Triumphrat

KAH24 · 04-01-2005

Guys & Ladies,

I've broken in many new bikes, but they've all been water cooled sportbikes or Harleys. I know the basics--no full throttle acceleration, run up and down in terms of speed--below a certain RPM range, don't drone along at 55 mph at one speed, don't let it sit and idle forever, and even change the oil/filter prior to the 500 mile recommended point.

That said, I bought my new Thruxton with 2 miles and took a day off from work and rode it for a little over 100 miles during the first day with a few rest stops for lunch, bike shop, etc., along the way.

My dealer told me to stay below 3000 rpms for the first 500 miles. I appreciate his advice, as I'm new to Triumph; however, 3000 rpm is barely 55mph.

The owners manual says 3/4 throttle for 500 miles. I won't give her redline until 500 miles, but c'mon--my air cooled Harleys had the same break in procedure recommendation (55-60 mph for 500 miles).

Coming from the perspective of Japanese & Italian sportbikes (water cooled), my belief is that I can run her a bit harder. At the same time, I know that air cooled motors are a bit more "primitive" than the nickel/silicon bored higher tech motors of sportbikes.

Bottom line, what would you guys with experience recommend?

Thanks,

Karl

dialysis · 04-01-2005

i just did the basics, as you mentioned.

we had a thread a bit back and most did as well; with a few crank yankers recommending the gonzo break in

vikingdrvr · 04-01-2005

I guess I'm of the 'gonzo' break-in school, especially for air cooled engines. It's a definite must for aircraft engines! My dealer suggested running it 'like you stole it'! He said "you can't break it" and if somehow you do...I'll fix it for you. He talked about how tight the engines are new and don't use full syn oil until the break-in was totally complete...as many as 4K miles.

I was already planning to run it hard and it was good to hear the dealer felt the same way. Mine saw 7K in top gear the first day, several times. Wouldn't quite make it to redline but it will now, quite easily!

I know there will be lots of you that disagree with these methods but they've always worked for me. I'm still thrashing mine and it's running better and better all the time.

Mancha · 04-02-2005

Hard to imagine keeping it under 3000 RPMs. I've been running mine at 4000 during the break-in. My dealer recommended that I push it a little; that he'd run it hard during the dyno set-up, and that I should continue to.

cafestyle · 04-02-2005

KAH here's the gospel:
Many myths surround engine performance and the run-in procedure is one that deserves some clarification.

Air cooled engines differ from liquid cooled in that they experience greater temperature variations, therefore their engineering clearances are built "looser" to accomodate the increased thermal expansion of the metals. Sounds high tech, but its basic stuff when you think about it. Greater clearances mean less combustion efficiency and increased oil consumption.

Nickel silicon bores are not new technology and have their own problems. Two strokes have run with plated bores for 20+ years. If by chance damage occurs there is no reconditioning options, and you will be up for huge expense to replace a cylinder assy. Believe me that it can also chip and flake off. It offers no performance advantages over traditional cast iron liners, except for perhaps saving weight.

The reason we avoid prolonged periods of constant RPM during run-in is that we don't want the bores to glaze. Glazing is exactly the meaning of the word - the cylinder takes on a polished effect like the surface of glass which doesn't allow the rings to seal. Sounds crazy, but you need a roughness (which can be measured) in the cylinder wall both for sealing of the compression rings, and also for controlling oil spiralling up into the combustion chamber. More than anything what is needed is to load the engine so the rings bite in and conform to the shape of the cylinder. All other mating parts such as camshaft to follower, big ends, timing gears etc also need to "bed in" to each other. Where round parts appear round, they actually may have "facets" which need to wear in.
If you were to test your oil after 1000k's what you would find is high metal content. This is a natural process of the mating surfaces becoming compatible. Obviously you must change the oil and filter to remove these particles which would otherwise destroy your engine!
So, to run in hard or easy?? My friend when you think over the reasons for running in an engine there are positives for both methods. I have seen both achieve the same end result!
Personally I kept my engine under 5000RPM for the first 1000k's, and then increased it sporadically to 6500 up to 1500k's. After 1500k's the whole bike including suspension has really loosened up to its full potential.
Full synthetic oil is so good it will not allow the parts to bed-in, because it's too slippery! Run mineral oil for the first 5000k's then change onto the good stuff for long engine life.
Amen!
:razz:

Jeff-G · 04-03-2005

Cafestyle has some good points. My personal belief is that the enginneers and designers spend alot of time and money testing. I try to follow their recommendations pretty close. That being said, I also believe the have to cover their butts so they tend to be a bit conservative. My experience has been, Use common sense, nothing extreme for the first 500 miles, then gradually increase over time. I believe it takes at least 1000-1500 miles to break everything in. Change oil at or before factory recommended points and use quality parts. I have to say, it's tough to wait some times, but its worth it. This is the best, most fun to ride bike I've had the pleasure to ride. Everytime I saddle up I can't stop smiling!

Jeff-G · 04-03-2005

Cafestyle has some good points. My personal belief is that the enginneers and designers spend alot of time and money testing. I try to follow their recommendations pretty close. That being said, I also believe the have to cover their butts so they tend to be a bit conservative. My experience has been, Use common sense, nothing extreme for the first 500 miles, then gradually increase over time. I believe it takes at least 1000-1500 miles to break everything in. Change oil at or before factory recommended points and use quality parts. I have to say, it's tough to wait some times, but its worth it. This is the best, most fun to ride bike I've had the pleasure to ride. Everytime I saddle up I can't stop smiling!

agro · 04-04-2005

Broke my Thruxton in using the mototune method; http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm

When I purchased the bike, had the bike delivered to my place 45 km out of town in the country, no traffic, stop lights etc.
Started with 1st to 4th gear from idle/2000rpm to 5000rpm and 5th 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm, WOT from lower rpm to upper rpm, then let motor vacuum to idle repeated each gear ten times, then ten times each gear with 6000 rpm limit, then ten times each with 7000 rpm limit. Varied this run-in procedure by going up and down gears, i.e. 1st gear to 5000, let vacuum down to idle or 2000rpm, change up to second repeat, 3rd...., 4th...., 5th..., let bike cool down for minimum of 30-45 minutes between rpm upper limit change.
Changed oil and filter @ 100 km, 1000 km, 2000 km using Pennzoil Long-Life Diesel Oil 15W-40, @ 3000km changed to Castrol GPS semi-synthetic 10W-50 oil, bike runs sweet and does not use oil.

[ This message was edited by: agro on 2005-04-04 06:11 ]

agro · 04-04-2005

Broke my Thruxton in using the mototune method; http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm

When I purchased the bike, had the bike delivered to my place 45 km out of town in the country, no traffic, stop lights etc.
Started with 1st to 4th gear from idle/2000rpm to 5000rpm and 5th 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm, WOT from lower rpm to upper rpm, then let motor vacuum to idle repeated each gear ten times, then ten times each gear with 6000 rpm limit, then ten times each with 7000 rpm limit. Varied this run-in procedure by going up and down gears, i.e. 1st gear to 5000, let vacuum down to idle or 2000rpm, change up to second repeat, 3rd...., 4th...., 5th..., let bike cool down for minimum of 30-45 minutes between rpm upper limit change.
Changed oil and filter @ 100 km, 1000 km, 2000 km using Pennzoil Long-Life Diesel Oil 15W-40, @ 3000km changed to Castrol GPS semi-synthetic 10W-50 oil, bike runs sweet and does not use oil.

[ This message was edited by: agro on 2005-04-04 06:11 ]

DrEnglish · 04-04-2005

My dealer said to ignore the factory break-in procedures, ride at varying RPMS, don't lug it around town, and don't be afraid to ride it pretty hard even early on. As always, it's generally better to rev high than spend time running near stall speed.

My break-in oil was nice and shiny when I changed it.