Triumphrat

tham · 02-20-2007

I am running the British custom fender eliminator kit with the LED taillight assembly. (They installed it when I bought the bike).

This is on my 05 Thruxton......

I started having trouble with the brake pressure switch (possibly) today
It started sticking in the "Brake light on" position.

When I disconnected it at the switch...everything worked fine.
(The front is a mechanical setup).

A multimeter tells me that I have a constant 9.76 Volts coming through to the switch.

I cracked the bleeder & topped off the Master Cylinder with some success.
But it still wants to stick if the lever is just tapped slightly.

(I have already called South Bay to get some direction on this but the Mechanic wasn't the one who installed it (& frankly wasn't to clear on what voltage is supposed to be running through to the LED setup.....he just assumed 12 volts.)

Anyone else experience issues with the switch?.......Fixes?....
I would rather avoid taking it 2 hours away for something stupid & simple that I can do myself.......

Thanks in advance.

[ This message was edited by: tham on 2007-02-20 18:24 ]

tham · 02-21-2007

anyone?..........

Anyways...I did a continuity check on the switch itself.
It is sticking open.

A warranty item that I will ride 2 hours away.....to have them tell me the same thing.......then come back when they get the part.

Oh well, I knew what I was signing up for when I bought a bike 100 miles away from me.

At least I will get to bomb Mullholland & Stunt road on the way there.

Thrux-ton-up · 02-21-2007

Tham - I hate electrical stuff - no way to lube the switch with some Dielectric grease? Order the part from Bikebandit and save yourself the travel time.

tham · 02-21-2007

Thanks for the response Thrux-ton-up....

It is actually assembled with die electric grease & done correctly.
(South Bay did it when I bought the bike in 05).

It is a hydraulic in line pressure switch (just like my 66 Ford)...

Sad thing is, when they go bad.......they just go bad.

I will check out stock with Bike bandit.
Plus It will give me an excuse to bleed my rear brakes.

bonnieblackinfl · 02-21-2007

I had the mircoswitch go out on my front brake handle, $17 for a replacement. Very simple to do.

Greg

tham · 02-21-2007

The rear switch will require removal of the rear hose to the caliper (on 1 end). As it is hydraulically operated rather than mechanical.

My front switch works great (thankfully... so at least I don't have to park the bike for something so simple)

I found the part on Bike Bandit but I am a little confused at this statement:
" 9: SWITCH, REAR BRAKE
SERIAL NUMBER 18628 AND HIGHER"

What serial number?....the VIN Number?.....a Part Number I cant seem to locate?.....hmmmmm

The site isn't clear about that & there is nothing in the FAQ's addressing it....I have sent an email to them & hopefully it will be an obvious thing that I am missing.

Fun stuff.....

tham · 02-22-2007

Thanks Thrux-Ton Up

For the Bike bandit link.........
I have a feeling that will definitely come in handy again.

I am a bit of a moron though......they were referring to the frame numbers. (serial number). :upthumb:

[ This message was edited by: tham on 2007-02-22 11:35 ]