Triumphrat

blackEdouT955i

anyone know of lowering links or fork straps for the 04 955i daytona? i cant seem to find them anywhere.

DEcosse

http://www.whaccessories.com/TriumphAccessories.htm

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009

MQracing

Hi Decosse:

I've often thought of getting a lowering kit... the reference you provided sez the kit lowers the rear by 40mm... which could be a good thing for me since I am somewhat vertically challenged.... can just get the ball of my foot barely down on my Daytona (04)....

but... what I wonder about or am concerned with... is don't you then have to lower the forks through the triple trees? and doesn't that change the rake and trail of the front end? Any experience here? Any advice?

thanks,

Mike

blackEdouT955i

yes u do have to lower the forks but not through the trip tree, they make little straps that you simply compress the forks with, atleast thats how it was on all my other bikes but no it doesnt mess with the rake and trail....just makes it look low slung and pissed off

DEcosse

If you DON'T adjust the front correspondingly then you WILL have changed the rake and thus the trail; lowering the rear end will change the rake angle - it will be less acute; this means the trail will be longer and the bike will be slower to steer.

So in order to keep the geometry the same, you need to lower the front by same amount to retain the same head angle (rake) as previously

Note that you don't actually 'lower' them in the trees, you raise them (raising the forks through the triples, or conversely lowering the triples on the forks )

The result is that your bike's geometry will be approximately the same - same rake & trail, a little shorter wheelbase and lower C of G.
The downside is your ground clearance during cornering

Here's an article I authored that helps explains the relationship between rake & trail
That was written from a perspective of the rear end remaining constant and how changing the rake angle affects things.
Here you would be starting by changing the rake angle when you lower the rear, then 'recovering' it by adjusting the fork height accordingly

I'm sorry man - that is simply most ridiculous thing I have ever heard

Regardless of how you raise or lower the bike it WILL mess with the rake and hence the trail.

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009

DEcosse

One absolutely free method you can use to lower the rear end on the SSSA bikes, is just to rotate the eccentric hub by 180 degrees.

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009

Erickex

Love the idea of the free method DEcosse. Is it a significant amount it lowers the rear by?

I take it I will have to remove a link or two.

DEcosse

Shouldn't have to change chain length at all (unless you want to try & get the absolute minimum height)
Let's say that the axle is at the 180 deg level (measured fore-aft on a line through the center of the swing arm from pivot to hub): rotating eccentric in one direction will put the axle above the horizontal center line of the swing-arm, while the opposite direction will place it below - but the resultant tension on the chain will be the same whether rotated plus or minus by same angle off 180.

Note that you will likely have to shorten your side-stand if you go this route!

Also make sure your rear pre-load is set correctly and not overly stiff - if you don't have adequate sag for your weight, the bike will sit artificially higher than even spec intent.

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009

bradtx

blackEdouT955i, The straps you speak of are solely used in drag racing, including magic mile events to limit the amount of front wheel travel. This in turn limits the amount of energy the front springs exerts, helping to keep the front wheel closer to the ground.

In any other riding application this modification is detrimental and possibly dangerous.

Brad

Centaur

Very tight and steep U-turn onto a main road so had to stop. I could not get both feet on the ground and had great difficuly getting out onto a busy road. Felt a fool too as cars were queueing up behind me. I really need to lower my 04 Daytona. Can anyone give me some more info on rotating the eccentric hub please? No mention of the hub being eccentric in the Haynes.