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Old 12-10-2012, 09:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Emergency ECU Bypass switch

Hello all,

This topic has been covered in other threads but I'm 'spreading the net a little wider' as I have to get to the bottom of this problem to preserve my sanity.

It's a 2007 EFI Speedmaster we're dealing with. The issue has already been discussed in Forchetto's thread:
http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...start-mod.html

but to cut a long story short there is a an issue with these twins where should the battery voltage drop by the tiniest amount the ECU shuts the bike down. The result? Key in, lights on, fuel pump whirs into action and then upon hitting the starter button I receive nothing but a depressing click. It's fine during the summer but as soon as the temperature drops it becomes a reoccurring problem. A pain when at home as having to jump start, potentially hazardous if I find myself stranded in the middle of nowhere in winter temperatures.

Forchetto has done stirling work in coming up with a solution on the Bonneville by modifying the starter relay so that it has an emergency start button. As a Speedmaster owner though the starter relay is tucked up under the tank meaning that access is, of course, restricted. There's talk of installing a possible 'bypass switch' which would effectively do the same job but as I'm no electrical expert I need some guidance.

Anyone out there experienced the same issues or know how the by pass switch would be installed? I know a lot of people store their bikes for the winter and so may not have come across this but I ride all year round and would like to do so safe in the knowledge that I won't end up stuck out in the wilds with frostbite setting in!

Thanks in advance...
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Have the battery and charging rate tested. If the battery is so low, in a emergency you could pull off the right hand side cover,exposing the starter solenoid, there are 2 heavy leads 1 from battery and 1 to the starter, short these together by using a screwdriver.
Alternately you could wire up a push button to the feed on the solenoid.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Huggy. When the issue first reared its head I had a new battery installed, checked the charging and increased the idle speed just to try and cover all the angles and yet have had to jump start it twice today!
On the one hand it's good to know that it's a shared problem (and not just one of those mysteries that crops up from time to time requiring hours of diagnosis) but as you can understand its a pain having to freeze off your hands before you've even ridden a mile!
Good to know that some problems can still be solved with a good old fashioned 'just stick a screwdriver in it!'


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Old 12-10-2012, 04:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just out of curiosity, will repeated use of the 'screwdriver shorting the solenoid' method have any adverse effects on the bikes electrics? (I suspect I may have to use it frequently!).


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Old 12-10-2012, 05:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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In that case I would fit a starter push button, take your supply from the heavy battery supply lead on the starter solenoid, fit a fuse in line to the push button, the return wire to the small red and white wire on the solenoid, use a scotch lock to join, do not disconnect the red & white wire from the solenoid. You will be able to start as normal, but when you have the problems push the button to start. Position the button away from your legs so you don't activate it when running. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just a thought, what engine oil are you using in winter,thicker the oil higher the voltage drop across the battery when starting from cold
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Good question Huggy, I had it serviced just as winter approached so I'm not sure what was used. What would you recommend?

Regarding the screwdriver suggestion, is this an emergency only answer? (Does shorting the solenoid cause damage/ electrical components need replacing?). As you can tell electrics is not my area of expertise, but as my dad always said 'the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!'


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Old 12-11-2012, 06:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Now you have opened a can of worms, everybody has an opinion of oil & what is the best for their bike, I use a semi synthetic oil & change it every 3,000 miles. I believe the semi synthetic is better for the clutch & I can't see any point in wasting money on fully synthetic.
The first number is the starting velocity ie I run on 10w 40.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Severeign View Post
Just out of curiosity, will repeated use of the 'screwdriver shorting the solenoid' method have any adverse effects on the bikes electrics? (I suspect I may have to use it frequently!).


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No I can't see any problems as long as the starter is turning over swiftly and the battery voltage doesn't drop below 9 volts. Don't be timid shorting out the soleniod
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks Huggy, Gung Ho spirit it is then!
I'm going to look into the map tomorrow to see whether there is an alternative with a voltage threshold that's a little less sensitive. Let's see where that leads...


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