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Daytona Deliberations For owners and riders of Daytona 900, 955, 1000 & 1200

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Old 04-08-2009, 01:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Recommended parts for a Tune-up?

Hello everyone! I recently purchased an '04 Daytona 955i, I love the bike and would like to give it a tune-up.

This being my first bike I would like to know exactly what is involved in a tune-up for a motorcycle and which plugs and oil you all would recommend. The bike already has a K&N air filter which I have a recharge kit for and a different exhaust (not sure which one ). She idles rough and is running rich, meaning I can smell the fuel from the exhaust. Will those flow modifications effect the Air/Fuel ratio for the bike or will the bikes computer automatically adjust for it? Not sure if I just need a tune up or if I should invest in a Power Commander or something to tune it as well. But first thing is to get it a tune-up and see.

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks in advance!

Last edited by activeseven; 04-08-2009 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 04-08-2009, 02:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by activeseven View Post
Hello everyone! I recently purchased an '04 Daytona 955i, I love the bike and would like to give it a tune-up.

This being my first bike I would like to know exactly what is involved in a tune-up for a motorcycle and which plugs and oil you all would recommend. The bike already has a K&N air filter which I have a recharge kit for and a different exhaust (not sure which one ). She idles rough and is running rich, meaning I can smell the fuel from the exhaust. Will those flow modifications effect the Air/Fuel ratio for the bike or will the bikes computer automatically adjust for it? Not sure if I just need a tune up or if I should invest in a Power Commander or something to tune it as well. But first thing is to get it a tune-up and see.

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
tune up? Modern vehicles dont require tune ups per say. You did not state how many miles it has. First thing I would do is change the oil and filter. 10/40 100% Synthetic 4T motorcycle oil. I run Repsol Syntetico in mine. Plugs would be next, but they are a bear to get to in these bikes. So dependent on the mileage??? Then if you do plugs i would cleane and recharge the K & N (they should be cleaned and recharged every 15k miles.) As for running rough and rich it all depends. These bikes are a little rougher at idle than japanese fours etc. They also seem to be a little rich at startup and warm up. also check the chain and lube it. Dont know the mileage so I cant say if the chain and sprockets need replacing.
Get it all done and enjoy!
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Old 04-08-2009, 02:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm sorry I forgot, the bike has 2,800 miles on it. Thank you for your response so far

Is this the oil you recommend?

Last edited by activeseven; 04-08-2009 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm sorry I forgot, the bike has 2,800 miles on it. Thank you for your response so far

Is this the oil you recommend?
OK! No need for anything but an good oil change! Use either an original Triumph or K&N oil filter. Oil? There are plenty of really good motorcycle oils out there - its all a matter of preference. Like I said I run Repsol Syntetico 10/40.
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Old 04-08-2009, 11:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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As for running rich, you can always check with your triumph dealer. They can retune the computer pretty easy which may help. Mine does not run near as rich and the mid range was better after the retune.

Not sure if tuneboy worked on the 955i. I know it works on more recent models, but that would allow some adjustability.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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activeseven, Do you know if it has a PCIII or a custom tune? If no PCIII I'd have the Triumph dealer load TOR (Triumph Off Road) tune to match the can. They're fairly limited, but should get close. This should take care of the over rich condition. If it has a PCIII insure the OEM base tune is loaded.

You may need to change/clean the plugs if they're fouled after the TOR tune is loaded and there's no noticeable improvement. Otherwise change the oil and filter. Do you have the owner's manual?

Brad
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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With only 2,800 miles on it, it shouldn't need much. As said before, change the oil and filter. I recommend Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil. The oil viscosity is going to depend on your climate. If you are in a hotter region (approx 86F+), 15W50 would be the way to go. If you are in a mild or cold region (approx 85F-), 10W30 is good. I use 10W30 (65F average). Although it is a debated subject, imho, there is no need to spend any more money for or time finding an oddball viscosity like 10W40; Mobil 1 synthetic can be used in motorcycles with no clutch problems. You'll need approx 3.2 Liters with an oil and filter change

The same goes with filters. I recommend Purolator Pure One #PL14610 or Fram #PH7317. They are 3/4 inch longer than a Triumph filter, allowing for more filtering, and the filter material is just as good. They cost around $6, which is half of what Triumph or K&N want. Plus, you can find them in just about any parts house.

Adding to what others have said: lube the chain and check/adjust the slack, check the tire air pressure and the rubber condition, check the master cylinder fluid levels, and check the front and rear brake pad wear (probably okay, but good to check).

It's not abnormal to smell fuel from the exhaust while the engine is cold due to the richer Fuel/Air ratio. Take a look in the mirrors next time you slam on the throttle when the engine is hot. If you see a puff of black smoke, the engine could either be carboned up from not being flogged enough, or it is running very rich. The best way to tell is to see the plugs after flogging the engine on a nice ride, but if the muffler is aftermarket it would be good to have the fuel map identified and possibly changed. A lot of this has already been said, but the other members' advice is sound stuff.
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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activeseven, Do you know if it has a PCIII or a custom tune? If no PCIII I'd have the Triumph dealer load TOR (Triumph Off Road) tune to match the can. They're fairly limited, but should get close. This should take care of the over rich condition. If it has a PCIII insure the OEM base tune is loaded.

You may need to change/clean the plugs if they're fouled after the TOR tune is loaded and there's no noticeable improvement. Otherwise change the oil and filter. Do you have the owner's manual?

Brad
Thanks Brad. It was the TOR tune I had loaded on my 2002 with the Triumph Carbon Fiber can. I still get the occasional pop from the exhaust when slowing down, but it is a great tune and gets you close.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:36 AM   #9 (permalink)
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As for running rich, you can always check with your triumph dealer. They can retune the computer pretty easy which may help. Mine does not run near as rich and the mid range was better after the retune.

Not sure if tuneboy worked on the 955i. I know it works on more recent models, but that would allow some adjustability.
Tuneboy works on all Fuel injected Triumphs.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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With only 2,800 miles on it, it shouldn't need much. As said before, change the oil and filter. I recommend Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil. The oil viscosity is going to depend on your climate. If you are in a hotter region (approx 86F+), 20W50 would be the way to go. If you are in a mild or cold region (approx 85F-), 10W30 is good. I use 10W30 (65F average). Although it is a debated subject, imho, there is no need to spend any more money for or time finding an oddball viscosity like 10W40 or 15W50; Mobil 1 synthetic can be used in motorcycles with no clutch problems. You'll need approx 3.2 Liters with an oil and filter change

The same goes with filters. I recommend Purolator Pure One #PL14610 or Fram #PH7317. They are 3/4 inch longer than a Triumph filter, allowing for more filtering, and the filter material is just as good. They cost around $6, which is half of what Triumph or K&N want. Plus, you can find them in just about any parts house.

Adding to what others have said: lube the chain and check/adjust the slack, check the tire air pressure and the rubber condition, check the master cylinder fluid levels, and check the front and rear brake pad wear (probably okay, but good to check).

It's not abnormal to smell fuel from the exhaust while the engine is cold due to the richer Fuel/Air ratio. Take a look in the mirrors next time you slam on the throttle when the engine is hot. If you see a puff of black smoke, the engine could either be carboned up from not being flogged enough, or it is running very rich. The best way to tell is to see the plugs after flogging the engine on a nice ride, but if the muffler is aftermarket it would be good to have the fuel map identified and possibly changed. A lot of this has already been said, but the other members' advice is sound stuff.
10-40 odd ball viscosity?? Its available at every motorcycle shop ive been to? i buy mine at Cycle Gear. I wouldnt run 20w50 at all, 15w50 would be fine if you live in Las Vegas and also Triumph recommends it. Back in the day it was recommended to use in worn motors. 20w50 can be too viscouse to run through oil passages and or oil jets that spray oil on piston skirts etc. Synthetic withstands higher temps than conventional oils.

This is from the 2002 955i manual.(this is the same requirement in all 955 Daytonas 98 - 07)

"Semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or 15W50 motorcycle engine oil which meets specification API SH (or higher) and JASO MA, such as Mobil1 Racing 4T.

Your Triumph Motorcycle is a quality engineered product which has been carefully built and tested to exacting standards. Triumph Motorcycles are keen to ensure that you enjoy optimum performance from your machine and with this objective in mind have tested many of the engine lubricants currently available to the limits of their performance.

CAUTION: Triumph high performance fuel injected engines are designed to use semi or fully synthetic motorcycle engine oil which meets specification API SH (or higher) AND JASO MA.

Do not add any chemical additives to the engine oil. The engine oil also lubricates the clutch and any additives could cause the clutch to slip.

Do not use mineral, vegetable, non-detergent oil, castor based oils or any oil not conforming to the required specification. The use of these oils may cause instant, severe engine damage.

Ensure no foreign matter enters the crankcase during an oil change or top-up."

Last edited by alexofc69; 04-10-2009 at 01:06 AM.
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