Triumphrat

Mecchanica · 07-14-2008

Sparx makes both a high output single phase AND a three phase, which is the only way to go. Which did you buy? If your bike is wired correctly and has clean and tight connections, it should start one kick with the lights off (remember that the oil pressure light is effectively a ground wire, you have to take it out of circuit for starting)
I ran my daily rider 68 Bonniger for three years with the stock system with a cap replacing the battery. One kick starting, but you had to blip the throttle when flicking on the lights (H4 bulb) and raise the idle a little with extended knob screw. Once the filament heats up, it is no longer a dead ground.
I installed a Lucas three phase alternator and reg/rect. and it then would idle with no adjustment of the idle speed and even occasionally started with the lights on!! Took a hearty boot, though. Ran this for six years.
Installed the Sparx to test the system, before I started selling them. The output of the three phase is claimed to be 14.5A right down to 2K rpm. I haven't set up the correct test rig yet, but it's in the plans. Ran that setup for three more years.
If your bike won't run without a battery, suspect the wiring...dirty or loose connections or improper hook up.

Bonnevillain · 07-14-2008

I'm using the three phase. I did, however, have the oil pressure warning light in circuit. It would probably start okay if I took that out, but I have my doubts that it'll run the turn signals and light at the same time. I replaced almost all of the wiring with new 14ga wire, and I made very sure that all the connections were good. I'll probably replace the few remaining original wires when weather is bad and try the cap again. For now, the battery is working, and I'm just going to let it be until the rings are worn in.

I replaced almost all of the wiring with new 14ga wire, and I made very sure that all the connections were good. I'll probably replace the few remaining original wires when weather is bad and try the cap again. For now, the battery is working, and I'm just going to let it be until the rings are worn in.

One strange note about this--after I hooked the signals up and got them to work with the battery, I figured all was well. I had the bike hauled to my home. I then started it with the cap, and the front signals didn't work. I tried it with the battery--same result. It turns out that the headlight shell had come ungrounded. I couldn't figure out why, so I just ran a 14ga ground wire to the frame. Could this be part of the problem? Insufficient ground? Where does the shell normally pick up ground from the frame? The shell mounts have rubber bases, and I couldn't see any way to make them ground better.

Greaser · 07-14-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Emanthehorse

A magneto would solve the problem

)

It might solve the strating problem but I think you'd still run short on power, I know I am!
The Powerbox puts out 14.45 V and my alternator is rated at 120W, and as it is 40 years old, I wonder what its actual output is?
So with 14.45 V (default mode with no battery for the Powerbox) and a possible 120W, that only leaves me about 8.3Amps, not enough to run the headlight, taillight/brake light AND horn.

Mecchanica · 07-14-2008

A magneto is just another alternator dedicated to ignition. If your main alternator is in great shape and/or a Three Phase, it's just like a magneto which has extra windings for other loads.
DO NOT RELY ON THE FRAME AS A GROUND. Daisy chain all the components you can together with a ground wire and ground one end on the engine and the other on the frame. Belt AND suspenders.
The horn and turn signals shouldn't overload a three phase system.

Bonnevillain · 07-15-2008

Aha, I wondered about that. When I decide it's time to mess with the wiring some more--probably August--I'll run the ground wire, replace any remaining original wires, take the oil pressure warning light out of circuit, and try the capacitor again. I'll report the results when I do this. Thanks for the tips, all.