Triumphrat

wingnut

hello finally joined up here, great info by your members and hope to contribute to this great resource. ok heres the problem;

the motor is a T120c its a 63 or 64 (not a preunit)
my battery is brand new and water is fine, i have rewired the whole bike and silver soldered and heat-shrinked all connections. how do i test the alternator?
i have a multimeter, the battery when charged is 12.5vdc
when running at high idle it reads 8.6vdc
i am assuming the drop is from the draw of the bike running with no charge comming in...
where do i start?

it has tympanium and boyer electronics.
these are both zip tied together underneath the gas tank, between the frames.
is this a bad place for them?
im also wondering if the tympanium is faulty. if i had some test procedures like resistance values or something i could figure this out.
the headlight doesnt go dim to warn me that the battery is going, it just cuts out and thats it, kapoot.

GrandPaulZ

Check your Zener Diode, it might be shorted causing a charging "dump" to ground.

I don't have typaniumtroubleshooting guide handy, sorry.

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wingnut

thanks, i dont have a zener diode, i think it may be removed because of the electronics modules. im new to some of the principals of them.

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jimballard

At the risk of having the "slings and arrows" visited upon me, let me ask the dumb question: "You do have the positive side grounded, don't you?"

No offense intended: Jim

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wingnut

yes it is positive grounded, it runs fine it just doesnt charge.
jim: i couldn't get the archers and slingers out of bed so i guess you got lucky

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kingfish371

i had a similar problem...first question...did you build the motor???second question...have you seen your stator??????..the reason im asking is...i did not build my motor...the same thing happened to me...whomever built my motor put my stator on backwards and my primary chain bit into my stator wires....my bike would run...because of my voltage regulator had a capacitor in it...but it wouldnt charge....so running at night was interesting...i finally found the problem recently when i had to take the whole motor apart because my rightside main crank bearing took a crap...look at your stator..it wont charge if its grounded out to your primary chain.........kingfish

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wingnut

no i did not build it, i just got the bike, i have had the cover off, the wires looked fine. although there is alot of metal in the primary oil due to the very worn clutch shell and steels, i was wondering if the metal could cause problems with conductance. i will be pulling the cover off again to see if i can find anything obvious.
is there a way to test the alternator? like resistance readings?
thanks

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OzBloke

Wingnut,

Firstly, send me a PM or email with your email address and I'll send you a doc that may help.

GPZ - if the Zener shorts - it WILL take the fuse out immediately (in a blinding flash).

The alternator stator can be checked by:

- ign off
- fuse out
- disconnect the two wires from the alternator stator, where they connect to the Podtronics rectifier/regulator yellow wires.
- multimeter on low ohms range - 200 ohms
- measure between the wires going to the alternator - should see less than 2 ohms
- Meter in high ohms range - 20Mohms
- measure between one of the wires and frame/earth/battery +ve. Should see "1 blank" (infinite resistance) on meter.

If either of these readings is not right, the stator or wiring to it is faulty.

Pete

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wingnut

thanks very much i'll get crackin' on this first thing in the morning!

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