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Just drug home a 70 TR6? need a wiring diagram

15K views 102 replies 15 participants last post by  bob66542 
#1 ·
VIN is PD33479T120R. it is a single carb. it's been sitting in a barn since at least 2000. engine is free. My buddy and I drug it about 40 yards thru weeds over my head on a 100 degree Kansas day. after removing the seat and fuel tank, I can see it has some cooked wiring, So first I need a wiring diagram. went to your forum and the link for classicbikebiz has the owners manual, which has a lot of good info and a wiring diagram, but it says it is secured and I cant print it. does anyone have a pdf of this they could send me so I can print it? I went to the link for big D cycle, and they have the parts manual, which I printed out. This bike should be a good big brother to my 71 500! Thanks, Bob in Topeka
 
#4 · (Edited)
Different in what way as I haven't compared wiring diagrams between the two???? The workshop manual for my '72 TR6R doesn't show any differences between the two (EDIT) in terms of wiring (Tiger vs Bonneville and I know I know things can change at the factory) 0:)
 
#7 ·
The basic difference between the models is the T120R Bonneville having twin carbs, smaller gas tank and, possibly, a different lower triple clamp for tighter steering "lock" with the smaller tank. Not positive on the triple clamp for the T120, but it was used on the TR6C models with the smaller tank. If it's got the single carb head on it, then someone changed it to simplify things. It wasn't a bad idea, way back when, but now, Bonnevilles are up in value; but as far as a "rider" goes, the single carb does the job better. The wiring diagram for the TR6R and the Bonneville should be the same for 1970, but the '72 models had some differences: turn signals are the first thing to come to mind.


Correct me if I'm wrong, anyone: Jim
 
#10 ·
Kansas Kid


The best wiring diagram for the '70 I have found is in the back of the owners manual (use the U.S version). You have a T120R engine & if the frame numbers match you have a Bonneville not a TR6. Some one has changed the head.


In 1970 the TR6R & T120R used the same harness(it was also used on the low pipe 500twins) . The ONLY difference in the way the TR /T120R were wired has to do with the Twin horns on the T120R . The TR6C/T100C used a different harness as they also used a Kill Switch and a different Headlamp.


I will get you a diagram if no one else gets one posted


K
 
#11 ·
thanks for the quick reply's, guys. The Vin is the same on the engine and frame, and it just has 1 carb. I didn't know there were different heads, it has an intake manifold that bolts to the head and 1 carb, and it is a mikuni, so obviously that's not stock. it also has a later model front brake, at least, looks like pic's i've seen of the oil in frame bikes. I am no expert by any means on these bikes. I THINK it's the small tank, but it also has a handlebar with a brace, so who knows what's been changed on it in the past 46 years! TJ thanks for the link, but I was still unable to print the owners manual, I don't know if it's me or if they have it set up so it cannot be printed. I think that's the case, because I downloaded the pdf and it says "secured" on it. This will probably be a winter project for me, but my first move is to get the wiring straightened out so I can put a battery in it and find out what works and what dosen't, and see if i have spark.
 
#16 ·
Pull up an individual pic on your phone. On mine there will be a box with an up arrow on it in the lower left corner, click on it and it will bring up an options for "next", click on that and it brings up options to send it to "message', "mail", "iCloud", "twitter", "Facebook", or "flicker". pick one and send the pic to it. From there you can load them to a photo site such as Photobucket, etc. If you get that far I'll tell you how to get them posted here.
 
#20 ·
I upload an actual picture of the diagram. I think one of the diagrams is for the UK (Home) and the other is for everybody else (Export). Not sure what the difference is. When I wired my bike I think I used the export diagram.

If you look at your light switch that is on your headlight bucket, you'll see that the terminals have little numbers next to them. Then look at the diagram and you'll see numbers on the switch in the diagram. Just line them up with the appropriate colored wire in your wire harness. The wire diagram is pretty basic and leaves out a couple of circuits. I can only remember one of them and I think it was the one to the oil pressure switch mounted on the engine. Also on the original rectifier, I didn't know which terminal to connect the wires to. Anyway got it figured out eventually and if you need help just ask. My bike was a complete basket case when I got it and had no wiring harness on it to see how it came apart. If you can, take pictures of what you have before removing anything.....Gary
 

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#21 ·
Thanks, Code man I was easily able to print and then enlarge the wiring diagram you posted, it will be a great help. this bike is together, but it has some obviously melted wiring. I will try to figure out today how to get set up in Photobucket so I can send some pic's. Yesterday I sent an email to classicbike.biz to see what they charge to send me a pdf that I can print of the owners manual, but havent heard back yet. -Bob in Topeka.
 
#22 ·
OK, I just set up an account and managed to get a couple pic's to the photobucket site, now how do I get them here to the thread? It's hell to be old- rebuilding a carb or setting points? NO problem- but the simplest things for most people on a computer I just don't seem to savvy!
 
#23 ·
Two ways to post pics from Photobucket:

#1: Click on your picture. A box will appear with symbols. Click on the one that looks like a link of a chain. Click on "Direct Link."

In Triumphrat, open a reply. Click on the little yellow picture of the mountain. Paste your link there.



#2--right click on your picture. Left click on "Copy Image."

Open a reply in Trat. Right click in the box. Left click on "Paste." This method works for most pictures that you find on the web. That's how I did this--

 
#31 ·
Her tail light is from the same era as her forks.

Yea the chrome on the mounts were all the rage in the day.

Rattle can black works wonders! RustTough from KRYLON works great but take a good few days to fully cure.

Those mounts are available in reproduction form but you can also get originals on ePay with some patience.

It's a very good start for sure!
 
#32 ·
I appreciate any help in identifying what is correct and whats not on this bike- I'm not thin -skinned. I will try to post some more pictures tomorrow. Now i'm wondering if the gauges are later model and the headlight is '70. I also noticed this morning it has 1 or 2 broken fins on the head. they have been smoothed off and I somehow missed it when I was looking at it AND loading it. shame on me.
 
#34 · (Edited)
A 1970 would have forks like that but I think the tail light on that one is from 71 on too.

But I am only a step above the REAL Village Idiot so don't take my word. Someone smart will be along shortly to confirm the tail light dealio.




ETA

Some folks "upgraded" the front end to the newer set up for "better breaking" or other reasons.

I think a good number of us would want to restore her to all her 1970 original glory but she looks right decent as is and with some cleaning and scrubbing she should look quite presentable and ride-able!

I don't think any of us would throw rocks at you for leaving her as is.

Since you are going to have to strip her nearly naked to do a proper rewire you could clean her up and touch up the rust spots or go for the gusto and strip her completely and paint or powder coat the black bits and send the sheet metal bits out for paint.

OR you could ride her happily while you slowly accumulate all the proper bits and THEN do a proper restore.

The engine will need some special attention before attempting to start it up. Search "Waking the Beast" on this website and you'll find a link to a article to read carefully before attempting to crank her up.

My old gal sat unloved for too long and my thrill at her first rumblings quickly turned to tears of sorrow because her sludge trap was blocked and she almost immediately chewed up her big end bearings. The advice given in that article wouldn't have prevented it but it would have at least prepared me for the inevitability of that outcome.
 
#37 ·
I didn't do such a great job of posting the photos and text, but, hopefully, these will help you to find the info you need. The bike is "as original", not restored, just repaired, touched up, a bit of plating when needed, etc. This is how a '70 TR6R looked when it left the factory. Good luck with the project.
The "village idiot" was a bit O.C.D. about his bikes and cars: Jim
 
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