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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 10-21-2008, 03:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Gear Grinding

This may have been brought up before, but my 1968 TR6R grinds gears when I shift from neutral to first. It shifts smoothly when I go from second gear to first. Is this normal?
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Old 11-07-2008, 01:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Most grinding when shifting from neutral to first is caused by not "clearing the clutch" before starting the bike. To clear the clutch, put bike in neutral, pull in the clutch lever, and then kick the starter until the clutch breaks free, and you are no longer turning over the motor. Then, after starting the bike, when you are about to shift from neutral to first, do NOT rev the motor, but simply pull in the clutch lever, count to five, and depress the shift lever. Virtually every one of my customers who complains of grinding when shifting into first from neutral, revs the motor just as they are about to shift into first. If however, trying the above recommendations doesn't seem to work (due to possibly gummy plates, or etc) then shift into second from neutral, and then from second to first. That should take care of any grinding problems.
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Old 11-07-2008, 11:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicktero View Post
Most grinding when shifting from neutral to first is caused by not "clearing the clutch" before starting the bike. To clear the clutch, put bike in neutral, pull in the clutch lever, and then kick the starter until the clutch breaks free, and you are no longer turning over the motor. Then, after starting the bike, when you are about to shift from neutral to first, do NOT rev the motor, but simply pull in the clutch lever, count to five, and depress the shift lever. Virtually every one of my customers who complains of grinding when shifting into first from neutral, revs the motor just as they are about to shift into first. If however, trying the above recommendations doesn't seem to work (due to possibly gummy plates, or etc) then shift into second from neutral, and then from second to first. That should take care of any grinding problems.

Don't forget to properly adjust the clutch too.

TD
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Old 11-07-2008, 12:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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slicktero - just a comment..my (limited) experience has been that if I don't give my bike ('77 TR7V) a little gas when shifting into first, it'll die. Attempting to clear the clutch first may make the typically slightly rocky transition to first a bit smoother, but it still wants to die without a small tug on the throttle. I've gone through the standard clutch adjustment and I believe the clutch was rebuilt within the past few years. I'll give the second to first suggestion a whirl..

Also, why count to 5? Can the mechanism really take that long to fully disengage?
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Brooklyn--Depending on the brand of clutch plate that you are using, and how long the bike sits idle (like all winter in some parts of this country) even after you have freed up the clutch before starting the bike, the plates may still be dragging. That is why I suggest a 5 count berfore shifting into first. When you pulll in the clutch lever, all that does is lift the pressure plate off of the first clutch plate. You still have 12 clutch plates that all need to separate fully before you can shift smoothly. Sounds to me like you would benefit from shifting into second before dropping into first. Usually, due to the different gear ratio, if you shift into second from neutral, the bike might lurch a bit, but won't usually stall. Let me also say, that there are a lot of clutch plates out there that are made in the Orient, and these particular plates are notorious for swelling up and causing drag. There are many different reasons for clutch drag, but I can assure you that the Oriental plates that are sold by most dealers/mail order stores are true junk. About the best clutch, IMHO, is the Hyde 7 plate clutch. It costs about 3 times the price of the Oriental plates, but I will install no other clutch in a Triumph or BSA. Also, if your primary chain is too tight, it tends to cock the clutch chainwheel and the tight chain also reduces the amount of "wobble" in the chainwheel. A certain amount of wobble is needed for the clutch plates to all separate properly. Alos be certain that you have a good sturdy clutch cable fitted. One that jumps all around when you pull in the clutch lever causes you to lose some clutch pressure plate lift. Also check that your lever pivot screw isn't all worn, and that the hole in the lever mount isn't oval. All this stuff adds up a a dragging clutch which then means that you grind going into gear (especially 1st)
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