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Remove the spark plugs, put the bike in gear, pull the clutch in and try rolling it back and forth. It should roll with little drag. If it won't roll, the clutch plates are stuck together. With the clutch lever pulled in and the bike in fourth gear, roll the bike back and forth vigorously. If the clutch breaks free, great, put the plugs back in and try a ride. If not, you will need to pull the primary cover, remove the pressure plate and pry the plates apart. Sand the plain plates with coarse sandpaper to get some tooth....better to blast with coarse or medium garnet. Lightly sand the friction plates to break the glaze. Oil and reassmble. The clutch rod freeplay is about 10 thou....bottom the adjuster lightly and back off about a third of a revolution and lock the nut. The clutch spring nuts should have two or so threads showing inside the nut, the stud should not come up to the surface of the nut. Pull in the clutch and see if the plate lifts evenly...hold it in and kick over slowly. Screw in the nut or nuts closest to the high spot a little at a time until it runs true. Cover on and go. If you can't get any lift, then the problem is in the gearbox cover, either the lifter mechanism is shot or the nut on the end of the mainshaft has backed off and takes the lifter's thrust. While in there, the shifter pawls are retained by cotter pins and they really are too small in diameter. Remove them and drill out the pawl carrier to the next size pin. Get the bigger cotter pins and install them. That will improve your shifting, too.
Top up the lubes you've let out. I'd use synthetic oil, like Amsoil or Royal Purple. Put ATF in the primary case, it's made for wet clutches.
Plugs back in and go.
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Triumph old, Triumph new, any Triumph will do.
Last edited by Mecchanica : 01-23-2008 at 03:02 PM.
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