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Stuck Clutch

14K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  GrandPaulZ 
#1 ·
It's me again with the 1972 Daytona that has been sitting for awhile. Now the clutch is stuck. I have tried rolling it and popping into gear with no luck. Anny suggestions?
 
#2 ·
Get to an open road or open area and start the bike.

Push it briskly, jump on and drop it in gear, ride away.

Immediately pull the clutch in and blip the throttle till it frees up.

If you see that you are running out of space, hit neutral and turn around, repeat. It should free off.

Only other option is to open the primary cover, remove the pressure plate, and separate the plates.

Soak plates in solvent or gasoline, clean thoroughly and allow to dry. Re-install dry.

Use 10W30 Castrol in the primary.
 
#3 ·
one brutal way that i had to resort to a number of years ago ( i was at the Isle of Man TT) was to get the bike on the centre stand start the bike with the rear wheel off the ground - then stab down oh the rear brake pedal - may take a few tries - keep the engine running - a few extra revs may help - However that was an "emergency " and not recommended -- what you need to do is strip out the clutch plates and clean them
 
#5 ·
Hi Nasaman, What oil are you using? That is probably the root cause.

If you still have a 1972 motor, the engine & primary share oil.

Removethe clutch rod adjusting plug. Pull lever & measure how far the pressure plate moves. If you have Vernier caliper use it. If not measure with ruler best as you can. Get back to us. If you are lacking rod movement that is a problem. If rod movement good it's the oil. If you can break them free & get good oil you may not need to take clutch apart. Is bike safe to take for a 100 mile ride once clutch is free?

With good oil bike can sit for 30+ years & clutch will free without issues. I've seen this several times. A few good kicks & it's free. I just checked my Tiger Cub due to this thread. Been sitting since 1979! Clutch freed almost instantly. Cub is finally out of storage, but I've not resumed restore yet.
Don
 
#6 ·
This clutch sticking seems to be an issue in the USA in particular.Got mine out yesterday and after a start up,it went into first with not even a crunch.It did improve a little with all new plates last year.Never had a clutch stick using any make of 4T oil.Never any condensation in the primary either.
 
#8 ·
Wire or tape the clutch lever against the handgrip.....Let it sit over night and try again...I have had them refuse to release despite being rude and had to disassemble the clutch......Yes, the oil might be an issue
 
#11 ·
Not a bad job

I pull the primary cover at least every year on my current bike and have done so with Brit bike I have ever owned. Your primary shares oil with the motor so great time to change that also. You may have to make a tool for the clutch nuts, an old flat chisel or scraper can be made to work with a slot cut in it. Whole job should take a couple hours at the most, of course depending on what the plates and fiber discs look like, you may be waiting on some parts. I would have a new primary gasket on hand at a minimum, I use the heavy duty style and usually get a couple of changes out of one. Good luck, you will enjoy the process of bringing the "Old Girl" back......
 
#12 ·
I also have the primary cover off once a year to check around and clean out any clutch material sitting in the case.Good chance to check chain rollers and teeth on the clutch drum and engine sprocket.
Once you have freed that set of plates,it might run well next time out if not left too long.
As said here,it might pay to pull the lever in half way when laying up for an extended period.Just bind it half way with a length of copper wire or cable tie.
 
#13 ·
any resolution of this by original poster? Surprised to find today I am having same issue with '72 Daytona. Cable is good. Was put away in Nov with no issues..It has been cold; tomorrow is first really warm day so will get it out again and work the lever and maybe tape it up for some time - was thinking running the bike till very warm might help heat the whole works and help also...Sure was ready to roar up the road when this stopped me tonite....lol
 
#15 ·
Hi Dave,

any resolution of this by original poster?
Sure was ready to roar up the road when this stopped me tonite
Wol's method detailed in post #3 is the one I use when necessary.

If I don't use a bike for a month, I at least turn the engine over a few times with the kickstart, so things like the valve gear, clutch plates, gears, etc. aren't left in the same relative positions for months on end.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#17 ·
I bet you didn't know this but it is: National Save Your Clutch Cable Month.

If you wish to take the tension off of the clutch plates for a period of time, remove the clutch rod access plug, loosen the lock nut and take a couple of turns on the screw lifting the outer plate. Then when you are ready to use the bike turn the screw out so it has 1/2 turn clearance on the rod and tighten the lock nut. You should be checking the clutch rod adjustment as part of your routine maintenance anyway.

And while you are at it put some waterproof grease on the clutch nipple where it pivots in the lever. Yes, Martha they make waterproof grease. We sold it in our motorcycle store. If your dealer hasn't got the memo, go to the nearest bicycle store. One brand name is Phil Wood waterproof grease.

Now be sure not to use that grease too often. I don't want to loose ALL of my cable sales:frown2: I need some money to keep feeding the cats...
John
 
#20 ·
Yes it works now. I got my daughter to push me down the driveway slope until I got going a bit and with the clutch lever pulled in I popped it into first gear. It took a few feet but it all finally broke loose and seems to be working fine now. I tried to adjust the clutch but could not break the nut loose through the little access port. So I have new disks and plates to put in and will pull the cover when I get a chance.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I tried to adjust the clutch but could not break the nut loose through the little access port.
OK, fair enough. This is how you do it. Using a 3/8" drive socket on the nut. Put the shortest extension you have on the socket (2-3" long). Put the 3/8" ratchet handle on the extension. Adjust it so the handle is level to the ground, or one or two clicks up from level. Rap the ratchet handle with the handle of the biggest screw driver you have. It is the shock that frees up the nut!!!!! You have to put very little pressure on the ratchet handle as you rap the handle.

To tighten the nut: Place a screw driver through a 3/8" drive socket. Put the screw driver blade in the screw slot and the socket on the loosened nut. Adjust the screw giving you 1/2 turn clearance on the rod. Run the loosened nut up on the screw by turning the socket with your fingers getting it as tight as you can. Then remove the screw driver from the socket and replace it with a short 3/8" extension and a 3/8" ratchet Handle. Continue tightening the nut until you start turning the clutch basket. Then using that same large screw driver hit the ratchet handle with the plastic screw driver's handle. A couple of sharp raps is all you will need.

I bet you didn't know that Today is National Hand Impact Wrench day. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG
After acquiring a few essential hand tools and a decent vice the next tool you MUST buy is a hand impact wrench. It is one of the most handy tools you will ever purchase, and all for as little as $15.00. I was reading a thread where one of those hidden posidrive screws inside and inner transmission cover on a Triumph was so tight that the head stripped out he tried to remove it. On the first sign that a screw is so tight that you risk stripping out the head you should reach for your hand impact wrench. Of course instead of the alternative "last chance" effort of drilling off the head with a drill larger than the diameter of the head allowing the cover to be removed, or simply stopping before the head was stripped of its slots and using a hand impact wrench, the owner reached for the drill and easy out which was summarily broken inside the screw.

Now for $12.95 all this could have been avoided.

Now speaking of of shock may I offer some advice which comes from some hard learned experience, breaking a stuck clutch by riding the bike off the stand with the engine running and the bike in gear can create enough shock to break things. Expensive things.
 
#23 · (Edited)
hand impact vs Dewalt cordless

My hand impact driver is also a favorite since 1972. Inexpensive replacement bits are available for it still. Lately, I frequently use my Dewalt DC825 3/8 drive cordless impact driver. I used the hand impact on the clutch adjustment nut using a deep-well socket yesterday, because I wanted to loosen it; not remove it. Bob
 
#24 ·
Running on the stand/popping into first/hitting brakes a few times did the trick...:doublethumb. Also adjusted the clutch as described above :bow took a few tries to get it just right but it is quite good now.. btw a brick under the rear tire kept it from turning when breaking the adjustment nut loose/re-tightening.fwiw. Rode off rattling windows in the neighborhood...:ride
 
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