Main Motorcycle: '05 Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Buffalo, NY
Other Motorcycle: 47 FL Knucklehead
Extra Motorcycle: '74 RD350
|Club Cafe' Cafe Racers; the Thruxton, Bobber and other custom cafe styled bikes.|
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I have observed two things about lacing wheels.(Disclaimer: No expert, just a guy who has done it a couple of times).
First, the use of a dial indicator is very helpful. At first blush, it would seem that this only helps get the wheel dead on during the last final adjustments. However, what I find is that it more easily helps you observe the small changes that occur as you start bringing the wheel into alignment. In other words, if you need to move a spot on the wheel in some direction, the dial indicator will let you know right away if you are going in the right direction. Harbor Freight has a cheap one for around $35 or you could invest in a better one if you have need.
Second, you need a good straight wheel to start with. I have frustrated myself no end trying to true a wheel, the hoop of which had weaves and lumps in it.
So, if you are thinking about breaking down your wheel, just for painting, and reassembling, you might want to check to see how straight it was to begin with. If you know it was really true before, then you should be able to get it back after reassembling. But it it's a lot more wobbly than you realized at least you will know what's the best you should be able to expect.
And, as Retro-Racer mentioned, rattle can paint is usually not very durable as it is usually a type of lacquer and quite soft. However, hubs are pretty well protected and usually will only get wear and tear from reassembly and then cleaning. Just be sure you properly clean and prime prior to painting. Given the time and work of disassembling and reassembling wheels. better paint might be worth the cost.
Here is what I did...
I dug out the paper work that I got from Buchanan Spoke and Wheel. It did not include a clear answer to your question "anyone have a spec on spoke torque?".
The instructions were minimal with a caution against not getting them tight enough.
From what I can understand about spokes, they can be viewed as a type of bolt. The purpose of "preload" is to prevent the "bolt" from stretching under load. If the spoke is not preloaded enough it will flex if the load exceeds the preload and, according to Buchanan, cause the spoke to break at the head.
All this makes very good sense however, it would be nice if it could be translated into actual numbers that you could use. Unfortunately, the only number that I see in the paper work references "large displacement cycles" which it says should be torqued to "in excess of 80 inch pounds". And, according to them will require the use of "a close fitting 6"to 8" wrench".
All of this is not very helpful as one would need to know what gauge spoke was being used with "large displacement cycles" and then be able to adjust the torque setting to the gauge of spoke you are working with. Furthermore, it would be important to reduce any additional friction such as is found in the nipple head to rim contact point as this would throw your figures off.
In the end, I did basically what you suggested, tried to tighten them evenly to a firm torque and figured I will check them after riding a bit. Not very scientific but it's all I've got.
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