Hi Rocky,
I understand if I deviate from standard parts, I'll need to supply Australian ADR paperwork with aftermarket hoses.
You're very lucky. There's a guy in Melbourne who not only rides similar old Brit. heaps to the rest of us but runs his own hydraulic hose business. He can supply anything you want and the ADR paperwork to go with it; talk to Nigel on 0488 793 303, tell him Stuart from IKBA sent you.
Turning to what you might or might not want; the front end of my T100 is essentially the same as your bike's; I'll tell you what I did, you can decide if any of it's any use to you:-
. Don't buy new rubber hoses. I'm not sure that AP (Automotive Products) still make 'em (e.g. they don't make the master cylinders) and, even if they did, you or someone else'd be looking at changing 'em in ten years' time.
. Worst case, you can reuse the existing steel hoses and just replace the rubber hoses with braided; if you want the braided to look similar to original rubber, braided is available covered with coloured plastic and black is one of the colours.
. Another plastic option is clear, so the bling can be seen.
However, whatever parts you get made in stainless braided hose, I strongly advise against braid not covered with anything; if it rubs against anything else, the braid'll cheerfully work its way through that "anything else".
This is particularly important if you don't use the standard hose brackets on the top yoke, lower yoke and slider.
. On the T100, I have used the aforementioned brackets, because I wanted the pipework to look 'not dissimilar' to the standard stuff. However, if you do this also, bear in mind:-
.. braided hose itself is relatively inexpensive, it's the end fittings that cost;
parts missing,
pipe support bracket (83-7064).
.. the "pipe support bracket" must be fitted and "fork leg/caliper pipe (60-4178)" must either remain or be replicated in stainless 'bundi' pipe - the bends between the bracket and caliper are considerably smaller than the minimum recommended for standard -03 (diameter) braided hose;
.. otoh, if you decide on braided hose from lower yoke direct to caliper, neither 83-7064 nor 60-4178 are required. :thumb
. Pay the extra for stainless end fittings. Plated or (blue-'n'-red) anodised ally looks crap after a few years; otoh, I have 30-year-old Goodridge stainless fittings that look exactly the same as new ones.
. I haven't used the combined pressure switch and banjo bolt. On both T100 and T160's, I like the front brake hose out of the master cylinder to mirror (roughly) the line of the clutch cable out of the clutch lever, irrespective of how high or low the handlebars are. At present, the T100 has Triumph pre-'73 US-market (aka 'Western'?) 'bars, one T160 has TSX 'bars and the other has Norman Hyde 'M'-bars. Also, hoses straight out of master cylinders allow you to swap between high and low 'bars far easier than if a banjo bolt's involved. :thumb
. Nevertheless, all three bikes use the standard Lucas hydraulic pressure switch. Triumph part-numbered it 60-7155 but original Lucas supplied it for innumerable contemporary British vehicles; if you Google "lucas 2sh34619", the world is awash with them.
. On the T100, I mounted the pressure switch in the standard brass 'T'-piece; again, Triumph part-numbered it 60-7176 but the piece itself is widely-available. I mounted the switch in the 'T'-piece as shown in in '79-on parts books' "Front Brake" diagrams, however:-
.. instead of the "Pipe - 'T' to middle lug", the hose to the caliper pokes through the lower yoke stanchion clamp eyebolt and the 'T'-piece is screwed directly on the end of the hose;
.. instead of the "Pipe - top lug to 'T'" into the horizontal inlet of the 'T', there's just another piece of braided hose from the top yoke hose bracket.
parts missing, including the top yoke to bottom yoke tube (60-4176),
60-4176 is the master-cylinder-to-top-yoke hose that you're discarding/replicating anyway, "top yoke to bottom yoke tube" is 60-4179. If you follow my advice about the pressure switch location, you won't need it anyway.
However, I did what I did on the T100 because it's (probably
) unlikely I'll fit a second disc and, even if I did, hacking up bits of hose to reuse them and/or the end fittings is easy for me. Otoh, because you have to have ADR paperwork, if a second disc is a possibility in the future, say and I'll suggest a different way of doing the braided hoses now, that'll be easier to change for the second disc as-and-when.
what mechanism trips the rear brake light, and how would this be achieved using aftermarkets?
As standard, it's that Heath Robinson press-button switch by the rear brake lever, pressed/released by the bolt/locknut on the lever.
Your bike has the same rear brake parts as T160's. On mine, I've junked all the pipework between master cylinder and caliper for a single piece of braided hose; T160 with ally rear caliper has a banjo and bolt to fasten the hose to the caliper, T160 with original steel caliper has a 90-degree 'elbow' and male/male adapter to fasten the hose to the caliper because a banjo won't allow the chromed cover to be refitted.
First one I did, I left the standard rear brake lamp switch. Second one I did, I contrived a mounting for the aforementioned standard Lucas pressure switch based on what Les Williams made for the T160-based "Legends" he built. I'm not about to describe it here, it's convoluted and I don't think you can buy some of the bits I used. Nevertheless, when I can find the pictures of it, I'll post 'em.
When I return to the T160 without a rear brake pressure switch, I have in mind that I'll use a Goodridge 5099-03C ...
... with the aforementiond combined banjo bolt/pressure switch into the master cylinder.
Hth.
Regards,