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Old 12-08-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Supersport 600
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: UK
Posts: 198
1969/70 ammeter T120/150

Now, i've just bought one of these and of course it doesn't seem to work, is there a common fault, are they rubbish..am I wasting my time? How, do you open up the clear plastic case, the bezel came off easy enough and it does look a little dirty in there, so I'm hoping a good clean will sort it out!
All help much appreciated
Cheers
BonnieT
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Old 12-08-2007   #2 (permalink)
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SuperBike
 
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The "vibrometer" is glued together. You could cut it apart and try to clean it, then use some model cement to glue it back together. But it's a fools mission. They are mostly good for filling the hole in the headlight shell and letting you know if the engine is running....if so, it will vibrate back and forth between somewhat charging to somewhat discharging. I'd just hook the two wires together on one pole and not worry about it. If you want one which actually works, get one of the aftermarket ones now available.
BTW.....if you have one which seems to do something odd at a particular RPM, it's probably not an electrical problem, but harmonic vibration. Try loosening the headlight mounting bolts a bit and compare the operation.
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Old 12-08-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Voltmeter

See voltmeter post in Brit Bike Forum. Much better
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Old 12-08-2007   #4 (permalink)
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my ammeter is for looks only, also. I had a few bikes that actually wired the ammeter, but once it starts to shake it will rock back and forth like an old speedometer that needs the cable lubed. To help eliminate the headligh, as well as the tail light, from vibration, I rubber mount them.(saves on cracking too) Also the coils might blow from vibration, I know, I rubber mount them as well.
p.s. I once had a broken needle in an ameter. I used a matchstick as a pointer, a little flat black paint. It never moved!
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Last edited by Red1959 : 12-08-2007 at 06:54 PM. Reason: additional info;
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Old 12-08-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Super Sidecars
 
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I had a '67 T120 with a bad ammeter. I did the usual bypass trick with both leads on one post. But after riding for a while and watching the needle bounce around, I knew it was only a matter of time before it would be broken and floating around inside the face. In my opinion a broken guage is like a pimple on the nose of an otherwise great looking bike. So I drilled a small hole in the side of the body beneath the face and near the needle. I injected black silicone sealer until I could just start to see it coming up around the needle area of the face. It was rock steady at all speeds and still looked great when parked.

Cheers, Bret @ Glass from the Past
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Old 12-12-2007   #6 (permalink)
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If and when you find a working ammeter, you can get the thing to stop bouncing the needle around by filling the ammeter with baby oil. Be sure that all the seams in the ammeter are sealed with glue or epoxy. Drill a small hole in the backside of the ammeter and use an eye dropper to put the oil in. Be sure to get all the air out before sealing the hole otherwise the resultant bubble will drive you nuts. When filled with baby oil, the needle moves smoothly and doesn't rattle around and doesn't break off. I have done this dozens of times on my customer's bikes. They love it.
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