Triumphrat

BadMiker

Anybody able to give some advice on jetting and set up for a 95 S3 appreciated? I'm fitting a K&N in the standard airbox and keeping the standard zorsts.

I've heard conflicting advice;
125 main jets on the outside, 130 on the middle?
Lose the snorkels, foam pipes and side pods of the airbox and raise the needles to the top clip?
Spacers under the needles?
Air screw settings?

Any help appreciated! I dont want to have to take out the carbs any more times than absolutely necessary!

Thanks

Mike

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I have a 95 S3. I bought a Dynojet kit and followed their instructions for an aftermarket filter (K&N) and stock exhausts - I believe 125 across all three and needle in 3rd clip position?? Air screw 1 1/2 turns?? Not sure what was done to the airbox but it does not have the side stuff - if someone can tell me how to post a picture I can show you what was done. I will check the Dynojet instructions tonight when I get home and let you know tomorrow what they recommended. It runs really well. No compaints - very smooth across the entire power band. Not sure how it would run at other settings because I don't really want to tear into the carbs again. Maybe this winter.

Dave94Super3

I have a '94 super 3 with K&N and Dynojet - had it about a year. Unfortunately for me the the needles are worn out so will be getting a new kit fitted. My investigations on setting up this have found that DO NOT remove the snorkels air box or anything else on the intake side. Something about air velocity - just fit the kit and get it professionally set up on a dyno. I've been mucking about on mine for months and its still not right. will be going straight to a tuner when I get it back from out of the shipping container where its been for the last 5 months!!
Good luck...

BadMiker

Thanks for the replies, 5 months in a container, have you been taking it round the world with you or something?!

See; conflicting experiences with the airbox. Maybe removing airbox bits can be counteracted by jetting? My experiences with taking bits off the airbox has been to ruin the midrange, but fiddling with the air screws and needle heights should sort that?

I'd be very grateful if you could check the Dynojet instructions. I've heard that the airscrews should be set 2.5 turns out and the needles moved *above* the highest clip setting.

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BadMiker

Thanks for the replies, 5 months in a container, have you been taking it round the world with you or something?!

See; conflicting experiences with the airbox. Maybe removing airbox bits can be counteracted by jetting? My experiences with taking bits off the airbox has been to ruin the midrange, but fiddling with the air screws and needle heights should sort that?

I'd be very grateful if you could check the Dynojet instructions. I've heard that the airscrews should be set 2.5 turns out and the needles moved *above* the highest clip setting.

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I found my dynojet instructions - but forgot to bring them to work. However, I remember that the jets were 120 across, the needle clip was in the fourth ring from the top, you drilled a new hole in the slide and that the airscrews were turned 2 1/2 out - I guess that is it. It did come with new emulsion tubes which I installed. Again, the bike is running great - smooth power delivery across the range. I should get it dyno'd as I have two free certificates from K&N. Now if I can just figure out the brakes.

I found my dynojet instructions - but forgot to bring them to work. However, I remember that the jets were 120 across, the needle clip was in the fourth ring from the top, you drilled a new hole in the slide and that the airscrews were turned 2 1/2 out - I guess that is it. It did come with new emulsion tubes which I installed. Again, the bike is running great - smooth power delivery across the range. I should get it dyno'd as I have two free certificates from K&N. Now if I can just figure out the brakes.

I have a Two Bros 3-into-1 with the snorkles removed from the airbox. I have yet to jet the carbs correctly. the best I have done as of yet was main jet - 125's, factory neddle near the middle, & open cell foam blocking the inlets to the airbox. I had to remove the snorkles to make room for an electric shift unit. My problems appeared after 6K service (check valve clearances) several years ago (2K). This was done before the airbox and exhaust mods. I am going to do a compression and leak-down this weekend to see if I have a tight valve. Also check valve and ignition timing. not sure why the foam in the airbox made for smooth (although slow excel to 10500. Without the foam have tried many settings with the best (very lean with black smoke but extrem t-response) not sure of all settings done by shop.

I think I am going to try a DynoJet ket w/ 125's, 127's or 130's and take it to another shop with a dyno & air-fuel monitor.