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Cruisers - America, Speedmaster Cruiser chat for America and Speedmasters

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Old 12-12-2012, 08:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Okay, shorted the solenoid to start it this morning (worked a treat although it sounded like it struggled a little), rode it to the local dealer who updated the map, they brought it out, started it up, all going to plan. Went in to pay, came back out and... Click! Damn battery failed to fire again. Getting very weary of this now, I love riding the Speedy but seriously considering a change of bike. As someone who rides all year round I need something reliable which this most definitely isn't!


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Old 12-12-2012, 08:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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shorting with a screwdriver can damage the threads on the solenoid when it arcs. it is better to install a pushbutton. My son Dan did and no more problems since. I wish the programmer that thought up the voltage setting had to ride one that way.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:38 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Amen to that Cliff! Any chance of a diagram/ photo (detailed guidance?!) of the button set up? If I'm going to continue on the Speedmaster (despite the starting troubles I'm loathed to give it up) I'm obviously going to have to get that sorted out and need to know where to start.


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Old 12-12-2012, 09:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm sorry you are still having problems,taking it to dealer for the map update could have lowered the battery voltage during the update. Shorting the starter solenoid to start is to see if you had any other issues than the computer, let me know how you go on in the next few days, if OK, fit the push button, guidance I've given on the 10th 4.41. Regard Nick

Last edited by huggy39; 12-12-2012 at 09:47 AM. Reason: date
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Nipped out of work early and took the bike up the motorway and back (I now can't feel my hands but its all in a good cause!).

The battery should now be topped up, new map, let's see what the morning brings. Fingers crossed (or at least they will be once they've warmed up!).


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Old 12-12-2012, 01:41 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Please report your battery voltage with ignition off, then on with the ignition/headlight on and how quickly/by how much it drops over the next 30 secs or so.
I suspect you just need a new battery - the numbers will help to determine that.
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks Decosse, I'll get the info ASAP.

Worth pointing out that If the answer does come back as needing a new battery that will be the third battery in the space of a year.

I bought the bike in November 2011, previous owner had only put 2000 miles on the clock. About 3 weeks after buying it the dreaded 'click' was heard for the first time. Breakdown guy turned up, ran a test on the battery and said it needed replacing. Replaced that battery and rode through the winter with the occasional jump start on severely cold mornings.

The bike ran just fine through the warmer months but as the temperatures began to drop the problem raised its head again. Had the current battery installed by a trusted mechanic (who had the bike to try and diagnose the problem) about 6 weeks ago.




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Old 12-12-2012, 03:23 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Severeign View Post
that will be the third battery in the space of a year.
Where the previous batteries commissioned properly?, make sure the next one is. Instructions should come with the battery, at least with Yuasa, if not this is a write up about it:

* Commissioning errors are aggravated by the fact that these batteries are delivered dry-charged with their own individual special acid cellular pack, the acid being of a higher concentration & density than standard battery acid. This acid has to be allowed to trickle from itís special pack into the battery slowly, to avoid trapping bubbles, then the battery has to stand while the acid is fully absorbed before being given a pre-delivery 30 minute charge. All of this takes a good hour, an irritating delay both for the impatient customer & the dealer trying to satisfy him while also attending to other things. The inevitable tendency is to short-cut the correct procedures & this results in an under-par battery performance & an early warranty claim, usually at the expense of the motorcycle importer or distributor. Field studies by motorcycle manufacturers have shown that around half of all MF battery warranty claims arise from errors in commissioning procedure.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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This prompts a question in my mind....if you can start it with less than the voltage the ECU wants to see, why do they have it like that in the first place? What is the reason they make it so the bike won't allow it to be started when under that voltage?
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:36 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hi Forchetto, the only answer I can give is 'to the best of my knowledge'. They were both commissioned and installed by the same local motorcycle mechanic (someone who I may end up avoiding in the future depending on how this all plays out).
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