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Daytona Deliberations For owners and riders of Daytona 900, 955, 1000 & 1200

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Old 07-31-2009, 09:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Relay install for heated grips

Hey everyone,

I have been using heated grips on some of the colder mornings lately (yes it is winter down under) and I am continually worried about leaving them on when I park the bike at work. At home I can always charge the battery but a flat battery at work will probably need roadside service (2 stories down in a private basement car park).
I have bought a 15amp relay and was wondering what fuse/pick up point is best to tap it in, so the grips will be off unless the ignition is on.
Sorry if I have missed a thread, I have tried a couple of searches but maybe I am not looking in the right place.

Any thoughts or experience in this?
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Old 07-31-2009, 01:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Run 30 to battery plus (via a fuse);
85 & Return from grips to battery -ve
87 is output to Power for Grips
86 is from switch for grips; input for switch from any source that is on with ignition.

You can select any convenient line that is only powered when ignition is on - the power through the switch is minimal as it only powers the relay - so you can use virtually any source without compromising anything. The main power for the grips will come directly from the battery.
Just pick a wire that is convenient to your switch.
If your switch is on the left handlebar, then you can tap into the blue wire in the harness that runs up to the left bar switch (main/low; turn; horn etc) (or pick it off near the connector plug off that same harness)

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Relay install for heated grips-grips_relay.jpg  
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks DEcosse,
The switching and wiring up front is installed and ok (no visible wiring and looks factory fitted), what I planned was to install this relay alongside the existing relays close to the battery, under the seat (sorry, I should have mentioned this earlier ). Being such a small draw to power the relay, do you think it is OK to tap into any other relay that operates via the ignition? I am handy with a volt meter and soldering iron so I am sure I could find an ignition-activated wire fairly easily.

Great diagram by the way - I was wondering if the numbering differs for different relays but apparently not!
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ideally you want the switch on the coil side rather than sending the heater current through it. That would mean running the wire all the way up & back from switch to the battery end and all the way back up again for the power.
But if switch is designed to take that current, have at it I guess.
My preference would be as shown. Convention is to switch the relay coil, not the load line.

Sure, as above, any source for the relay power is fine.
Green wire on either the fall detect switch or the ignition relay is good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marks Daytona View Post
... I was wondering if the numbering differs for different relays ...
They are always the same - the other terminal that could be present is 87a - that is the Normally Closed contact
N/C is exactly that - 30 is connected through to 87a and when the relay is energized opens 87a and switches 30 to 87 instead.

You can buy relays that have built-in fuse holder for the 30 input and/or with the diode already installed.
Those are added features that make installation simpler - one stop shop so to speak.
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Spot on!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
But if switch is designed to take that current, have at it I guess.


You can buy relays that have built-in fuse holder for the 30 input and/or with the diode already installed.
My friend, you are on the ball! Yes, I bought the relay with integrated 15a auto fuse. As you say, I can clean up the wiring and take out the in-line fuse. I guess I should change the 15 a fuse for a 3amp now that I think about it....

Also, I totally agree with the preferred wiring set up and I now understand why you thought the relay would be up front, but the switch seems to be built for the current so I will take full advantage of that . I have scanned the wiring diagram they supplied to show you. Thanks again, you are clearly a wealth of knowledge.
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It will be good Mark - they weren't even using a relay at all. 3A is not huge current (but as you rightly recognize would certainly kill your battery in short order!)
As you say, eliminate the in-line fuse and use the built-in realy slot, but swapped out for a 3A.

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Old 12-02-2012, 01:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I was about to hook up my heated grips (2009 Street Triple R) and called the dealer to help me find the proper wire for the quick connect to the relay. He told me that if I hooked into any wire the computer would shut the whole system down because it detects any voltage draw change. Does he know what he's talking about?
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M/W View Post
.... He told me that if I hooked into any wire the computer would shut the whole system down because it detects any voltage draw change. Does he know what he's talking about?


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Old 12-03-2012, 04:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Does he know what he's talking about? Me thinks not!!
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help, good buddies. Got my Moose Racing heaters hooked up in accordance with your instructions and diagrams and it works great. I should have done this years ago.
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