Triumphrat

crescen7 · 10-23-2009, 02:06 PM

2002 9551 -Got the bike about 16 months ago. Has about 22,000 miles (I've done about 10,000 of them). The bike has always been a dependable and great running vehicle.

About a month ago, it started to take several attempts for it to start when it was cold. Usually started on the third try. When warm, it would fire up instantly. I knew I was about due for a change of plugs, and figured I'd do that with the next oil change.

On one occasion, 2 weeks ago, after a heavy rain it was very difficult to start. It took about 20 minutes of grinding the starter, getting sputtering and coughing, then running very roughly, and finally smoothing out to a normal idle. It continued to run normally for the next couple of weeks.

Then, last Friday - again after being out in a heavy rain, I had starting troubles. It started once, and idled roughly for about a minute. I couldn't keep it running, and couldn't get it re-started. After wearing the battery down to nothing - I removed the battery and charged it. The following day I tried again to start it with no luck.

Knowing I was in need of new plugs, I replaced the existing with new plugs. Still wouldn't start. Tried spraying some starter fluid, thinking that there was some trapped moisture. No start, not even a serious cough or sputter.

I took it to a local shop that had done some good work on my other bikes. They said they'd worked on Triumphs in the past, and from my description, expected it to be something minor.

Yesterday, they called me and said, " You've holding only 50lbs. compression in cylinders 1 and 3, so we're not going to be able to help you." I asked if they got it started and they said there's no way to start it if it won't hold the compression, and that it's probably going to need new rings, or push-rods, or both.

This seems odd to me. When I parked the bike, it was running perfectly. Then it doesn't start, and my cylinders are shot ?

Anyone have any thoughts or similar experiences?

All comments welcome !

kredge · 10-23-2009, 02:31 PM

Maybe while you still have the bike in the shop have them do a leak down test to narrow down the problem area. This will tell you where the compression loss is occurring- valves or rings or both.
You say the shop said you might need new rings or push-rods or both- do you mean valves, not push-rods? Triumphs haven't had push rods for quite a while.
You say you parked the bike and it was running perfectly, did it sit for any length of time before you tried to start it again?

DEcosse · 10-23-2009, 02:42 PM

If it does have low compression, first thing is just to establish whether it simply needs a valve clearance adjustment before anyone speculates on rings or anything else!
So get a check on the valve clearances

crescen7 · 10-23-2009, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kredge

You say you parked the bike and it was running perfectly, did it sit for any length of time before you tried to start it again?

I parked it on a Friday evening. It got rained on Saturday and Sunday, then I tried to start it Monday afternoon.

They did say push rods, which struck me as odd, because I didn't think it had push rods - but I'm definitely not an expert. It just seems odd that I can go from running normally to major compression loss without starting.

crescen7 · 10-23-2009, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

first thing is just to establish whether it simply needs a valve clearance adjustment ...

I had the valve clearances adjusted in July. Could they have changed that much 120 days (3,000 miles) ?

DEcosse · 10-23-2009, 03:04 PM

Would not expect that - were there actually any changes at your July 'adjustment'? Who did that - are you confident in the shop that performed that?
Anytime valves are checked you should ask for the before and after (if appropriate) clearances. It may be termed 'adjusting' but actually involves measuring the clearance & if necessary, removing the shim & replacing with the required size. So you create a table of the original measurements then address what the new ones are, then a final check after installation. Not all shims would require replacement.
It's certainly not a big job to just check the clearances - vs actually re-setting them if required - so I'm simply suggesting that before you (or anyone) go pulling head off, that is a logical place to start, to at leaest confirm or eliminate as a possible cause.

crescen7 · 10-23-2009, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

Would not expect that - were there actually any changes at your July 'adjustment'? Who did that - are you confident in the shop that performed that?

I asked, they told me the one was out 3 thousandths, and the other two less than that. I didn't get a full before/after table. It was the same shop, but they now have a different mechanic.

Before I originally got the "adjustment" done, I talked with the mechanic at some length to try to get some idea of his familiarity with Triumphs. When I picked up the bike after the valve adjustment it ran well (of course it did before) I felt confident they did good work. At this point though - my confidence has waned significantly.

Go idea though to check the clearances before doing anything drastic.

kredge · 10-23-2009, 04:51 PM

The reason I suggested a leak down test is if they just did a compression test then it's just a matter of switching the fittings and hooking up a compressor to find out exactly where you're losing compression. That way you can possibly rule out rings or valves. However, if they think your bike has push rods I'd consider a different shop.

bradtx · 10-23-2009, 05:37 PM

crescen7, If you didn't even get a pop using the starter fluid it sounds electrical. If it won't start after getting wet, it sounds electrical.

Pull a plug and see if there's a spark.

Brad

drakewn · 10-23-2009, 08:16 PM

Sidestand switch?