Triumphrat

99Torque · 04-12-2009, 06:58 PM

I'm having some troubles getting my 99 955 Daytona to run after messing with the ECM and uploading a new program. Basically the engine would loose a bit of power at the high end and I attributed it to the high pipe that was installed and a factory tune in the ECM. The bike hasn't run since updating the tune to the factory high pipe one.

A couple suggestions were made to isolate that there are no other issues at play and I'd like to put them to rest. One was making sure the fuel system was delivering properly and given the way the bike was running prior to the problems I doubt that's the issue. Will check into after I've had a look at the ignition system.

I replaced air filter and plugs last spring when I pulled the bike out. Things ran good then, changed the oil and got most of the season out of her. One suggestion is that the plugs have fowled after enough failed starting attempts. Again, something to follow up on after resolving the ignition system is strong.

The suggestion was as follows:

Under the clutch side cover is the ignition pickup, the gap between the end of the pickup and the trigger wheel should be 1mm +/- 0.2mm
If the gap is outside this spec the motor can be hard to start and can have problems higher in the revs.

I've torn the fairing off, not quite sure where this pickup is, the Haynes manual doesn't mention it. I've a multimeter to check ignition components but would like to track down where the 'ignition pickup' is so I can check the gap.

Any suggestions welcome.

Colin

bradtx · 04-12-2009, 09:51 PM

Colin, You'll have to remove the RHS crankcase cover to check the airgap between the sensor and the toothed wheel. You can check it electrically by following the small cable that comes out of the cover, just ahead of the clutch shaft. Follow it to the connector, unplug it and the sensor should read ~1300 ohms.

Brad

99Torque · 04-12-2009, 10:47 PM

Will the resistance be correct regardless of gap?

99Torque · 04-12-2009, 10:52 PM

Well, tore things apart today with the goal of having a look at the electrical system. The battery is sitting around 11.4 V across the posts which I'm gathering is a bit shy. When being jumped from a running car the potential reads 12.4 or so volts. Under cranking without the boost the potential drops to about 9.5 Volts (from alternator to negative post and across posts) and 11.4 or so with the boost. From what I've read here this is not enough to start the bike.

Spark is strange, sparks 3 times then nothing. Does this make any sense? Just and indication of not enough voltage? Does this regardless of whether you're boosting it or not. The battery is a factory yuasa and seems to be well charged via my electronic charger.

Thoughts? Where should I be measuring the cranking voltage?

bradtx · 04-13-2009, 01:16 AM

Colin, A fully charged battery should show ~12.4 VDC. With less voltage to begin with, the voltage drop will be greater as resistance is semi constant. Are your headlamps turning off when the starter button is thumbed?

CPS resistance can vary with airgap, but I can't remember the allowed range...something +/-150 ohms, IIRC. I haven't checked voltage drop while cranking...now on the to-do list.

I don't know why the plugs stop igniting...someone will jump in.

Brad

gazedrop · 04-14-2009, 03:17 AM

11.4 volts while cranking -ought- to be enough to start the bike voltage-wise.

No ideas on the 3 sparks then nothing issue... Do all 3 ignition circuits do this?

And as a general note, when jumping a bike from a car, the car should be OFF! (Any decent car battery has more than enough juice to crank a bike...) Working at a motorcycle shop we've seen more than a few electrical systems fried from running cars...

Sorry I don't have more info...

99Torque · 04-15-2009, 12:13 AM

Tonight I built the deal in the Haynes manual to test that the coil can drive a spark across a 6mm gap between two nails in a block of wood. Pretty simple but the bottom line was that all three coils push the spark across the gap, however, they all do it three times then stop just like the plugs do.

Moved onto testing the resistance of the coils and they all come in .4 or .5 ohms, spec is .7 to 0.9. My question is, how critical is this? Could this be the cause of the 3 sparks then nothing pattern?

I'm a bit curious as to how all three can test out of spec, it suggests that something has caused them to all fall out of spec. What could cause this?

99Torque · 04-15-2009, 12:28 AM

Woofta, checked prices online, BikeBandit is $130 per, used for $40, new from Germany 39 Euros. New ain't cheap!

99Torque · 04-15-2009, 02:57 PM

Somebody, anybody? Please...need help!

99Torque · 04-20-2009, 10:03 PM

Turns out just swapping the plugs did the deal...all the misery over thinking it was coils was not necessary! Still idles terribly to not at all...have a tuneboy...anybody have any ideas?

The EVAP system appears to be nearly absent, where is the cannister supposed to be?