Triumphrat

Marks Daytona · 11-07-2009, 12:31 AM

Hi all,
I have just realised I am missing pages 16-29 onwards from the electrical section of my workshop manual, which includes the main wiring diagram. I got the manual with the bike when I bought it, so I did not get it brand new.

Can anyone possibly send me a copy? I am trying to work out what factory wiring exists for the alarm and how I might use it for an aftermarket alarm.

Thanks.

Marks Daytona · 11-07-2009, 01:38 AM

Hi, can anyone identify this plug and hopefully confirm that it is actually the alarm module plug? It would seem logical that the loop wires are there to close the kill switch and ignition wiring circuits in the absence of the alarm option but I am totally guessing. It was tucked behind the fuses box with the analyser plug.

My only concern is the number of black wires going into it.

If this is the alarm module plug then it makes the fitting of the aftermarket so much easier. BTW - I am hoping someone might know which are the relevant wires

DEcosse · 11-07-2009, 02:26 AM

That is the alarm connector plug and the two loops in the bypass plug are the relay contacts that the alarm module makes
(1 -2 & 3-5)

DEcosse · 11-07-2009, 02:45 AM

Here you go - just traced them out for you
Not sure which is anode/which cathode on the LED outputs - that will be easy enough to figure out.

Pin - Function
01 - Ignition Out (connected externally to 3)
02 - Ignition In (from the O/P of Ignition Relay)
03 - Ignition out (externally connected to 1)
04 - Ignition In (from run switch to to Internal relay)
05 - Ignition Out (to starter switch)
06 - Battery +
07 - Left Turn + (output)
08 - Right Turn + (output)
09 - Battery -
10 - LED
11 - LED
12 - Battery -

Marks Daytona · 11-07-2009, 06:20 AM

You're a gem DEcosse! I knew you would come up with the goods.

Now by cross-referencing the pins to the attached alarm wiring diagram, the indicators yellow (7, 8), battery positive red (6) and earth black (9) are easy.

If I want an ignition on (switched) positive (orange wire), can I tap 02?

Also the alarm has two wires (pink and grey) for a kill switch which intercepts the bike kill switch button. Should that go between 3&5?

DEcosse your help is very much appreciated as always!

DEcosse · 11-07-2009, 01:52 PM

Here is the OEM Ignition/Starting simplified schematic which you can also use as a reference.

What I would suggest is the following

Pin - New Alarm
01 - Pink
02 - Grey
03 - OPEN
04 - Orange
05 - Blue
06 - Red
07 - Yellow
08 - Yellow
09 - Black
10 - OPEN
11 - OPEN
12 - OPEN

You need to not take the new alarms labels too literally - the most critical one is what they call 'kill switch: you have to recognize that the kill switch is already in circuit earlier in the Triumph circuit, before the ignition relay;
So I would deduce that what they call the 'kill' is actually the interrupted output.
If you wanted to wire that to the kill switch, you would have to break the signal to/from the switch and you would still have to provide the shorting link between 1 & 2.
The way I suggest I think makes more sense and you can pick up everything directly off the alarm connector plug.
Ideally, if you could pick up some new terminal pins for that by-pass connector, you could use that and would not have to cut any of your original wiring.
Take a picture of the terminal pins and send it to Jim at Eastern Beaver and ask if he can supply for you.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
To unlatch the terminals from the connector, just use a needle or similar from the front side (non-wire-side) to depress the latch and pull the terminal out from the wire side.

Marks Daytona · 11-07-2009, 05:58 PM

Thanks DEcosse, forever in your debt as usual....

The reference to "kill switch" is my own wording. The original diagram from China referred to "distinguishing line" which I gathered came from "extinguishing line", which is another way of referring to the "run switch" or "kill switch". Based on the scissors and through deduction, thats how I called it.

BTW "acc output" was originally labeled "positive electricity from faucet"

Anyway, being the man I am, I cannot help but want to clarify a couple of things!

The pink and grey are there to open or close the run switch circuit which, for my previous bike I traced/cut the relevant wires from the hand controls and soldered them in line. Your pin identification led me to believe the equivalent pin number must be 4 ("from run switch...") but then it if it does not loop then it must be a tap rather than part of the closed circuit (if that makes sense?).

But you have always proven yourself correct and the "kill switch" is basically opening and closing a circuit so I will follow your directions and report back! After breakfast I will bring the trusty multi-meter with me and start testing the pins you have referred to.

DEcosse · 11-07-2009, 06:40 PM

I read their diagram to be that the normal current path would be from ignition to the kill switch - their proposal is to cut that power line & wire with the grey wire to the end that goes to the ignition and the pink wire to the end that goes on to the kill switch
You already have a 'break' however because of the existing alarm wiring/connector plug - so it makes more sense to use that, than cut into an existing power wire on the Triumph for a new break point.

Sorry I should have provided the key for the diagram above
14 - Ignition
19 - Tip-Over Switch ('normal' closes the ground contact to the ign relay)
20 - Ignition Relay
15 - Run/Kill
16 - Start
17 - Alarm Module

On the OEM alarm module, per the diagram, pin 4 is actually the power input on a relay coil that closes the dual contacts between 1 & 2 and 3 & 5
What you need is the power in - for which you can use the inputs tp pin 4 and pin 2.
The required outputs are for the starter - for which you use pin 5 and the ignition power, which comes out on pin 1
Remember 1 & 3 are connected externally of the alarm connector anyway.

Note that the power through the kill switch does not actually carry any ignition current - it only serves to energize the ignition relay and the alarm relay - the main ignition current is supplied by the ignition relay and that output is what you want to switch through your new alarm interrupt (the grey & pink wires)

I'm not really sure about the function of the orange wire - that's an input I have to believe, not an output.

Marks Daytona · 11-07-2009, 08:05 PM

Making much more sense now...

The workshop manual diagram key is incorrect! They show 20 as an "alarm control module" as well as 17 "alarm control unit". I should have spent more time trying to trace the lines and realise 20 is ignition relay.

DEcosse -1, Triumph -0

Yes, I too assume the orange is an ignition live input to the alarm, rather than an output. I assume this wire tells the alarm when the ignition has been turned on?

Also, I will not use the blue wire as I think this is mainly for remote starting cars in cold climates for warm up, but completely unnecessary for bikes.

Thanks again DEcosse. I keep waiting to receive an invoice for your services!!!

I hope this thread also helps anyone else fitting an aftermarket alarm.

DEcosse · 11-07-2009, 08:37 PM

ahh - it's a remote start output? Not just the interlocked power to the start switch?
I guess if there is a button on the remote for 'start' function, that will tell you.
OK - then in that case, you will need to leave the link between 3 & 5 or you won't have any starter power.