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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 10-26-2008, 02:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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tires,tubes and rubber band

i need to get tires , tubes, rubber bands, and tire irons, for a 73 bonnie. i started to order dunlop 70's from ron ayers when i realized that i should ask about recomended tubes for this bike, he has a couple of brands and valve stem types.any help. tigercub
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Just the wisdom of the "village idiot" here, again, but....always go with "real" rubber tube (Metzler, Dunlop, Michelin, etc.) as they will not shred if you get a puncture. The inexpensive ones are made of some kind of material that will often "tear" in a puncture situation, thereby losing it's air in an instant; the "real" rubber ones will stay intact and lose the air at a much slower rate. Got this info from a very reliable magazine some years back. The only puncture I've ever had bore this theory out...I was using Michelin tubes and, while it wasn't something I'd like to do again, I was able to stop the bike before anything drastic happened. Be prepared to spend some money on them, they don't come cheap........but neither does your life and limbs!!

"Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!" (Dennis Miller): Jim
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Jim, Talking about cheap tires:What are Chen Cheng tires made of? I got em on my 59. They feel a little hard, but that just could be the bike. I have had flat tires on tube tires a number of times (can't remember brands,) and they all went flat fast. I was under the impression that the air escapes rapidly through the spoke holes and the tire had nothing to do with that.
For the original poster: I always have a sikle shop put the tires on. I gave up,Pinching tubes for me, is a curse!
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Old 10-27-2008, 03:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I do a good bit of dirt road riding, the Dunlop K70s have been treating me quite well and they look right at home. The Metzlers that the shop had were a bit too "street" for my commute, but if you're not leaving the pavement often, they come highly recommended. It's all about matching the tire to the type of riding you'll be doing.

--Scott
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Old 10-27-2008, 05:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The original question was about which tube should he use. I'm in agreement with the "rubber" tubes as being the choice to go with.
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi, Red...

As far as I know, Cheng Shin tires are of a harder compound than most, but are good so long as you aren't pushing it in the corners. I believe it was them that I read about in an article on London's dispatch riders....they wear well and last a long time. As far as the tube theory goes, a "real" (natural?) rubber tube will "cling" to the nail, or whatever, that's gone into it. Of course, it won't still hold air, but it'll keep the air loss to a slower, constant rate. As I said before....been there, done that! The small hole is easier to patch, if you believe in that sort of thing; I used to carry a spare tube for each wheel with me as I don't trust patching on a 2 wheeler. I've given up doing my own, as well, but if you have to, make sure that the tire irons are buffed smooth and have some sort of lubricant to use on the beads and rims; put a fair amount of air in the tube as well before you try to seat the last side of the tire. Then.........hope you get lucky!!

............and maybe that's why I'm the "village idiot": Jim
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimballard View Post
As far as the tube theory goes, a "real" (natural?) rubber tube will "cling" to the nail, or whatever, that's gone into it.
In that vein, I wonder if bicycle tire goo would work in motorcycle tires without throwing them too far off balance. I normally wouldn't worry much about punctures, I just carry a plug kit and cheapo compressor in my car. Can't really use plugs on tube tires though!

My rule of thumb on tubes, which I forgot to mention in my previous post, is to just buy the best and thickest tubes you think you can justify, WITH A METAL STEM. They generally last through enough sets of tires that the additional cost of buying quality is negligible, and stems always seem to be the first thing to get damaged if something goes wrong.

--Scott
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I have to agree regarding getting really good tubes. They cost over $30 which put me off as I figured if it held air what the hey. Put new tires, tubes and rubber bands on the Tri. Cheapo tubes that came from JC Whitney with my Chen Seng tires. Had one flat, patched it, had another flat, put slime in there. Had a tube explosion that ripped a 3-4 inch flap in the tube. Emptied about three quarters of a quart of slime in it at the service station thinking I could get home. NOPE! Bought a new tube, not the $30 one that seemed outrageous to me. In the course of checking things more closely this time, I find about 5 spokes that actually protruded past the ferrule slightly. That is what was causing the flats. Grinder time. Moral of story. Pay for the $30 tube. Check your spokes and anything else protruding that may cause a puncture. Wrap electric tape twice around before putting the rubber band on. Save the good old tubes and rubber bands if you find them in your tires. Use them if they are sound. Next round I will re use the Michelin tube ,made in France ,that came out of my rear tire. With one patch of course.
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Dunlop TT100's

I always fit Dunlop TT100's to my bikes as they have the classic look and are dam good tyres to boot, i use good quality inner tubes. As stated check that your spoke ends are flush with the end of the spoke nipple, don't use cheepo rim tape (rubber bands) I always use old inner tubes, just out the valve, this goes over the hole in the rim to allow the new inner tube valve to fit through, then trim the old tube so it fits inside the wheel rim leaving about 5/16-3/8 gap from the wheel wall. If you must repair an old inner tube you should use a self vulcanising type repair and use this tube in the rear only. When fitting your new tyre/tube put one bead of the tyre over the wheel then put a hand full of French chalk into the tyre. Spin the wheel round to coat the inside of the tyre with French chalk then push in the inner tube, pushing the valve into the hole in the rim. Then inflate the inner tube just sufficiently for it to assume a circular shape, the french chalk acts as a lubricant and helps the inner tube settle. Pull over the rest of the tyre rim and over inflate your tyre, bounce the tyre on the floor a few times to help set the tyre into the rim making sure it's sitting even all the way round. Readjust the tyre pressure to the correct specs and fit.
For whats it's worth I never try to repair an inner tube just fit a new one.
As missfortune would have it I've had more than my fair share of punctures and have become a dab hand at tyre removal/replacment.
I always seem to find that nail that someone lost.

Mike
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I love this site!!!! The information from the past experiences of Members is priceless concerning any number of subjects....

The only thing i have too add to this thread is, concedering the cost of a funeral, going cheap on tires and tubes is not in my opinion a smart move, but could be your last...

Cheers
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