Hi, can anyone please tell me the correct method of tensioning the aluminium block that holds on the front axle?
In disassembly I noticed that one of mine was cracked , and this is not the first time and they are expensive little suckers. So I need a way to stop them cracking please. I have 2 inch oversize forks if that makes any difference
Also does anyone know the correct torque setting of the sprocket nut? And how to fit all those rubbers in the clutch drive?
Many thanks in advance
Austin
And this is exactly why your axle cap is broken. 'Fraid the figure is absolutely, totally, completely, WRONG.
It is, however, a common arn 25 ft.lb. is correct for the steel sliders fitted to all the 500's except the T100D and pre-'71 to everything else. Unfortunately, the figure was carried over to '71-on 250, 650/750 and triples' workshop manuals without correction, eventually being corrected to 15 ft.lb. :thumb in, I think, the '78 workshop manual.
Nevertheless, imho a torque wrench and a workshop manual is not a substitute for a Mk.1 human eyeball operated by common sense. There is a fcuking great gap between the cap and the slider; when you remove either cap, the axle has a indentation that two of the four studs are in, locating the axle laterally ... for what do you need any torque setting? As Marc does advise correctly:-
... fwiw, I bought my first T160 brand-new in 1977 and, because of the collapse of NVT, it was years before the manual for it appeared (not counting the Haynes Bumper Joke Book); I still have the bike, with its original axle caps ...
Like much of what is the the factory manuals I suppose.
Well don't blame me, those numbers came from the factory repair manual.
Front Wheel Spindle Cap Bolts 25ft.lbs.(3.5kg.m.)
But thanks for correcting me and giving him the correct figure.
The title says Bonneville Special which is a 1979 or 1980 model. You need to check the later Service Manual which lists 15 ft. lbs. I wouldn't torque them to 15 either. Just snug them up, When getting replacements make sure to get the billet ones they are more expensive but stronger than the cast ones.
Never torqued those nuts and my caps are still not split.I tighten lightly with a small spanner and use locking washers under the nuts.Being that they are not tightened ridiculously hard,i check for tightness every time out.None have ever unscrewed even after fitting stainless nuts a few years ago.The old nuts had the benefit of rust holding them in.
Any shade tree mechanic looking at this closely would determine too far of a gap & over-tighten.
Mine failed after repeated removals- work hardened?
Low ft/lbs torque readings anyway should be relegated to 'feel', snug it up - sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof. . .
:surprise:
Thanks for some excellent responses and insights.. I shall tighten with a light touch, and check regularly )
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