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Changing the pilot jets

6K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  Verde 
#1 ·
I needed to change from 42 to 45 pilot jets on my America and didn't want to get involved with removing my tank and pulling the carbs out. Since I've changed the screws to hex to hold my float bowls I figured it would be an easy job to just change the jets by removing the float bowls and getting at them from the bottom.

Actually that worked pretty well on the right hand carb. It was easy enough to remove the float bowl, then pull the pilot jet and install the new one.

On the left hand side things got a bit more complicated. There isn't enough room between the transmission case and the bottom of the carburator to get a normal screw driver between them to remove the pilot jet, even my very smallest screwdriver. I checked a number of hardware stores and auto stores and no one had a tool that would work.

I finally ended up cutting a small 3/16 flat screw driver down to 1 1/2 inches long. That allowed me enough length to get between the transmission case and the underside of the carb.

I'd really like to know how others change pilot jets, as I think I'll be changing mine again when I get a set of Bub pipes and if I can simplify this job I'd certainly be happy.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
To change pilots, I pull the carbs. Every effing time.

It really helps to be able to see what you are doing, as the pilot jets sit at the top of a pretty narrow & deep silo (or bottom of a narrow & deep well, with the bowls off & carbs are up-side down).

It also helps to have a perfectly sized driver blade.

I've been in the carbs alot & I personally would not even consider changing pilot jets without first pulling the carbs.
 
#3 ·
I tried pulling the carbs off a while back and ran into problems. It just seems quicker and easier to do the jets with the carbs in place. With my new home made tool it takes about an hour to change jets my way. How long does it take if you have to remove the carbs ?
 
#4 · (Edited)
About 45 - 60 minutes from start to finish, depending...

On mine, the solo rack & seat come off first...that takes less than a minute.
Next, the tank console...3 bolts & a connector disconnect, maybe a minute or two.
Remove the side panels & cheese graters, less than 5 minutes.
Hook up the drain hose & drain both carbs, a few minutes.
Remove the tank bolt, less than a minute.
Disconnect the fuel line, slide the tank back & remove the vent hose, & place the tank down, maybe another minute.
Remove the Uni pods, about a minute each, at most.
Now I have clear access to the carbs.
Cut my zip-tie carb brace, less than a minute.
Disconnect the TPS line at the inline connector; the first time is a bitch, after that it gets easier, especially if the lock tab is trimmed.
Remove the carbs from the boots & the boots from the manifolds, less than 5 minutes.
Depending upon what I'm doing, remove the throttle cables, or not. A couple of minutes if I do disconnect.
Now I have complete access to the carbs to visually check or change whatever I want inside the bowls, & don't have to futz around with that one challenging port-side rear inboard float bowl screw. You know which one I'm referring to...

Really, I find it much easier to see the pilot screw heads this way.

Reassembly is of course the reverse.

The carb boots can be a challenge sometimes, however reinstallation goes much smoother with a shot of silicone spray (wipe the excess) in the boots.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Easiest way is to pay someone else to do it!! LOL

Problems?? What problems did you run into tell us maybe we can help you out?? Idk if there is really a right or wrong way if it works it works but if you run in to trouble you might have to pull them off anyways so could be one of those what if type of deals!
 
#6 ·
It's been a while since I tried to remove the carbs, but as I remember there was a problem trying to get the throttle cables out of the bracket that holds them. I spent an hour or so trying to get them out and finally gave up.

B02S4, the challenging port-side (ex navy?) rear inboard float bowl screw is easy peasy if you go after it from the starbard side.

And if anyone has any suggestions for an easy way to unhook the throttle cables I'm all ears. I have billet intakes and pods, so the rest of the carb removal would be simple enough.
 
#10 ·
Ya, main jets are a piece of cake. One of the things I like about the America is how easy it is to work on.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I've said it a few times around here, the ratcheting bit drivers are awesome. I've done jet changes and needle adjustments on a few different bikes with the carbs in place. Definitely worth taking the carbs off once or twice, but once you're familiar with them adjustments in place are the way to go in my opinion. Needle adjustments on the America are a bit tight on the left carb but doable. Careful not to drop the screws. I often have to pop off the pods to help line up the needles depending on what carbs I'm tampering with.

Edit, picture change:

My bit driver, short and long 3mm hex bits, and some different bits for jet changes and screw adjustments.

Edit: and another tip about the extended bits: perfect for idle screw adjustments. Lightly seat the screw, and without moving your head, count the edges as they rotate though the sight line while you back the screw out. Not sure if I'm explaining this well... I'll try to get a pic.

i.e. sight down left edge:
 
#13 ·
Verde,
I went looking for the extended hex bits but couldn't find any, which is why I had to make my own tool.
Instead of counting the edges on your hex bits you might want to use some nail polish and mark each side with a different color. It makes it easier to identify exactly how far you've turned it. I did that with the knurled knob for the Air/fuel screw. It has two indentations on opposite sides and I used a dab of white nail polish on one side and red on the other, so now it's easy to see how far I'm turning them.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, I got lucky and the extended 3mm came in a random bit set I picked up. Haven't seen that bit set on the market anywhere since either, and I've looked too. I have been known to tape a regular bit in a 1/4" nut driver bit to get just the right length odd-job bit. Good thinking on the nail polish for those with the aftermarket screws(and would work on the d-tool as well).
 
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