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The thing won't run

3K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  Mr E 
#1 ·
Hi there,

After a few years without real issues the thing ('72 TR6R) does not start.
If I kick it there is no spark, if I turn the ignition switch off there is.
If I move a screwdriver in front of the pick-up there is no spark, the resistance of the coil is 280 Ohm.
What is wrong?

It's probably something stupid I'm missing, thanks for any suggestions!

Edward
 
#3 ·
Hi,


Rita.

If I kick it there is no spark, if I turn the ignition switch off there is.
If I move a screwdriver in front of the pick-up there is no spark,
The pick-up has a White wire and a Black wire? Does the bike still use the old Black/White and Black/Yellow wires from the pick-up wires to the Rita amplifier? If so, are the two pairs of wires joined together on a thin threaded stud, separated from the stud by a plastic sleeve and from each other by a collection of fibre washers?

If so:-

. Are the two nuts (the outer nut is a locknut for the inner one) tight on the stud and squeezing all the wires' washers and fibre washers together?

. Are the wires' washers clean, no corrosion?

If your Rita pick-up still has the wires' fastening detailed above, when you take it apart to check the wires' washers are clean, temporarily fasten the pairs of wires together off the stud (with small screws/nuts or croc. clips?), make sure the two connections aren't touching, turn on the ignition and kick the engine over a few times to see if you now get a spark?

Come back with the results.

Regards,
 
#4 ·
Yes it is a Rita.

If your Rita pick-up still has the wires' fastening detailed above
Yes it has, it looked all very clean, no corrosion.

temporarily fasten the pairs of wires together off the stud (with small screws/nuts or croc. clips?), make sure the two connections aren't touching, turn on the ignition and kick the engine over a few times to see if you now get a spark?
Did that and the result is the same, spark when I turn the ignition on/off, no spark when I kick.
 
#9 ·
Hi Edward,

Will check all wires/connections
Particularly check the continuity of the Black/White and Black/Yellow wires between the pick-up and the amplifier. If you (or the fitter of the Rita) used the old points wires, if I remember correctly, there are bullet connections about half-way between?

Less likely but should also be checked:-

Battery
reads 12.8 volt.
Is this with ignition switch off? If so, check the battery Volts with the ignition switch turned on.

Also check that the Volts you see on the meter with it connected across the battery are the same as you see with the meter connected between battery +ve and the connection between the wiring harness White/Yellow wire and the Rita Black wire.

With the ignition on and the meter connected between battery and Rita as above, gently wiggle the key in the ignition switch and the button of any kill switch to ensure neither has an intermittent problem.

According to a friendly neighbour it is a spark but a lousy one
In my experience, even 'good' ones don't look very good; I am afraid what the spark looks like is never much of an indication one way or the other. :(

The pick-up has a White wire and a Black wire? Does the bike still use the old Black/White and Black/Yellow wires from the pick-up wires to the Rita amplifier? If so, are the two pairs of wires joined together on a thin threaded stud, separated from the stud by a plastic sleeve and from each other by a collection of fibre washers?
This is the most unreliable part of the Rita. :( When you come to reassemble it, have:-

. Either a snap connector exactly like this and either four standard 3/16" (4.7 mm.) o.d. bullet terminals or four like this. If you experience difficulty obtaining the particular snap connector, one can sometimes be found making the rear lamp connections, for which three single snap connectors can be substituted.

. Or two "Japanese bullets", sockets and insulations.

... depending which you get, I will be pleased to advise a more-reliable connection in place of the original Rita one.

pick-up
resistance of the coil is 280 Ohm.
It appears a little high (normal resistance is ~200~250 Ohms) but shouldn't be a problem. I would check the resistance with another meter, in case a failing battery on the first meter is the reason for the 'high' reading.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
 
#10 ·
The lady is on fire!!!!

Particularly check the continuity of the Black/White and Black/Yellow wires between the pick-up and the amplifier
There was some sort of continuity, apparently the wires were too short at some point and the PO fixed it using 1cent spade connectors without isolation.
They were totally corroded and close to turning into dust.
After replacing the wires and connectors I did my standard starting ritual, one kick and running like it used to.

Although the bike itself is untouched, the wiring loom is original with some fantasy additions.
All connectors are taped, I now know why. They (I guess the PO, not Triumph) used connectors without isolation.

All visible ones are now replaced with new isolated connectors!

Thank you all for your help and suggestions!

I will be pleased to advise a more-reliable connection in place of the original Rita one
Yes please! My first project for next winter.

Thanks again,

Edward
 
#11 ·
Triumph used the soft plastic "boots", if you will, on their connectors...........these can split and deteriorate over the years. The P.O. may have taped them for security reasons, or they just "went south" and had to be taped.
Just a thought from the "village idiot": Jim
 
#14 ·
Had a similar problem with my bike. Corroded spade connectors from the Boyer backplate. Ended up soldering the connections & sliding heat shrink over joins.
 
#15 ·
Hi,

Corroded spade connectors from the Boyer backplate. Ended up soldering the connections & sliding heat shrink over joins.
Errrm ... already covered in the thread are: it's a Rita (which doesn't use spade connectors to connect the trigger unit) and Edward The OP has posted he's checked the standard connections and not found any corrosion.

Soldering the trigger unit connections means they have to be cut and the wires shortened every time the trigger unit has to be removed. Fine for a B-B, when you can get a new trigger unit from the maker when the wires on the old one get too short; new Rita trigger units might not be available.

Otoh, I've had two Rita trigger units connected by bullet-'n'-snap-connector for 35 years without any problems whatsoever.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#16 ·
After measuring everything multiple times and drawing the conclusion that it can't be the wiring any more I decided to leave it for a while and spend some time on my cars. Serviced the Spitfire, replaced the headlining in the Lotus.

Then time to go back to the bike.

For some reason I looked in the bag of spares from the PO.
Contained plugs, coils some small stuff and a .......ignition lock.
Replaced the ignition lock with the spare one did my start-up ritual, one kick and running again.
Went for a ride, let her cool down, one kick and she runs!

I did have some power dips in the past and she sometimes did stall when running idle.
Could the lock have been the bad spot all the time?
It looks like the dips are gone and she runs idle now at 800rpm.

But most importantly, it was the first day of the year I had great fun riding the bike.
I hope it's fixed now, lets enjoy the thing again.

Thanks for the help!

Edward
 
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