I finally finished the installation of my Ohlins fork a few weeks ago. I had posted a few pictures of the bike in another thread over a month ago when it was not quite done yet. Before the website switchover, I had almost finished an album full of photos of different aftermarket parts and many parts I made for this front end. Those old pictures are still floating in cyberspace, but are not as accessible as they used to be, so I am building a new album, which I will add more pictures to later. Click here
to check it out, if you like.
I finished making a front rotor spacer, finally got the front brake rotor and speedometer sensor installed, and was able to take the bike up to top speed. Everything feels good at all speeds, and there seem to be no handling quirks. I have put about 700-800 miles on the bike since finishing the project. One minor drawback: with both the instruments and mirrors so low, when looking straight ahead, all I can see is the very top of the headlight. I have to look down slightly to bring mirrors or speedometers into view. Even when attempting to view them with peripheral vision, they are blocked by the front portion of my full face helmet. Each speedometer unit can independently display speed, trip, riding time, RPM, or odometer. The wheel circumference can be set to within 1 mm, so after calibrating at 90 mph using a GPS on a nice straight stretch of road, my speed is now displayed very accurately. I decided to keep the stock warning lights and put holes in the top clamp to accommodate them, but I replaced the stock bulbs with white 6-LED bulbs. I used the same rather large fork offset that the stock triple clamps had, which kept the steering geometry the same as stock and gave more room to fit the instruments into the top clamp. The top clamp is also a complete self-contained instrument panel. The wiring is contained below the top clamp by an attached wiring compartment I machined from a block of solid ABS. Disconnecting one connector in the headlight shell and two quick-release Lemo connectors for the speedometer sensor and the control switches will free the whole top clamp assembly. The top surface of the upper triple clamp is about 1/2 inch lower than on the stock setup. I built a downward step into the top clamp to compensate for the slightly shorter-than-stock Ohlins fork legs, and to additionally provide extra room to lower the fork legs when I eventually put a 17" wheel on the front. The handlebars ended up somewhere around 2" lower than on the stock setup, due to both the design of the top clamp and the fact that the new clip-on bars have no rise built into them. I have the bars angled down 8°, which is as low as they go. The center of the front wheel has been slightly bored out to fit a larger bearing spacer. The stock bearings have been replaced with 22mm bearings. The front wheel now rides on a 22mm RC51 front axle. The stock wheel spacers and speedometer drive have been replaced with aluminum spacers. I designed all the spacers to fit the stock dust seals on the front wheel. I made some fork guards from ABS to keep rocks and bugs off of the inner fork tubes. Overall, I made about 27 individual parts for this conversion, and modified several more. The most labor-intensive pieces were the triple clamps, which took me almost 40 hours each to make (I took my time to avoid mistakes).
Here is the fork on the bike:
Here are the upper and lower triple clamps: