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Soon To Be Triumph Owner

8K views 122 replies 21 participants last post by  o1marc 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,

I'm shopping for my first Triumph. I've been riding since I was 17 and I'm now 58 (but still think I'm 17).

My best friend had a Trident when we were kids and I wanted a Triumph since then. He sold it a few years back and I wish I had purchased it.

Now I'm looking for one of my own. I'm looking at a complete bike that is in original condition and just needs some cleaning up and new maintenance.

I'm pretty good with tools as I've restored a classic car and rebuilt a 30 foot fishing boat.

Any suggestions on year and model? I think I want a Bonneville and I have my eyes on a 79.

Are there years that I should stay away from? Years that I should be looking for? Are there things that I should be looking at specifically to have the best chance at getting a good bike?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 ·
Welcome to the club, Norcoastal. Please specify your location. And I first fell in love with the Triumph in high school in 1968 as a teenager and recently purchased my very first one. I love it dearly. You'll get great advice here from several members who have several decades of Triumph experience under their belts. Please read the article entitled Waking The Sleeping Beast.

Enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 8))

And review this article on Triumph part numbers.
 
#3 ·
Oh, and two tool sets are highly recommended for working on older Triumphs. And DO NOT use phillips head screwdrivers. Rather get yourself a set of posidrive bits from DeWalt, set # DW2069 and there'll be no ifs ands or buts on this one.

You'll also need a three-wrench set of spanners for working on the carbs and the spanners, the best quality and called Whitworth Spanners, for that purpose are manufactured by of all things KING DICK, sizes 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16. Snap-On also carries those spanners but at greatly inflated prices.
 
#18 ·
As Marc said, the 60's - '70 are the most collectible and valuable, BUT in actuality the '70's bikes are better bikes to own and ride for a number of reasons: value, improvements (5 spd vs. 4), OIF frame is actually stiffer and handles slightly better, later '70's have electric start, 750cc, front disc brake, etc. If riding is more important than collecting and getting the "ooo's and ahhhh's", I'd recommend a '70's model.

Avoid early OIF's though, they had weld problems in the large oil tube frame member......

I was very anti-OIF for years, but having owned & ridden (hard) a '72 OIF for 6 years, I love the bike....

Good luck in your search, and keep us posted!

GN
 
#5 ·
1979 is a great model year if you're looking for a rider and not a collector item. Disc brakes front and rear, ei, better alternator, 5 speed, better head and carbs and other improvements. You won't need any British type wrenches (commonly called whitworth but not really) on a 79. By then almost everything on them was SAE so you can use your good old 'merican wrenches.
 
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#8 ·
Welcome my friend. I would have liked a late 60,s model but the prices on this side of the pond were a little salty for me. I bought a 75 T140 and I,m very pleased, now I,m going to ride...play with it...ride. The later models can be a very good daily rider as htown 16 touched on and are priced generally lower. Good luck
 
#12 ·
I prefer right foot gearchange but you might be more used to the left changing bikes.I also prefer the taller frame of the 71 year and the frames did get a little lower in following years.T120/T140 or TR6/TR7 will be good for modern speeds.Easy enough to work on given that you would be used to old vehicles and repairs.If you are near Exmouth,i will lend you the engine tools when you break it !
 
#14 ·
I am moving back home to the NYC area, I'm a Jersey Shore guy but my job brings me to Westchester NY. I'm excited about all of the opportunities to be part of some great events in the area!

The bike that I'm looking at is on eBay and is in NJ. Anyone want to give me there thoughts on that bike? The price is now 2100. I'm willing to pay up to $4,000. Is that too much?
 
#16 ·
The bike that I'm looking at is on eBay and is in NJ. Anyone want to give me there thoughts on that bike? The price is now 2100. I'm willing to pay up to $4,000. Is that too much?
Give them the link to the auction and fill out your profile on the left so that in future we'll have a clue! :)
 
#19 ·
I'd personally suggest avoiding eBay bikes; try CraigsList in not only your area, but also surrouding/nearby areas within 100 miles of you ....you can actually see and touch the bike, perhaps ride it....and that's worth a 2 hour drive.

I drove 10 hours one way to get my '73 Trident, and it was worth it for sure.....drove 4 hrs. one way to find my '74 Trident, and hit the jackpot!

GN
 
#21 · (Edited)
Oil In Frame bikes started from 1971. As mentioned, the earlier ones had issues with cracks at the base of the tube. I don't know why anyone would not search eBay. If I'm selling something, Ebay gives you world wide market exposure and therefore more possible customers. You just have to know what you are looking at before plunking down hard earned cash. Ask lots of questions and ask for lots of photos. I had my KawaTon listed on Craigslist locally (Ga.) for months with no bites at all. I then listed it on CL in L.A. and got one response within the first hour. Unfortunately it was a comment about my asking price-"Is everyone in Dawsonville crazy, or is it just you.". I was told to list it on eBay, which I did, and it sold within 1 hour of posting at full asking price to a guy in Ct.
 
#23 ·
Nothing wrong with oif. As mentioned some very early ones 71 or so had cracking issure but later ones are fine. IMHO the OIF are the best handling because of the added frame stiffness.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Hi Guys,
Any suggestions on year and model? I think I want a Bonneville and I have my eyes on a 79.
This depends on a number of variables.

How many bucks do you want to drop?

Is your purpose faithful restoration or simply a rider?


The Triumph Classic Twins went through extensive development over many years.

If we focus on the main groupings you'll have:

  • 650 Pre Unit (separate gearbox) up to 1963.
  • 650 Unit Construction (gearbox housed in the cases) up to 1970.
  • 650 Oil in the Frame, 1971-72.
  • 750 Oil in the Frame, 1973 on.

Then there's single carb & twin carb (Bonneville) models.

Not a lot of difference in power, single carb enthusiasts have the advantage of simplicity, ease of maintenance and less parts expense.

These models encompassed many upgrades/improvements as time went on.

Earlier (pre OIF) are more collectable and consequently more expensive.

Later (OIF) were more powerful and technically improved.

Many improvements were added as time went on.

If you have unlimited money and want something rarer, go for a Pre Unit and restore it to original.

If you want an improved genre, very collectable, and arguably the pinnacle for Triumph, go for a Unit Construction, the technically best being 1970.

If you want a more or less technically sorted, cheaper to buy, and more powerful machine go for a late OIF.
The OIF's featured a number improvements over time.
Early OIF's have their admirers, but if you want to avoid parts headaches the 1977 to 1979 models were better sorted.

If you read through this you'll get an excellent overview of each model.

You might even spot what you're looking for.

http://www.classic-british-motorcycles.com/triumph-motorcycles.html


If you delegated your choice to me, this is what I'd get for you (the pinnacle).

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...h&q=1970+bonneville+650&imgrc=QVWLv0G9tdE_hM:
 
#29 ·
The bike in the listing looks tidy.
I bought my 88 Harris model unseen off an eBay listing. The pictures looked good and the seller had written a credible, honest sounding story about his ownership. The price was right, so I went for it. No regrets, sure it needed a bit of sorting out, but nothing too drastic.
At 79 it should have Veglia clocks, not the Smiths ones fitted so don't trust the mileage.
My 79 had the caliper above the swing arm rather than below, never was sure when that changed over.
 
#30 ·
Information Please

At 79 it should have Veglia clocks, not the Smiths ones fitted so don't trust the mileage.
My 79 had the caliper above the swing arm rather than below, never was sure when that changed over.

Veglia Gauges were introduced in 1978 due to Smiths supply problems. During the 1978 & 1979 model years both Smiths and Veglia units were used depending on availably. I even saw bikes with speedometer drives of one brand and gauges of the other. The time I would be suspicious is if there are two different brand of gauges used The T140D appears to have only used Veglia's.

As an aside there is another '79 T140E on eBay currently with Smiths Gauges that is nicer than the on in question here.:drool


The topside caliper was introduced with the T140D model. The earliest "official VIN " top side caliper T140E would have been XB24609 considered a 1979 1/2 model. However I believe the first T140E built with a top side caliper would have been PB25001 a '80 Model :Huh


K:nerd:
 
#32 · (Edited)
Hi,

I'm shopping for my first Triumph.
My best friend had a Trident when we were kids and I wanted a Triumph since then. He sold it a few years back and I wish I had purchased it.
Now I'm looking for one of my own.
I think I want a Bonneville and I have my eyes on a 79.
Why not a Trident? :confused: It'll cause apoplexy amongst many of this Forum's readers but the big twins are terrible boneshakers compared to triples. >:)
Read posts and threads by "gatornapper" and "Pjcordy" (as well as the contributions of this 'umble scribe) about their triples ... :grin2: If you Facebook, The Triumph Trident T160 Appreciation Society and the Trident & Rocket 3 Owners' Club.

Regards,
 
#34 · (Edited)
You guys have given me so much to think about and invaluable information. I've book marked the Triumph Guide, thank you!

I am looking everywhere now including Craigslist. There is actually a Trident in Pa on Craigslist for $3,500!

$4,000 is my limit (or should I say what my wife will allow me to pay without much ado), and I'm not locked in on any one bike. I know it must be a vintage Triumph. I "think" I want a 750, but again, not locked into any one bike.

I want something that i can work on, but nothing that is considered a bike that always had issues (OIF frame crack years).

I've owned Porsche 911's and some years are great and some years you need to stay away from. I want to stay away from the bad years.

Learning about something new is infectious. I, like most of you, have a sickness when it comes to things with engines. I love to work on them, ride them and enjoy them.

I'm really excited that I'm getting a new bike and I'm glad I found this forum.

THANK YOU! And I'll keep you posted.

Does this site have a for sale section?

If it does, I can't access it for some reason...
 
#35 ·
Does this site have a for sale section?

If it does, I can't access it for some reason...
The classified section becomes available after 25 posts and a certain time interval. Not that active though.
 
#38 ·
I also not only look at the seller feedback rating , but look at all the feedback left by previous buyers. Gives an indication of the sellers practices. Again, ask lots of questions, ask for detailed pics of anything that concerns you. For example, the 68 Triumph on eBay right now. From the listing it may not sound like a bad deal to the lay person. But those of us who have seen the number plates on it know it is an obvious scam. Good luck finding a nice Triumph and welcome to the addiction.
 
#40 ·
Nothing suspicious in the listing. Don't get excited over the low price, that's just where the bidding is now and it hasn't reached the sellers reserve. It may be $6K. I would message him and ask what his reserve is, if he would send a pic of the numbers on the frame, motor and title. Bidding usually spikes just before the closing of the auction, which still has 4 days to go. Says it has 10k miles, yet the speedo doesn't work, could have more mileage. Ask him why those don't work and when they stopped.
 
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