Okay, so If you've been riveted to my previous posts, you'll know It's started and running. But now when I kick start it, it won't start and it feels like it misses on the down stroke of the kick start pedal. The pedal moves down, but no sounds from the engine other than the gears. I don't hear the pistons moving or anything out of the exhaust pipes. Any suggestions??
Clutch is not engaging.Could be needing adjustment at the springs.Check there is a little play at the handlebar lever.I assume you are not pulling the clutch lever in when trying to start it.
Rambo's probably right, or at least that's my vote.
Unless I missed something in your other posts: after reassembling a long-disassembled engine, you got the valve train working and got the electronic ignition timed, but I'm assuming you reinstalled the old clutch plates? While you've removed the primary cover to check the springs and pressure plate runout, it might make sense to remove and degrease the plates (brake cleaner if you're in a hurry, boil them in simple green/murphy's oil/dish soap if you're able). Even if the clutch is properly adjusted, oily friction plates (even if they look dry) can slip against engine compression. [citation: frustratingly embarrassing personal experiences of slow learning.]
And, sorry if you've already covered this as well, but: it would also be wise to check your valve adjustment.
I get a similar sort of problem with my 1970 T100 if I leave it sitting for a long period of time (several weeks). There is resistance on the kickstart lever as it's being pushed down but it goes down as if it's moving through treacle - the pistons don't move at all. I usually get a couple of kicks like that and then things return to normal (i.e. the kickstarter turns over the engine). I think that the oil on the clutch plates needs cleaning/scraping off by the first couple of kicks, then the friction grip seems to return. At some point I'll strip the clutch and clean up the plates, but for now it's just a minor annoyance that I can live with.
Hope that helps
Tony
Hi Okie, Ok sorry I didn't study photos sooner. From the cyl fin count & the breather hose & valve covers looks like you have a very early production 1973 TR7RV motor. So use the 1973 parts book & shop manual for engine.
You want to adjust valves intake .008", exhaust .006". That is factory for that motor & tends to work best. That being said as long as you have any valve clearance motor will start.
Almost certain you are getting clutch slip. Don't take anything apart yet.
On this motor primary & clutch share engine oil. The oil is most important. That cannot be over stated. It must be wet clutch compatible oil. Car oil will cause your symptom & clutch slip will get worse with use. Not all brands wet clutch oil works the same. Personally I find Mobil1 v-twin 20-50 is really good for clutch operation. Allows easy release & does not cause slippage. Others have good results with different brands, but again get an oil that specifically states for wet clutch motorcycles.
I've found if you put car oil by mistake you can drain, primary, eng sump, tank. Then refill with correct oil. In about 20-50 miles the clutch seems to cure it self. I've found that in a few bikes in the last few years. Didn't have to take apart & clean plates. So far all were corrected by just the oil change. If plates are indeed worn out, that's a different situation.
The shop manual is wrong on primary oil fill. Just put in 250cc for now. It will go down & end up back in tank, so expect tank to rise, but 250cc it will help flush plates. Primary is self leveling but it takes several miles to level. This will get you on the road though.
That being said, start with clutch adjustment. Looking at your photos the clutch cable makes a sharp bend at transmission. That can tend to cause cable binding. It's probably better to route cable upwards along right end of intake valve cover, along top of engine & out on left side of gas tank along steering head. If you need to zip tie cable do it loosely such that cable can "float" & find it's own tension free path as much as possible. You need to verify cable moves very freely with no binding whatsoever. If you need a new cable ONLY get a Barnette. They seem to be the only ones strong enough for 750 clutch springs long term. I have specs for cable length for my bike which might be good for your bars also??
Read over clutch adjustment in manual. After verifying cable is good, start by backing off bar adjuster until lever has a good 1/2" play.
Then remove cover from center of primary. Back off lock nut several turns. Now turn adjuster screw in & out a turn or so until you get the idea of what the free play feels like. The screw should turn very freely, then run in until it just stops. Manual says until plate lifts, but I don't like to do it that way. Now it is in until just stops. Again verify you have free play at lever. If no lever play, back lever adjuster off more until you have lots of play & start over. Now the screw is in just touching & you have lever play. Back screw out 1/2 turn. Now tighten lock nut. I mark screw with felt pin such I can verify the screw didn't loose adjustment during lock nut tightening.
Then adjust free play at lever. Looking at lever give it about 1/32-1/16" play a gap front side of lever to perch. The play will increase with hot motor. You can fiddle with lever play later, but this will get you going.
Look at the plug on cover. Sometimes on 750s the adjuster screw is too long & hits the plug. Can even wear hole in plug. If needed remove screw & cut screw short on slot head end. Then recut slot with hacksaw. Never cut smooth end.
If you have to remove clutch I have specs on clutch stack height & what overall wear might be installed. You'll need a Vernier caliper to measure. If you don't have one, you can get cheap online or Harbor Freight. Digital is easier to read, but old school is perfectly fine & doesn't need batteries.
Again don't take clutch apart or buy anything until you verify cable operation, clutch adjustment, correct oil.
Don
Aways helps to verify that the clutch lifting mech is all the way home before adjusting the pressure plate screw. Simply remove the adjusting screw and give the clutch rod a firm tap with a punch. Then adjust as described.
Rod
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