in the area you were working.
Start by disconnecting the plug to the brake/tail light and the license plate light, then see if your new fuse remains intact when you turn on the ignition. If it does, see if there is an issue with one of those circuits - I have seen bulbs fail before, where the melted filament can short to the base.
If it still blows, then repeat the same test but this time disconnecting the instrument connector plug and the front parking light connector, to see where the source of the short is located.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skvara View Post
Engine Management Control light
There must be a sensor fault somewhere - as Brad suggests, you can find this more easily by getting the fault code from the ECM.
Some autoparts stores (at least in this country) have OBD reader that you can plug into the diagnostic connector so you can test to see what the precise cause of failure is.
Otherwise you can check to see that all your sensors are properly connected - you might simply find something is disconnected. Airbox temp sensor or pressure sensor are common ones that get left off if airbox was removed;
As Brad says, even if you find a disconnected sensor, the light will remain on until 3 warm-up/cool-down cycles have been completed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skvara View Post
Fan
The fan will continue to run after the ignition off, until it cools below the preset temperature. If it continues to run, either your temperature is excessively high, or perhaps your relay is sticking. The temperature gauge indication will certainly tell you if the bike is running too hot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skvara View Post
Idle and cutting off
Problems in this area are most often caused by either the ISCV or leaks in the ISCV system hoses - start by inspecting all the hoses between the Idle Control Valve and the Throttle Bodies - at the age of the bike, if these have not been previously replaced, they will almost certainly be cracked and leaking. For the valve itself, may need to be cleaned and new O-ring installed.
Another source of air leak is the gasket from Throttle Body to intake ports - make sure that this is not a problem - you can squirt some TB/Carb cleaner or similar around that gasket at the base of the TBs to see if it changes how it runs.

Good Luck!
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
An OBDII scanner can read if there are Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored. If none are active three heat cycles will extinguish the MIL.

Brad
Where can I connect an OBDII scanner to the bike? I was looking for the connector on the Haynes manual but couldnīt find a reference for it. How can I access it?

thanks
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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L007, It's under the rider's saddle. You'll find two connectors, one with a couple of wire shunts attached or an alarm's connection and another, smaller connector with perhaps a rubber cover. The smaller connector is the ECU's portal.

Brad
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
Skvara, Remove the jury rig bulbs to see if the 5A fuse still blows. The 5A fuse is for the side and tail lamps.

An OBDII scanner can read if there are Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored. If none are active three heat cycles will extinguish the MIL.

How hot, or how high on the scale does the temp gauge get? It's fairly normal for the fan to run after switching off the engine, but even in my 38 C temp summers mine have never overrun for five minutes. A coolant system flush may be a good idea.

The Idle Air Controller Valve (IACV) may be carboned. Clean the interior of the valve. With the valve out verify it moves when switching the key to run and again when switched to off.

If the total mileage if over 20 K have the valves been serviced and the throttle bodies balanced? The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) may also need checking.

Brad
thanks for reply, i'm going to try to disconnect those bulbs and see what happens, but i'm not getting to my bike for about a week as i'm on college

well when the fan starts the temperature is quite normal i think... and still it sometimes run for about five minutes or so... but it happens occasionally, as sometimes it runs for only about a minute or so even when temp was quite the same... and i flushed the coolant system as i was doing some maintenance last year (Haynes manual helped me)... another thing is that when i stop on the traffic lights the engine temp goes up and the engine starts to overheat... when riding, temperature is quite ok, but when i stop and let the engine running for about 5 minutes, the pointer goes almost to red...

i'm sorry, i'm not very technical type of person, can you guide me where the IACV is situated?! i hope my Haynes manual will help me, but i don't have it right here on me, so i'd better like to know where to look for as i won't have the amount of time i'd like to have to work on the bike

the mileage is about 25 000 km right now and it was in the Triumph service at about 23 000 km but i'm not quite sure what they were doing with the bike
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
Welcome!


That fuse is on a different circuit to the turn signals - and obviously since your turn signals still work, the problem is most likely unrelated to those extra bulbs. But there may be something else going on there in the area you were working.
Start by disconnecting the plug to the brake/tail light and the license plate light, then see if your new fuse remains intact when you turn on the ignition. If it does, see if there is an issue with one of those circuits - I have seen bulbs fail before, where the melted filament can short to the base.
If it still blows, then repeat the same test but this time disconnecting the instrument connector plug and the front parking light connector, to see where the source of the short is located.


There must be a sensor fault somewhere - as Brad suggests, you can find this more easily by getting the fault code from the ECM.
Some autoparts stores (at least in this country) have OBD reader that you can plug into the diagnostic connector so you can test to see what the precise cause of failure is.
Otherwise you can check to see that all your sensors are properly connected - you might simply find something is disconnected. Airbox temp sensor or pressure sensor are common ones that get left off if airbox was removed;
As Brad says, even if you find a disconnected sensor, the light will remain on until 3 warm-up/cool-down cycles have been completed.


The fan will continue to run after the ignition off, until it cools below the preset temperature. If it continues to run, either your temperature is excessively high, or perhaps your relay is sticking. The temperature gauge indication will certainly tell you if the bike is running too hot.


Problems in this area are most often caused by either the ISCV or leaks in the ISCV system hoses - start by inspecting all the hoses between the Idle Control Valve and the Throttle Bodies - at the age of the bike, if these have not been previously replaced, they will almost certainly be cracked and leaking. For the valve itself, may need to be cleaned and new O-ring installed.
Another source of air leak is the gasket from Throttle Body to intake ports - make sure that this is not a problem - you can squirt some TB/Carb cleaner or similar around that gasket at the base of the TBs to see if it changes how it runs.

Good Luck!
thanks, i'll try to play with those bulbs and hopefully i'll find out what the problem is... it's quite annoying when it gets dark and i can't even see what's the speed i'm going... not even mentioning that my tail can be seen only because of the refleting glass...

i will look for those sensors about airbox whether my mechanic just didn't forget to plug them back and will try to reset the light

as i've written in the upper post... the temp is quite normal even when the fan runs for about 5 minutes... i do understand that when the engine is almost overheated then the fan should run for quite a long time, but it does happen even in situation when it sometimes run for just about a minute or so...

will try to inspect those hoses... my father crashed the bike a little bit and then it was just not properly stored in his friends barn... so the dirt may have gotten everywhere, but hopefully it will just be those hoses...

thanks for your help so far everyone, i'll let you know what i was able to solve as soon as i get to bike (what won't be till next weekend)
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Old 03-04-2010, 05:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Skvara, The IACV can be found by following the large diameter hose from the airbox that 'J hooks' into the bottom of the Idle Air Controller Manifold (IACM) on the right hand side of the engine, you'll need to remove the right side fairing. The IACV is held on by two screws to the top of the IACM and had a four wire cable on top of the IACV.

Brad
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Old 03-06-2010, 11:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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AS for the high idle temp and fan running for extended times, mine does that when there's air in the cooling system. There's a bleeder at the thermostat housing that helps, but I also overfill the reserve bottle a few times, get it good and hot and then let it cool. For some odd reason this helps get the rest of the air out and set the level in the reserve bottle.
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Old 03-06-2010, 11:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I have seen the fan run more than five minutes a couple of times, but that was after getting caught in traffic on one of our 40 DEG C Dallas days...
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