Triumphrat

Mattwjeep · 03-22-2009, 04:46 PM

2002 Daytona 955i CE Electrical Problem

Looking for some help, Went out for a ride the other day and stopped for gas and bike wouldn’t start. It was turning over but I could tell that the back was lacking juice to turn over the starter properly. After getting it towed back home and looking into the fuse box I noticed that the Ignition Fuse (30) was melted but not blown!? Tested the battery and it seems to be fine (Showing 12.2V) when bike is off. I then charged the battery, changed the fuse and bike started right up. While running tested the battery and it was showing 13.3V (Seemed a little low, is this normal??? What are the specs for running Voltage for this bike?)

Left it running for about 5 min and then turned it off and let it stand another 5min, tried starting it again and bike wouldn’t start.(same problem as b4) Pulled the Ignition Fuse (30) and it was Extremely HOT (What does this mean?) From looking at the manual it seem like the problem is the Alternator, Alternator relay, or battery but i have no clue. What is going on with this Bike, and how can I pinpoint it?? Bike only has 5500 miles on it; any help would be greatly appreciated.

DEcosse · 03-22-2009, 09:21 PM

Matt - welcome to TriumphRat.net - I'm sorry your first visit (or at least post) has to be one of reporting a problem.

Please check this thread - I have just added a trouble-shooting guide as a prologue.

Also please note whether this recall ssue has been addressed on your 02.

Mattwjeep · 03-23-2009, 12:32 AM

After reading into a few of the post I went ahead and make the modifications. The bike is now putting out 14.3 when the bike is running and the 30 amp fuse is not getting hot, due to the addition of a second ground. This is a huge improvement considering I was only getting 13.4 before I made the changes. I’m still wondering if the Engine light will come of with these modifications.

I am also having problems with the fuel light coming on and off right after I fill it up. Could this cause the check engine light to come on??

DEcosse · 03-23-2009, 02:41 AM

Fuel light should not generally cause an MIL - however a bad sender will actually trigger one if the ECM sees it either open or short
They are particularly problematic on these bikes.

You can unplug the sender and connect a 47 ohm resistor (commonly available value you can get any electronic store e.g Radio Shack) in its place. This will simulate a mid-full tankcondition.
If it 'cures' the error, then you know the sender is the culprit.
It may still need 3 warm-up cycles to reset the MIL

On your charging situation - good news that the mod helped your condition - did you validate that the recall harness had been installed?

Mattwjeep · 03-23-2009, 01:30 PM

Still trying to figure that our. I just bought the bike and the previous owner has been a big help as I have called him a few times to ask general questions about his modifications. He never mentioned a recall on the harness to my knowledge. I was reading the link you sent b4 but I am not fully understanding what its explaining. What was the recall? and is this going to cause a problem with the modification I did?

DEcosse · 03-23-2009, 01:46 PM

The recall is outlined in post #3 (I gave direct link to that specific post above) .

You can recognize whether it has been done by looking to see what the cable between the stator output and R/R input looks like.
The one at the R/R end probably more accessible.
The original cable was part of the composite wiring harness, so on leaving the connector to the R/R, the three wires should disappear into the main harness assembly.
If it has been replaced then there should be a new, completely separate stand-alone cable that is only tied to the original harness by plastic ties. Some dealers cut off the connector plugs on the original harness so they could not be confused & re-used; others left them in place, so that is definitely a tell-tale sign if there is a second unconnected 3 pin plug in the same vicinity!
So look for either another three pin connector plug or a group of 3 wires that have been cut.
Whether or not the recall harness was done, it will have no bearing on the mod which is on the output side of the R/R - the recall is for the input side of the R/R.
However you will continue to tax your overall system with the smaller wire for the original harness, so best to be replaced.
Call your dealer with your VIN and they can probably check to see whether it has been done (or not) from Triumph records.

Mattwjeep · 03-23-2009, 02:47 PM

Ok, that makes a lot of sense now. When I was doing the modification last night I noticed that there was three wires cut and taped next to the R/R connection. I thought for a second that this was where you would connect an alarm system. No question about it, the new wiring harness has been installed. That would explain why the wiring system seems to have a lot of electrical tape all over the place. The next step would be moving the R/R in a better location and making sure the fins are horizontal instead of perpendicular giving it a better air flow through the fins. My 2002 Daytona doesn’t have a vent hole like yours, where would you suggest I locate the R/R?