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Bitchin' about the Thruxton R

155K views 804 replies 130 participants last post by  11201nyc 
#1 ·
Should I start a new thread for annoyances ?
Three days in and love the bike a lot, but...

Takes two hands to put gas in the tank? There's seemingly no way to remove the gas cap one-handed. I've tried lots of techniques and find it super-stupidly irritating. If you put the key in and turn it, it just freewheels and spins until you hold the cap still with the other hand. Same for putting the cap back on. My 1973 Yamaha had an equally attractive gas cap and all you needed to do to open it was insert the key, turn it a bit and it popped open. What the heck Triumph?

The clock - the first thing I have to do after starting the bike is press the i button five times (not too quickly) to have the the clock visible. It should be on the tach and always available... and you should be able to chose 12-hour time but no. 19:53 is, um... Oh yeah 7! No. Wait, um... 9! No, 7. Both of those things were on my Street Triple.

Pressing the Mode button once does nothing. Press it enough times and it will start blinking to the next setting. The book seemingly does not match reality on this. I can change it while moving now that I've had some practice - the book is correct in this... if you somehow get it to start flashing, roll off, pull in the clutch and it will then stick on your choice. Maybe a better idea may have been a three-position switch. Click-click-click?

That shiny top clamp didn't stay pristine for even the first hour! My key had one of those soft plastic triangular fobs and even that soft plastic was enough to rub some of that shine off. I'm going to be doing some time with the aluminum polish and forget letting anything touch it in the breeze (the fob is removed).

Those wheels are real pretty, but I have chain lube (factory) flinging on them and some other oily drips as well. They're going to be a bitch to clean why... because EVERYTHING on the bike scratches if you just look at it wrong. My cowl is slightly scuffed from throwing my leg over and grazing it once. The tank is marred where my jacked touches it sometimes during braking (along with the stainless strap) So... NOTE TO SELF - do not touch the bike with anything even as abrasive as a soft towel - super-soft toweling is a must and follow all the recommendations in the owner's handbook regarding product and technique, as over-kill as they might sound.

A bug was murdered by my dastardly act of riding the bike when the poor fella did a head-on with the exhaust header. I saw his little carcass stuck there the next morning and flicked him off with a fingernail. Along with him came a patch of the lovely bronze finish off the pipe and now there's an ugly bare spot where he died.

Didn't take long and my lovely bike is not quite as new as it was a few days ago. I want to keep it nice, but I'm afraid it's going to be a endless, disappointing battle.
I dream of a cas cap that locks unless you put your key in the ignition...
 
#3 ·
Why the hell does anyone need/want a locking gas cap on a motorcycle !!!!
Most cars just have a gas door that you touch and it pops open!
Who would be desperate enough to steal one or two gallons of gas from a
motorcycle !!??? What is wrong with motorcycle buyers today that they
think they need this ????? Am I really that old or are people today really
that weird/insecure? Next thing you know, they'll demand locking gas
caps on their lawnmowers and weed trimmers !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SHEESH!
 
#782 ·
Yeah, how much would a simple ignition/solenoid system cost? SFA I am guessing.
Going back to this old post and not having checked what was written in the mean-time.

In the nineties I worked for an electronics manufacturer that produced a (then) state of the art car alarm system for cabriolets. Using microwave technology, it was fantastic and led the way. We won a contract from one of the automotive giants to supply it for their new cabriolet. I remember a discussion about whether to use component A or component B. The former cost about ten pence (US$0.13) more per item but had an expected lifetime of ten years or more with total reliability vs the latter just about working at three years.

With European new car warranties typically 2 years (any third year was at the dealer's cost even though the owner wouldn't know), guess which one got chosen when cost accountants went through the bill of materials?
 
#14 ·
I would be very surprised if you didn't just have to by the 'European' piece, and simply connect it to the base of your existing base piece that's already on your handlebar. Why spend the production money to have a different harness, right?

Also, (I could be wrong, but I remember reading a few posts back in the day, of United States customers buying the European 'On-Off' switch so they could turn their light off on their '07 Thruxton.

As soon as I find out for sure, I will contact a UK dealer and order that. I really like how the day-time LED running light looks by itself. I'm sure someone will do the simple (probably) modification. I'm guessing that 'Euro' switch piece will be near, but not over, $100(USD).
 
#19 ·
Have you tried dispacing the lever a bit? I did it in order to install my insurance holder and I think it prevents the issue.

and it would be one more thing to go wrong. I can imagine the thread appearing "Help! I just blew the fuel cap electronics and I can't unlock the cap until I get a replacement unit and I can't ride to the dealer to pick it up because I am too low on fuel..."

Electronic fuel cap? Vehicles are getting so bloody complicated these days. A replacement 'smart' key for my wife's car costs more than my old ute is worth.
Point taken. Nevertheless, with that "positive thinking" you might just as well get rid of a load of electronics already installed on the 2016 series :wink2:
 
#21 ·
Anyone else get condensation in the clocks? My bikes are garage kept. It's been humid here the last couple days. It's perfect today. Just stopped after about 60 miles. Notice smudges on my tach and speedo while riding. But when I stopped and looked closer it was condensation.
 
#22 ·
@innominate ... I rode mine home on a cool, but humid day (almost about to rain), and I didn't notice any condensation under the gauge-lenses. Nor have I noticed any in the garage, as I have done nothing but stare at it closely for the last three days. Now that yours evaporated, hopefully it won't return. My Brother-in-law's R1 had this all over his headlight lenses, and it just wouldn't go away... I took the bulbs out and let it 'air-out' one afternoon.... And 5 years later, it has yet to ever happen again.
 
#25 ·
I have had two issues so far: (1) taillight only worked to illuminate the license plate and when braking - off otherwise; (2) small oil leak on the right hand side Triumph logo-ed cover (what would have been a points cover on the old bike). Both issues were fixed at the 500 mile service. Otherwise, I note the cleaning issues, but the bike absolutely rips and is better than expected, so spending a little more time cleaning after hours more fun riding is not bad at all.
 
#26 ·
Just taken one for a test ride, mine is due shortly. OK, here's my bitchin'...

I agree with the modes switch, seems unnecessarily complex and frankly I'd rather not have it and the engine just be permanently in sport mode. Yes... sport mode. Well coming from a sports bike I knew it'd be a drop in power but didn't think it'd be this much. Frankly a bit underwhelmed by the power but still love the looks. The one I rode only had standard exhausts which seemed quiet too. I'm hoping the vance & hynes ones improve performance and the sound. Don't particularly like the dials, they seem a bit cheap and cluttered. Would rather have a simple tachometer and a speedo with a needle that doesn't wobble so much.

First up I'll be removing the reflectors and changing it over to an old fashioned black & aluminium metal numberplate. Then looking at ways to get the power of this thing up.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Well coming from a sports bike I knew it'd be a drop in power but didn't think it'd be this much. Frankly a bit underwhelmed by the power
I'm not sure what you expected when comparing a 160hp and 90ft/lb full blown sports bike that weighs 70lbs less with a 97hp and 82ft/lb bike?

On paper with the weight difference thats like 70hp and 10ft/lb more than the Thuxton!
 
#33 · (Edited)
I find that the mode auto-reset is adapted to my lifestyle. Bear with me:

I commute everyday to & from work (approx. 30km). Every time I start up, I must first go through a load of traffic before hitting the open.
Same thing when I leave for a Sunday stroll - I must first exit town for the first 10min via the narrow streets of old Marseille (founded in 600 BC :|) + traffic.

Then there is the issue of the engine needing to warm up after starting it up - is doing it in "sport" mode really appropriate?

So starting in "road" mode suits me just fine.
 
#30 ·
Between 3 k and 6 k rpm the Thruxton 1200 puts out more power than any of the litre sportbikes. I sure can't use all it's got on our road system, and at that I'm riding way over speed limits. On exiting tight corners the traction control light comes on quite often with about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle.

Glen
 
#31 ·
Glen, I'm with you. Typical situation, downtown in 2nd gear at 40km/h (25miles) you are running at relaxed 3000rpm.
But if you open the throttle and stay in 2nd until 7000rpm the Thruxton will pull the chain like an angry british bulldog and you will hit 100km/h (62miles) in a second or two. Acceleration in this everyday scenario is really awesome.
 
#32 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yes, it has useable power in bucketloads. And when you are cruising along at 110 kmh or so and want to pass, there is no need to row down thru the gearbox to find good power as is necessary on all of the litre Sportbikes, new or old. Just crank it on in top, or maybe drop one gear and go.

Ultimately the Sportbike has more power if you use the high RPM range, but some of us are weary of that kind of all or nothing riding.

They both have their place, but the Sportbike is really made for the track, not so much the road. This Thruxton is made for the road.

Re the BMW R9 T- It may be a great bike ( homely tho) but according to this fellow on the R nine T forum, the Thruxton impressed- remember this is from a Beemer guy-

Test rode the*Thruxton*R at the weekend.It’s a very nice bike, to compare I would say...Engine a little smoother, with slightly more get up and go low down (slightly) Fuelling is not as good though slightly snatchy low down (slightly)Suspension is firmer especially the forks, but well controlled.Riding position is nice, very slim, more suited to higher speeds, and less suited to town work.The small 14.5 litre fuel tank would worry me as I don’t like having to stop for fuel any more often than I have to.I felt the quality of the finish, nuts and bolts etc was not as good as the beemer;s
 
#34 ·
Drop Dead Gorgeous v Meh

Re the BMW R9 T- It may be a great bike ( homely tho) but according to this fellow on the R nine T forum, the Thruxton impressed- remember this is from a Beemer guy-

Test rode the*Thruxton*R at the weekend.It’s a very nice bike, to compare I would say...Engine a little smoother, with slightly more get up and go low down (slightly) Fuelling is not as good though slightly snatchy low down (slightly)Suspension is firmer especially the forks, but well controlled.Riding position is nice, very slim, more suited to higher speeds, and less suited to town work.The small 14.5 litre fuel tank would worry me as I don’t like having to stop for fuel any more often than I have to.I felt the quality of the finish, nuts and bolts etc was not as good as the beemer;s
After acclimatizing to a bike you forget about the nuances of a.n.other bike, however you do have to look at the thing everytime you get on and off, I honestly can't say I will ever love the looks of the 9T......the Thruxton R on the other hand will only get better with age and fettling ?
 
#41 ·
Most Sportbikes use fuel at about the same rate as a big old Oldsmobile, but the riders,like you, generally don't mind. So there isn't much incentive for manufacturers to improve fuel efficiency.
Perhaps because Triumph is a British company they have opted for decent fuel economy. Even their sportbikes run pretty light on fuel.
Personally, I think this is great. If that makes me into an antiquated rider, so be it.

Glen
 
#52 ·
Yep - I did set the title to "bitchin" because that's what us Frenchmen do: we love to constantly complain about everything :grin2:

Regading the gears on my Thruxton R, when overtaking someone at 60mph I would definitely be in 4th. However, @ the same stable speed on a highway I would be in 5th - no question about it.
 
#57 · (Edited)
I'm not sure why you feel the need to say "1,000cc in line four"
Any bike whether it be a twin, four cylinder, tripple or a single for that matter at a constant 60mph should be in top gear....It wont labour the engine and it will give you better MPG and also less stress an wear on engine and transmission components.. If you need to drop a gear or two to accelerate it aint no big deal, that's what the gearbox is for...

I get the feeling you feel you you feel need to stay in the power band even when sitting at a steady speed....Which is fair enough, if that's what floats your boat, but I just drop a gear or two when and if I need too..

An engine is an engine whatever its in, car or bike. And I think you will find no matter what car you drive, auto or manual (stick shift to you), top gear is selected at 60mph unless undewr hard acceleration...
 
#59 ·
Has anyone else had trouble seeing the guages and idiot lights? At night my MPH is super dim as are my revs except above redline. Also the idiot lights during the day are too dim to be seen. I know it's a long shot but I dont suppose there is some hidden brightness menu or something. I might call TNA and ask them what's up. It's a bit of a problem honestly, I cant even tell if my brights are on or not during the day.
 
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