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The list is too long to cover everything with even a good guess, and without photos it's impossible to tell.
Taking someone's word that it was running can be an "iffy" proposition, sorry.
Main items:
Is the engine totally complete and assembled, all inspection caps, screws, nuts and bolts in place?
Are all the cylinder & head fins intact?
Any evidence of welding done to crancases, and/or any damage around aluminum fin/lip over the output sprocket?
Are the threads in the exhaust ports and spark plug holes clean and complete?
Can you rotate the crankshaft by rotating the kickstarter or it's shaft?
If the engine turns over, does it have good compression?
Any evidence of oil leakage ? (likely to have been cleaned up if it's for sale)
If you can rotate the engine, can you shift it down to 1st, then up through the 3 upper gears while you rotate it, and does the sprocket seem to turn faster and faster?
Look at the serial number area just below the left side of the cylinder base - if it's a 69, the serial number should be between DU 85904 and DU 90282, and the number pad area should be smooth.
- if it's a serial number with any other two letters besides "T120R", it should have little embossed Triumph logos with the number stamped over it. If the first two letters of the serial number are any combination with a "C" as the second letter, it is PROBABLY a '69.
If the lump passes all of the above checks, and you cannot get authentication on the rebuild work that was done, it certainly shouldn't sell for over $1,000 (I have 2 spares that pass all of the above, and I'll sell either one for a grand).
If the seller authenticates all the work, and gives you some kind of guarantee that it will run properly when you install it, it could be worth $2,500 or more. It's really hard to get any closer than that without seeing really good photos or splitting it open to see what's what.
Last edited by GrandPaulZ : 05-09-2008 at 06:01 PM.
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