I finally got around to upgrading my forks with Racetech springs and cartridge emulators - it makes a big improvement in handling especially when it comes to reducing dive while braking. I also installed YSS rear shocks. Between the two it feels much more planted.
Someone else has a nice post on how to install the emulators on a bonnie found in the blogs section (was on the wiki - when is that coming back?). The parts and process are similar. Here's my take on it. What you'll need:
TOOLS
Your usual selection of metric wrenches and allen keys
Haynes manual - recommended - these instructions don't cover all aspects
Large diameter tubing cutter - recommended - a hacksaw will do if you're careful
Fork oil level syringe - recommended - turkey baster and meas. tape works in a pinch
Drill, bits, and bench vise or drill press
Air impact wrench with 8mm allen extension for removing the damper rod bolts (I tried and failed in removing with a regular allen key - you might have success. I got the local shop where I bought the fork oil to zip mine out using the impact wrench).
A lift or some other creative way to lift your front wheel off the ground - I once used ratcheting tie down straps looped thru rafters to lift a front end of a bike once, but that was "in the ghetto..." sing it Elvis.
PARTS/SUPPLIES
2 damper rod crush washers (copper) - i reused mine because they looked fine and the dealer didn't have any in stock
Race tech springs FSRP S3534095 (.95kg/mm based on rider weight) - recommended - the emulators are designed to allow you to use a higher rate spring. You could probably get away with keeping the stock springs, but I can't vouch for how that would perform.
Race tech cartridge emulators FEGV S4101
(2) PVC slip/slip joint 3/4" x 3/4" for use as an adapter to fit between emulator and fork damping tube - as sold in the plumbing section of your fave hdw. store
10 wt fork oil - 2 pint containers
HERE WE GO, FINALLY
Lift bike & Remove the front wheel - that's where you newbies might need that manual
Set the preload all the way up and try to remove the damper rod bolts - have an oil pan ready to catch the fork oil that drains. If the damper rod bolts spin, but don't unthread, the damper rods are spinning. You'll need to use an impact wrench.
Set the preload at the lowest setting and loosen, but don't remove the fork caps.
Remove/work/replace one fork tube at a time. This avoids mixing up identical looking parts between the forks, and also makes it a lot easier to install the fork tubes. **** those rubber grommets! Remove one fork tube by loosening the triple clamp bolts and the clip-on bolts(on the appropriate side you're working on - not both sides). A little wd40 on the grommets may help slip the tubes out.
Remove the fork tube caps and dump the oil out - watch for parts as they come out.
Assuming you removed the damper rod bolts, the damper rod should come out. You'll need to drill 3 sets of 5/16 holes (6 total) in each rod according to Racetech's instructions. Make sure you clean up all metal filings before reassembly - that goes for all steps of this process. You don't need loose metal wearing out your fork seals, now do ya?
Cut the PVC slip joints you bought down to 2cm long - the tubing cutter makes this easy - you need these to be as equal in length as possible.
Adjust the emulator spings for as you wish according to racetech instructions - I left mine at the stock rebound setting for street use.
Now, use your tubing cutter to cut new spacers to fit on top of the fork springs. If you are using Racetech's springs, cut the spacer stock provided, or the original spacers, to 13.8 cm to acheive the recommended 1.5 cm of preload. This gives you a good baseline to adjust preload from there using the cap adjustments once installed.
Reuse the stock washers between the spring and the 13.8 cm spacer - the ones racetech provides don't fit. Go figure.
Install the damper rod back in the fork - don't forget the topout spring. Install all the new and stock parts without the fork oil, and install the crush washer (new) and the damper rod bolt and tighten. Now remove the cap again and all other parts that fall out.
Reinsert the PVC spacer, then the emulator and make sure they seat properly.
Fill the tubes with 10wt oil (recommended weight) as per Racetech's instructions. Fill them to within 11 cm of the top (recommended level) Here's where that syringe is nice. Back off, junkie. The syringe makes it much easier to adjust the oil level, trust me. Forget that turkey baster idea. It is innacurate, drips oil all over the place and built for Thanksgiving day not race day. Besides, someday you'll want to change the fork oil and you'll be glad you invested in one - easily worth the $40 i paid for mine (thanks to the rat who suggested this item to me), though the inventive could easily make their own homebrew version of this.
Extend the fork tube, install the new spring, stock washer, 13.8cm spacer, stock shim, then the preoad cap. Be carefull not to cross thread the cap into the tube.
Install the fork tube back on the bike. Use a little wd40 again. Be patient, don't flip out. Those grommets suck.
Guess what, repeat on the other side.
Once you get both tubes in the clamps, lightly tighten just the bottom clamp bolts to allow the fork tubes to slide a little. Adjust the tubes so that they protrude an even amount from the top clamp. make sure you get this right, ok. really. Now tighten all the clamp bolts, reinstall your fender wheel and front brake.
Jeez, do I talk a lot.
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