Triumphrat

italialaw · 10-21-2009, 12:53 PM

Hello everyone,

I tried searching for my issue but could not find the answer and was hoping all of you could help.

I have a 2002 Daytona Centennial and recently installed a new Deka etx-14 battery, and the voltage regulator modification was done by the prior owner (it is my understanding that the modification is changing the gauge of the wiring from the voltage regulator).

I rode the bike two days ago and everything was fine. However, this morning I left for work and got about 1.5 miles from my house and my instrument panel started to blink intermittingly and completely go blank for a few seconds at a time. I quickly made a u-turn and rode the bike home. As I was pulling into my driveway I noticed that the engine management malfunction indicator light was illuminating on and off. I took the seat off and noticed that fuse number 2, ignition switch, 30a was melted.

This is as far as I got in my search to find the problem as I had to get to work. Any suggestions where to start first? I have read to check the wiring harnesses near the ignition switch, and also the voltage regulator. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

bradtx · 10-21-2009, 03:54 PM

italialaw, There are two possible wiring modifications for the 2002 D955i. The first is a factory recall for the wires from the stator to the R/R. The original wires are often left in the loom so easily verified near the R/R. The second one is a modification that many make. In short it involves running the output of the R/R directly to the battery.

Which modification are you referring to. I haven't done the R/R output modification, but without looking at the schematic, if it were performed on your bike, I don't think the OEM 30A (R/R) fuse would've failed as a new 30A fuse is used... corrections to arrive shortly.

An inexpensive OBDII reader can capture the codes and help out. Also, if your '02 is of early enough production it will be wired slightly different from the manual's schematic. If an early unit there won't be a relay or the tip over switch behind the fuse block.

Brad

kubbie · 10-21-2009, 04:31 PM

First off confirm everything I say by reading:

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

If the reg. modification involves anything about not using the factory wiring to connect the regulator to the battery or stator to regulator your not suposed to use the 30 amp main fuse anymore. The holder should be empty.

If the original wires and plugs are still used the problem that I always look for is thestator plug may have melted. It has happened to one of my toys on 2 separate occasions. Both times the instrament cluster started to blink on and off although the bike ran fine, for awhile. Then the bike just shut down. Had to pit and pat it to the nearest store.

Keep us posted as to what you figure out.

DEcosse · 10-21-2009, 06:16 PM

The instrument cluster speedo signal shutting down is a sign that your system voltage is dropping below a sustainable point as it had no charging capability and your bike was running off solely the battery, which would be discharging progressively being in total loss mode.
You validated this by finding fuse 2 blown.

You will need to re-charge your battery from a charger & it should be recoverable.

As to the primary problem, it sounds like it may have been related to the modification.
At this point I would suggest that your bypass the OEM fuse-panel completely and run new wires from the output of the Rectifier/Regulator assembly directly to the battery. This is similar to that shown in the thread referenced above, while still retaining your OEM Rectifier/Regulator.
You can also follow the directions in this thread

italialaw · 10-22-2009, 04:21 PM

I will be pulling off the rear body panel this weekend and will let you all know what I discover. I'm interested to see what "mod" the prior owner made.

italialaw · 10-23-2009, 08:43 AM

Decosse and others,

In doing the direct connect from the RR to the battery, am I correct that the #2 fuse (ignition switch in my owner's manual) must be reomved? If so, will the removal of the fuse affect other electrical components linked to the #2 fuse? Thanks

DEcosse · 10-23-2009, 12:11 PM

Removing the fuse 2 will not affect any other circuit - all it will do is isolate the former connector plug, which otherwise would still have battery volts on it. Since no longer connected, makes sense just to remove the fuse.

italialaw · 10-24-2009, 05:26 PM

I took the tail section off and here is what I found: the regulator rectifier appears to be stock as it looks exactly the same as the pics in the electrical system "upgrade" section. All wires from the regulator input/output and the stator output appear in good condition. One thing I did notice is the stator output plug appears to have melted inside a bit (I found a little bit of plastic goo in there). After my battery charged I placed the probes of the multimeter on my battery (red-red, black-black) and started the bike. As the bike was idling the voltage was holding steady at 13.6, but when I revved the engine the voltage dropped down to 12.5-12.6. I was under the impression that if I revved the motor and the RR was defective the voltage would continue to go up past 14, 15 and so on. About an hour after this test I hooked up my battery charger and my battery was about 70 percent. I started the bike and my battery percentage began to increase up to 100 percent.
Can someone give me some direction here? I’m assuming the stator is working because the battery was charging as the motor was running. I have not taken the left side fairing off yet to check the stator. Thank you!

DEcosse · 10-24-2009, 05:49 PM

It is typical for the battery volts to drop as you increase the RPM - this is due to a combination of the way the R/R works and the poor conductivity of the OEM circuit wiring.
You can improve this situation by connecting your R/R output directly to the battery per the mod reference above in post 4.
You will then most likely then get >14V at all rpm.

You would be advised to replace that connector on the stator connection.
The OEM 3-terminal connectors are available here - the Yazaki connectors (note that you get a matching set of male & female)
If you also get the 4 pin connector - and also one of these fuse-holders - then you can make up a small harness to connect your R/R output to your battery without having to modify your R/R at all.

italialaw · 10-24-2009, 06:20 PM

Decosse,

I am correct in assuming that the stator is working as my battery charges when the bike is running?