Triumphrat

JWD531 · 10-31-2009, 11:31 PM

I recently bought a 2003 Daytona 955i. It calls for a 14BS battery, but due to an aftermarket under the seat exhaust (which has a larger, more inconvenient fusebox), there's a 9BS battery. Unfortunately, the battery wouldn't stay charged even while riding. According to the shop, the stator is fine. They replaced a fuel couping first - after they originally thought it just wasn't gettng enough fuel pressure due to a crack in the coupling. Then it worked for a day, then they said the voltage regulator might be the problem since it was wearing down, so they replaced it. Once again, that worked forthe day, but now it won't start again. Any ideas? My gut instinct tells me that maybe it just needs the larger battery, but shouldn't even a smaller battery still be charging while I'm riding? They said that it wasn't doing that earlier. I'm not sure what to do next but I wanted to get another opinion before I let the shop waste more time fixing something that isn't the problem.

bradtx · 11-01-2009, 12:33 AM

JWD531, When it won't start, do you mean the starter won't turn the engine? Do you have a multimeter? Has this always been a problem?

Brad

JWD531 · 11-01-2009, 12:58 AM

I just got it last Saturday and it's been happening since then. I bought a new battery before even trying the old one because the person I bought it from said it needed a new one. As soon as I got the new battery in, it wouldn't start. So when I took it to the shop the first time they replaced fuel coupling. Then it wouldn't start. So next time at shop they replaced regulator. I don't have a multimeter. Before they put the regulator on, they said the battery was putting off only about 12.6-12.8V but it was over 13.5V after they replaced the regulator. I'm not sure how to tell exactly if the starter is working or not (not gonna lie, I'm still somewhat new to paying attention to how everything works), but I think I can say it sounds like it's turning over, just not kicking in the engine. Hope that helps answer your question.

DEcosse · 11-01-2009, 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWD531

.... So next time at shop they replaced regulator .... Before they put the regulator on, they said the battery was putting off only about 12.6-12.8V but it was over 13.5V after they replaced the regulator.

Need to re-examine what they are saying here:
Changing the regulator cannot change the battery voltage;
however if the measured voltage across the battery with the engine running was 12.6V before the new regulator and 13.5V after, then there may have been a problem with the old one.

Did they replace the regulator with an after-market part, or an OEM part?
Was this a Triumph dealer or just a general repair shop?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWD531

.... I think I can say it sounds like it's turning over, just not kicking in the engine. Hope that helps answer your question.

If the engine cranks normally (i.e is spinning the engine over at a good speed - does not sound labored or slow), but doesn't start, then failure to start is not down to the battery OR the charging system.

Does it make any difference whether engine is hot or cold regarding starting performance?
Compared to when the new fully charged battery was installed, does it still appear to turn the engine over at the same speed, just not starting?
When you try to start incidentally - it's important not to touch the throttle - leave it alone! On FI bikes, you should not twist the throttle when starting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWD531

... I don't have a multimeter...

You need to get one - trying to give advice to troubleshoot potential electrical problems is impossible if you can't provide data as to what is happening. Check your local autoparts store or Radio Shack - or even Sears - you can get these things super-cheap these days. Does not have to be sophisticated, as long as it reads voltage.

JWD531 · 11-01-2009, 03:08 AM

Yes, you're right about the regulator. With engine running, new regulator produced higher voltage. I will get a multimeter next time I'm out. I did try messing the throttle once only because I was curious as to the result, but I could tell it was draining the battery - I could hear it slowly losing power more rapidly. An that was before I took it into the shop the second time, so I didn't do I this last time. The temperature doesn't seem to matter. I thought it mght be due to the cold the first time, since it first wouldn't start around 9 am (about 50 degrees out) but the last. Time it wouldn't start was about 2pm and it was over 70 outside. And I haven't tried to start it again today so I don't know if I try if it would slowly drain the battery, but the last time I tried, I think t was getting less and less power the longer I tried.

bradtx · 11-01-2009, 09:24 AM

JWD531, While you're out getting a multimeter, if you don't have one, get a smart battery charger with a 2 amp setting. Because you have a battery that isn't to factory spec, you've less reserve capacity requiring the battery to be tip top before starting. A smart charger will allow you to 'connect and forget' without damaging the battery.

Does the headlamp turn off when you push the starter button?

The new regulator fixed the charging problem while the engine's running so hopefully you won't be stranded anywhere because of a dead battery.

Brad

JWD531 · 11-01-2009, 02:05 PM

Yes, the headlamp turns off when I press the starter button.

bradtx · 11-01-2009, 06:05 PM

Yes, the headlamp turns off when I press the starter button."
--JWD531

That's a good thing.

Brad

JWD531 · 11-01-2009, 06:22 PM

What exactly does that mean though?

bradtx · 11-01-2009, 06:55 PM

JWD531, It means that voltage/amperage for the starter won't be compromised by illuminating the headlamp. The headlamp cutoff relay is known to fail and I was just checking.

Brad