Triumphrat

bradtx · 07-03-2009, 09:49 AM

JT, The 'third headlamp' is called a parking lamp. It and the tail lights are on when the key is moved past lock CCW.

When you get a manual, or a copy of the electrical diagram be aware that there may be some differences. So far I've discovered two regarding the tipover switch and the ignition (fuel pump) relay. Those two items aren't in the circuit for at least an early production 2002 D955i (which is what is here). The fuel pump actually works off the main power relay.

Brad

m2bueller · 07-04-2009, 01:23 PM

In the following I'm quoting from DEcosse's thread about the R/R

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

Record your battery voltage under the follow conditions
1) Ignition off, unloaded battery.
2) Ignition on, headlights on, not running
3) Bike started, running at idle

1) 12.81V
2) 12.15V
3) 12.81V.........This concerns me. I'm wondering if it's because the battery is marginal or the R/R is not charging. The fuse is known good. Can I safely pull the output wire of the R/R and check it there while the motor is running? I've been leaving the bike on a battery tender. I think I'll take it off, check the idle voltage at the terminals, take a short ride and check it again to see if it's much lower. Either way I am going to do the "direct to battery" upgrade.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

Next, do a resistance check on the stator (check at the cable connector going back towards the stator itself).
Measure between the three respective combinations of the three pins:
1-2
2-3
3-1

.8 ohms on each combo

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

Check the AC voltage output from the stator with engine running:
Leave stator disconnected from the R/R and start the engines.
With meter set to read AC Volts check
1-2
2-3
3-1.

34.1VAC
34.1VAC
34.1VAC

At least the stator is good. I've been trying to find a decent priced recommended replacement R/R on Ebay right now with little luck. SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) has my bike funds pretty tied up right now.

m2bueller · 09-13-2009, 03:49 PM

Things with this bike just keep getting stranger and stranger.
I've still got the constant low fuel and oil pressure lights.
I did the resistor test on the fuel sensor line and it is definitly NOT the sensor itself.
I pulled the wire on the oil pressure switch. The light goes out while cranking but as soon as the bike starts the light comes back on. This happens when either the sensor is connected or not.

Now here's the weirdest part. I finally got my neighbor to bring over his ODBII reader to check and see what codes it's throwing. We can't get a display from the bike. It acts like it's not even connected.

Could my ECM be the root of all my problems?

m2bueller · 09-19-2009, 11:19 AM

Anyone have any ideas on the ECU. right or wrong.
I got my speedo sending unit in this week. I'll be trying to figure out a way to get the front end off the ground while I put it in.
My bike lift won't work and I can't spend the money on a front end stand right now.

m2bueller · 09-25-2009, 10:12 AM

Well I got the speedo sending unit installed this week. I took it for a test drive. Still no speed indication the speedo reads 0.

Now I have:
Constant low fuel light. (tested good)
Constant oil indicator. (tested good)
Constant MIL light.(Can not pull any reading off of the ODBII port)
No speed indication.
The tach, horn, hi/low indicator, turn signals, neutral light all work.
I'm officially pulling my hair out on this.

Anybody got any ideas? I don't have the cash to take it to a shop. I guess my next step will be to try and find an ECU to put in it. Either that or put it on Craigslist and cut my losses.

DEcosse · 09-25-2009, 02:57 PM

Don't know what to tell you on the fuel sender other than what guidance already I've given there - you need to see if the original wiring was compromised in effort to make this work.

On the speedo - did your 'new' sender come with the drive rotor magnet? Is it properly engaged with the drive ring in the wheel?

You need to pull the codes - whether or not the speedo drive has a magnet, just plugging it in would eliminate the error from the ECM on that count.

Take it to an autozone or similar and have them pull the codes for you - you'll need to steer them to the connector plug.

Oil pressure switch goes directly to the instrument cluster (via the engine sub-harness connector)
The oil pressure sender is on the top of the crankcase (below the fuel rail) - check for continuity between the sensor connector plug and the instrument cluster connector (pin 6) - black wire.
Also, with sensor & cluster disconnected, ensure that same wire is not short to ground. Check also that with engine running, you cannot measure short across the oil pressure switch (with the connector disconnected). If it measures short (with engine running) replace the pressure switch.

m2bueller · 09-25-2009, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

On the speedo - did your 'new' sender come with the drive rotor magnet? Is it properly engaged with the drive ring in the wheel?

Yes it did and yes it is engaged. As near as I can tell it should be good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

You need to pull the codes - whether or not the speedo drive has a magnet, just plugging it in would eliminate the error from the ECM on that count.

My neighbor. who is an ASE certified mechanic came over with his ODBII reader. We couldn't get a reading at all.So we couldn't pull the codes. It acts as if it's not even connected.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

Oil pressure switch goes directly to the instrument cluster (via the engine sub-harness connector)
The oil pressure sender is on the top of the crankcase (below the fuel rail) - check for continuity between the sensor connector plug and the instrument cluster connector (pin 6) - black wire.

There is no continuity between the sensor lead and the connector at the instrument panel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

Also, with sensor & cluster disconnected, ensure that same wire is not short to ground.

Pin 6 is always shorted to ground. I chased it back as far as the intermediate connector and it is still grounded there with the motor running or not. So now I know why I have a constant oil pressure light. I'm betting the same can be said for my fuel light.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEcosse

Check also that with engine running, you cannot measure short across the oil pressure switch (with the connector disconnected). If it measures short (with engine running) replace the pressure switch.

The sensor itself reads good. IE: It shorted with a stopped motor and it opens up with the motor running.

I'm going to have to chase the wires from the ODBII connector to the ECU and see if I can figure out what is going on there.

Right now, I think it's a miracle the bike is running. I have an email into the P/O to see if he can tell me more about what his shop did.

Thanks again for some more testing paths to try.

DEcosse · 09-25-2009, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m2bueller

... There is no continuity between the sensor lead and the connector at the instrument panel .....

Is that a typo? It somewhat contradicts the next part

Quote:

Pin 6 is always shorted to ground. I chased it back as far as the intermediate connector and it is still grounded there with the motor running or not.

So I assume you meant there IS continuity between the opposite ends of that line

If it's permanently shorted to ground, is only with sensor connected?
If so try replacing the sensor - or make sure that the wire does not touch the case anywhere.

For the low fuel lever Light, that signal goes in on the Black/Green wire at pin 15 on the speedo connector - from 1/D3 on the ECM
Again check that wire to see if you have permanent short to ground on it.
For light to come on, ECM sends a 'ground' to the instrument panel.

m2bueller · 09-25-2009, 06:27 PM

Nope, It's not a typo. there is no continuity between (what should be) the ends of that lead. Pin 6 at the dash is getting a ground signal from somewhere else but it is NOT the wire coming from the oil sensor. The sensor end of the lead when disconnected from the sensor, does not short to ground, but the lead for pin 6 stays grounded. I'm starting to think about doing an end around and replacing the wire in the harness with one coming directly from the sensor.

The low fuel light is my next chasing job. I need to see if I have continuity all the way back to the ECU connector. If not, I may cut and splice in another wire directly from the output of the ECU to the dash connector.

After I get those 2 working I'll consider doing the same with the speedo leads.

The more I dig into this the more I thing there was a hack job done on the wiring harness that I can't find. It all looks like a factory harness from the outside.
I'm thinking of trying to find another harness eventually. What years are compatible with an '02 motor and ECU?

DEcosse · 09-25-2009, 06:59 PM

There is one more possible explanation for the speedo -

See this thread

There is a 'feature' in the ECM program that was extremely problematic causing speedo to read zero - this feature was subsequently disabled in later versions of the tune because of its poor functional operation.
Solution is to have a later edition of the tune 'flashed' onto the ECM.
But even with that problem, it at least works some of the time - usually after a re-start following a short ride.

To check the speedo sender, measure at the 3-pin connector:
You should have 12V at the red/orange wire (black/yellow on main harness) and you should be able to see the voltage pulse on the Pink wire (white/blue on main harness) if you rotate the wheel

Replacement harness:
Any S3 02-04 or Daytona 02-06 harness should work - the differences are essentially at the headlights so not too difficult to swap between them. Daytona would obviously be simpler, plug n play

Quote:

Originally Posted by m2bueller

...
My neighbor. who is an ASE certified mechanic came over with his ODBII reader. We couldn't get a reading at all.So we couldn't pull the codes. It acts as if it's not even connected..

Did you turn on ignition?

.