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T160 clutch ramp BBs.

2K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  Tricky-Dicky 
#1 ·
Anyone substituted the 6mm BBs for say 8mm BBs to try and achieve slightly more lift/disengagement?
Only managed to find two 8mm BBs so i cant try it at the moment.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply, but unfortunately i cant seem to get any results when searching using the expected key words and your user name, and your posts only go back to 200, any idea what the thread was entitled?
 
#4 ·
Well i managed to find another 8mm BB and the verdict is.........not a lot of difference, despite the slight change in the ratio between the 6mm and 8mm it still makes very little difference to my disengagement,
i am now suspecting the plate, i have a pull type hydraulic cheap Chinese slave fitted, which seems to work fine, and the movement is just the same as with the lever and cable, but its still dragging badly when static/engine off.
I do realise due to the engine not being run for years it may just be contamination, but i have a sneaking feeling its the plate that has too much run out, just want ted to try and start it before delving into the clutch.
 
#5 ·
Hi,

Well i managed to find another 8mm BB and the verdict is.........not a lot of difference,
Why would the diameter of the balls make any difference to the amount of lift? They're 6 mm. (or 8 mm.) whether they're at the bottom of the ramps or the top of the ramps, you'd only get more lift if they expanded along the way.

i have a pull type hydraulic cheap Chinese slave fitted, which seems to work fine, and the movement is just the same as with the lever and cable,
What "movement is just the same as with the lever and cable" - there are levers with at least three different pivot-centre-to-nipple-centre distances - for the same lever angular movement, the greater centres distance pulls more cable and gives more lift at the clutch.

The original T160 clutch lever was 1" pivot-centre-to-nipple-centre; unfortunately, many owners/dealer parts persons looked no further than the Triumph part number, which is the same as the earlier 7/8" lever fitted to the twins and singles (different Amal number), which can and does cause problems. If a correct T160 lever isn't available, a pattern one with 1-1/16" pivot-centre-to-nipple-centre is better.

If you've measured your hydraulic clutch lift against a cable lever with only 7/8" pivot-centre-to-nipple-centre, that's likely at least one of your problems.

Regards,
 
#6 ·
I have only worked on one T160 (rebuilt the engine and got it running/setup ) -- getting the clutch adjusted so it works is a real pain in the bum - after reading up as much as i could find i adjusted it to the book then readjusted it (slightly) until it worked - the more you play with it the better you understand it - final adjustment was a bit of a compromise - seem to recall the 6 or 8 mm question and general opinion was stick with 6mm
 
#7 ·
!



Yes you can say that again, however i am starting to suspect that my problem lies in the clutch itself, and friction plate run out in particular, for some reason i had it in my head that the clutch ramp combined with the larger ball would provide slightly more lift...doh!

Clutch lever pivot to nipple was 1" dead, not sure just how much difference 1/16" would make by the time you dial in cable stretch etc.
I measured the movement at the actuator arm with both cable and hydraulic pull cylinder, and it was the same, although i am inclined to think that there may be some initial loss of movement, personally i am inclined to think the major design flaw is in the actuators overall movement, if its range could be improved i think its would go a long way to solving drag problems, given that your at the mercy of the single friction plates trueness.

Anyway i think it will be a case of diving into the clutch and probably replacing the friction plate, and see how true the basket is, but i think i will finish the bike and at least get it started, then i can check the compression again to see if its a stuck ring or its in need of a re-bore, so if that's the case i can just bring it inside again and sort it all out in the warm.
 
#8 ·
Just done some more measuring and testing, and the verdict is....be very careful when buying Chinese master cylinders from ebay, now i have used lots of different stuff manufactured in China, in fact about 70% of components are now manufactured there.

Anyway i should have checked more carefully as the brake and clutch master cylinders i bought where only using 14mm pistons rather than 17mm, i presumed they would be 17mm as they where advertised for larger sport bikes with pics of 750+ bikes with multi piston calipers...more fool me!

Anyway the upshot is that i have tried a decrepit old 17mm piston master cylinder on both brake and clutch, and as expected the brake feel is far better due to the ration being changed, and just as importantly
the clutch is now releasing fully, it seems that the extra ratio has allowed for just enough extra movement, despite my prior measurements, so i new set of controls is now being ordered.
 
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