Triumphrat

malott442 · 02-20-2010, 08:32 PM

I just picked up a 2nd daytona.... yes! I have 2 Centennials sitting in my garage. I'm gonna get the new one ready, and sell old faithful when its time....

It has a few bugs. Tiny things. This one is the biggest pain.

Full tank of gas, troubleshot the sensor, and it is working fine. For the sake of speculation, I replaced it with the other sensor, and the light is still on.

It is on with the ignition like usual, and momentarily goes out when the bike fires, as normal. After less than 7 seconds of running, light is on..

Any suggestions?

I'm going outside right now to swap instrument clusters, and then I guess tomorrow I will be pulling the ECM to swap for a look.

Am I crazy, or is there an adjustment with Tuneboy? I don't have tuneboy yet. YET! I'm waiting to finish paying off tuition this semester, and after 4 years of cussing PCIII I think Im gonna TUNE the girl.

DEcosse · 02-20-2010, 08:43 PM

Do you have check engine light along with the low fuel light?

Go to Radio Shack & pick up a pack of resistors

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062313

Disconnect the sensor and plug one resistor across the terminals of the harness connector - turn on ignition, wait 30 secs, light should be out.

Now take 2 resistors and twist them together so they are in series (for 94 ohms) - connect this combo across connector terminals - light should be on.

Try not to turn on ignition with nothing connected across the connector - that will generate an MIL light and it will take 3 hot/cool cycles to clear it (you may already have the MIL).

Since you have it common with both sensors, it may be a wiring issue.

Has the wiring to the instrument cluster been disturbed at all?
There are actually three black wires to the cluster - one is the ground, one is the oil pressure light & one is ground-interrupted by starter relay.
It almost sounds like the last one is mixed with the proper one given the change at starting (there is always delay on changing state with the fuel light, since it has a capacitive input)
Does your main beam indicator (or even oil pressure light) not work by chance?
Of course that would all suppose that the connector plug/harness to instruments had been repaired at some point

malott442 · 02-20-2010, 10:07 PM

The MIL light was not lit. I think I can swing by Radio shacky when I get up tomorrow..... I tried the sensor on my bike and it worked fine. I think you may be right about a ground being jacked up. The voltage signal to the tank is there. I think it was 5v or so. It was the same reading on both bikes.

I'll look at the grounds and see what I can uncover. I've already found one of the vacuum lines going from the ECU to the idle control circuit was MIA.

It ran fine somehow. ????

DEcosse · 02-20-2010, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by malott442

.... The voltage signal to the tank is there. I think it was 5v or so. It was the same reading on both bikes....

The voltage should be different depending on what the fuel level is - the resistance of the sender forms a voltage divider with a fixed resistor inside the ECM, so will be different for different fuel levels.
Unless you meant you measured it open circuit (connector un-plugged) of course ..........

malott442 · 02-21-2010, 01:37 PM

Yes I measured them open.

Going to the shack now.

malott442 · 02-21-2010, 02:24 PM

Back from the shack. 4 seconds to light going on after startup, invariably.

I guess it's time to look at the grounds I guess? I'm going to swap ECM's to just take a peek.... Both sets of fairings are off, both fuel tanks are unbolted.

The bike has been low-sided at a fairly low speed. The speedo doesn't work and the low fuel light is obviously on all the time. I haven't pulled the front wheel yet to check the sensor (lost my axle tool

)

Is there a location for looking at the grounds? I don't see anywhere where the harness looks molested by the gauges, though a shadetree mechanic molested themself a more solid connection from the stator to the battery. No fuse, naturally.

Also, there is a plug by the battery with two loops on it. One has been cut and re-soldered. And I had to remove the harness from someone who previously installed a vapor (gauge for rpm and speed I guess?) on it. It was not on the bike anymore when I got my hands on it.

The oil pressure light appears to work. I'm going outside to check it right now.

malott442 · 02-21-2010, 02:45 PM

Swapped ECU's. Light works! Stranger than fiction........ Do you think maybe the ECU is internally jacked? Or would I be safe to try to get it re-set? Would a local stealership be able to fix it with tuning? I don't know anyone in the area with Tuneboy....

What year ECU's will work on it? 2002 Daytona CE

malott442 · 02-21-2010, 02:49 PM

Additional information! Speedo now works as well!!!!!

bradtx · 02-21-2010, 04:19 PM

mallot442, Reinstall the suspect ECU in the new CE, or try it in the other CE. The ECUs are hard to hurt, except with a voltage spike. Possibly a loose connector?

The barometric pressure hose from the air box to the ECU can be disconnected with little or no degradation of performance. The air the ECU samples won't be filtered, however.

Brad

DEcosse · 02-21-2010, 04:26 PM

Did not realize speedo was not working - could have used that info earlier!
Know exactly what problem is now!
The loaded tune in that ECM is for 00-01 Daytona - that does not have the resistive fuel sender, electronic speedo sender - or the O2 sender
Get it re-flashed with the later tune & all will be well.