Triumphrat

Tonatron · 11-01-2009, 02:25 AM

Hi, (my first post!)

I just purchased a 2002 Daytona 955i. Its a bit of a lean forward and a stretch to reach the handlebars... Best modification for something that will be easier on the wrists?

Thanks,
L.

bradtx · 11-01-2009, 09:42 AM

L, There are some aftermarket riser bars that can help. LSL comes to mind and I can check with a friend to see if he still has a pair available.

If the is your first sportbike with low bars try to use your abs more for body support. This will take some weight off your arms and give better feel of the road.

Brad

drakewn · 11-01-2009, 09:59 AM

convertibars

DEcosse · 11-01-2009, 12:28 PM

Note that you will be limited in how much you can raise them before you start to create some interference with the fairing; so consider what your limitations there might be.

Here's another couple of choices:
Both expensive but really nice technical solutions with adjustability in all planes, and with great aesthetics too.

ABM MultiClip

Gilles Variobar

.

JohnD · 11-01-2009, 01:39 PM

"try to use your abs more for body support."

Who do you think I am, Mr. Six Pack?

MQracing · 11-03-2009, 08:18 AM

bradtx's advice of using your abs is really good advice... though it may initially seem challenging and you might think your not "fit" enough to pull it off... your body will adjust...

after I crashed my 04 955i I went with the LSL top tree--- which allows you to use "normal" bars.... I then fitted a pair of superbike bars which were much taller and did not have any stretch to reach them...

but experience with this setup quickly informed me that it was much less than ideal. It made for a very upright riding position and the problem with that is that the seat is not made for putting all your body weight on it... and the other thing I noticed was that the weight distribution of putting 200 pounds much more upright and further back (as opposed to the stock ergonomics) changed the chassis dynamics and not for the good.

Long story short.. it was terribly uncomfortable... I always found myself sliding forward more than ever before... and putting all my weight on the seat (which wasn't designed to carry all your body weight) was just not optimum at all...

think of a 10 speed bicycle... where the seat\handlebar ergos by design are intended to get weight off of the saddle and distribute it more over the length of the bike... compare that say to an old English three speed bicycle which was intended to be an upright seating postion.... but notice that the English 3 speed had a sprung saddle whereas the 10 speed saddle has no intentional suspension....

I don't think you want to get all of or most of your body weight over the seat on your 955.

What I found works for me is I kept the LSL top tree and then installed a pair of Tomaselli adjustable clubman bars..... these are a bit higher than the stock clip ons but not by so much... and they do have a fair amount of stretch forward...

and now the bike handles much better.... and my ass hurts a whole lot less than when I was more upright....

MSL

Brit in DC · 11-03-2009, 07:42 PM

Don't worry too much about not having a six pack, you don't have to take all of your weight off your wrists and you can help to support you weight by gripping with your knees. You'll find that with a controlled amount of weight on your wrists, you'll get better feedback and therefore control than if you have no weight on them at all. I suffer from pins and needles in my hands through too many years holding power tools, I only got my Daytona a few weeks ago and was worried how my wrists and hands would fare. The vibration doesn't set my pins and needles off as much as many other bikes I've ridden, including a super smooth six cylinder Honda. To start with I had to concentrate on how much weight I was putting on my wrists, but after only 600 miles it's second nature. I'm sure you're going to love your Daytona, I owned a bike shop in England for 12 years and got to ride a lot of bikes, none more rewarding or enjoyable than a 955. The Daytona has relatively quick steering but still feels planted and stable, the brakes are superb, it's insanely fast and oh.......it's got bags of character. Also, riding it is a way more entertaining way to firm up your abs than going to the gym!.

Tonatron · 11-04-2009, 06:11 AM

Thanks guys for the encouragement :-D I took a big step up from a small jap bike (CBR250R, which requires leaning forward and gripping with your knees too btw) and was quite surprised at how much further forward I have to lean. Really the Daytona is a bit big for my height, reaching the ground with my feet is not 100% easy... but just passable for the safety point of view...

Anyway, I didn't realise until after the delivery of the bike that the LH bar was bent from a drop... its about 1/2" closer to my body than the undamaged RH bar! So I need to do something with the handlebars soon anyway (riding with bodgy handlebar is hardly re-assuring).

Will keep you posted,

Thanks again :-D

And thanks for the all the links to aftermarket clip-ons, etc. Some of them look really good :-D

How do you think a pair of Triumph Sprint handlebars would go?

And DEcosse, yeah I see what you mean about the fairing clearance, not much room there! But I think maybe an extra 1/2" would make it easier on the wrists...

pumpman · 11-04-2009, 09:54 AM

Actually, I think you'll find it's not your abs, but lower thighs and back muscles that are doing the work...abs pull the other direction.

DEcosse · 11-04-2009, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loonatron

.... How do you think a pair of Triumph Sprint handlebars would go?...

Sprint bars won't work - different diameter forks

Quote:

Originally Posted by loonatron

.... Really the Daytona is a bit big for my height, reaching the ground with my feet is not 100% easy... but just passable for the safety point of view... .

If you want to consider to lower it a bit:
On the SSSA (Single Side Swing Arm) there is an eccentric hub to adjust the chain tension - by flipping this through 180 degrees, you will lower the rear end. Then raise the forks up through the triple clamps by the corresponding amount to balance out the geometry again.
Also be sure that the preload on the rear spring is not set too high - if you don't have enough sag from your own weight, then that all by itself will keep the bike up higher for you.