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Oil Spewing-newbie

3K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  Beemie 
#1 ·
Hello folks. I found a pretty 76 Bonneville T140 in a barn 4 hours away. Brought it home yesterday and gave her a bath. Today I rode her around the block, needs a little touching and tweaking but solid nonetheless.

I went to open the oil cover after and oil spews out the top Yikes!!

What next guys? Is the sump not functioning?
 
#4 ·
Likely overfilled. Set to the 'full' mark when warm to hot. If set to 'full' when hot, guaranteed to have same result over and over.

You can easily verify the pump is pumping by removing the dip stick when engine is running and can see return into the frame tank. Steve
 
#5 ·
If you park slightly uphill,it will increase the likelyhood of oil leaking out when removing the cap.It will be overfilled and oil does expand and collect bubbles when hot,taking up more space.Bear in mind that there is very little oil in the sump.The oil just passes through and storage is in the frame.You might benefit from a factory manual and parts book and study how this engine works by reading any other books.The Clymer manual has some good explanations in it.
Another new member so welcome to the forum.
 
#6 ·
Hi Vangstang, Welcome to the group! Did you change or add oil after purchase? Some how it got extra oil in it.

Once you lower level. Take a road test. Recheck level. Then check next morning. Then after sitting a few days without running it check it again. The oil should not have mysteriously dropped on its own. If it did, don't add oil. Start it up & see if oil level comes back up. It's rare, but sometimes oil can leak by pump & end up in bottom of crankcase, which returns to frame after running a few minutes.

Also these bikes carry eng oil in the primary case. That oil level is self regulating after the initial filling. However, it is not exact. Low speeds lets more oil stay in chain case. Freeway riding lowers oil in chain chase. This change can be seen in the frame oil level. Changes about 1/4-1/2". Hot oil will rise 1/2-3/4". After a while you'll get used to seeing these normal changes & not worry about it.

Try to ride bike often as you can & change the oil a few times. This will get things settled in & will show any areas that may need unexpected attention. It is not uncommon for new oil leaks to develop on bikes that have been in storage. Just correct them as needed. I always change oil in frame, crank case, primary, plus clean screens every time. After the 1st few changes I change every 1000mi. Will be hard to beat Mobil1 v-twin 20-50. Works really good on these bikes & the clutch works really good with it also. Really good!!

Calipers don't leak that much, but brake master cyls. often leak after storage. Change the brake fluid in any case. Watch the rubber hoses for leaks or splitting. Brake fluid dissolves gas tank paint instantly so don't let any fluid get on paint.

A well sorted T140 is a really great riding bike.
Don
 
#8 ·
thanks so much guys. I'm happy to find this message board.

No I didn't add the oil, apparently is was worked on, per owner, 2 years ago. this is the first time I opened the oil cap. I got it for a steal so I didn't even haggle much for the bike. I test rode a few others that were more expensive and in worse shape so I gave him the cash and ran. :).

I've only had jap bikes so this thing is completely new to me.
 
#9 ·
What can and probably happened is if the oil is changed after sitting for a long time. oil can leak down from the tank into the sump.
The sump is not drained when the tank is drained, so when the tank is refilled the oil hiding in the sump causes the overfill condition.

Best to change the oil after running a bit to have the sump pumped out, not to mention to suspend the contaminants into the oil.
 
#14 · (Edited)
yes I have one that uses Trident filters . But any extra filtering ( like mine which is a MAP brand , a Charlies type filter which goes where the frame oil screen is or an external Norton type) is a good thing since there's none as built . I also use that Mobil1 V Twin 20/50 oil which is designed for air cooled twins with oily clutch . I hope my engine will last a good long while before needing a rebuild .

as far as the spilling oil ...just drain everything on the bike and start fresh ,then you'll know exactly how much of everything is in there .Better to know then to guess
congrats on the new bike
 
#11 ·
The easiest quick fix is a Charlie's filter that goes up inside the frame tube

Some people hate them. Generally, those who have never used one.

I had a similar episode to you. What can happen is that due to the frame design, if there is too much oil, it washes out the under tank tube. This is normally dry, but collects condensation and can be slightly rusty. So the excess oil stubs the rust flakes into the system

I have run a Charlie's since 84.
The original style top hat gauze is pretty rubbish, although later versions had a small solid ring around the bottom to collect gunk.
There is no loss of pumping due to an internal filter.
 
#12 ·
I have a Norton type external filter.It has the benefit of increasing the oil capacity a little and acts as an oil cooler.Changing oil this week and it looked very clear of particles.My oil taken out after a 30 mile ride was luke warm as usual and the maximum temperature it ever gets too is 53C.The oil is overcooled for the 20C ambient temperature here at the moment.I would not consider an oil cooler after taking temperatures of my own oil.I do have one fitted now which is out of any wind and operates if i manually work a fan switch.With hindsight,it never needs to be on.
 
#16 ·
Regarding V-twin oil causing leaks, I've not personally seen it make much if any difference. A work we often use synthetic in older cars, doesn't seem to make them leak worse either. For sure hot weather & freeway speeds will show any leaks that might be there. Still all the leaks can & should be repaired.

If one is willing & able to take the time these later bikes can be made leak free & they stay leak free for a good many miles. Put a good 500-1000 miles on bike to get things bedded in & sorted out. Don't let the bike ping on you. If you hear it at all, down shift & spin motor a little higher. Never ever lug the motor. Make a list of all things that may need attention & work the list down. If your bike still has points ignition it is very reliable if properly maintained. They also start good with well maintained points. Motobatt battery is very good, long lasting & has a large capacity. Plus they never leak acid. Always only use genuine Amal carb parts. Get a stay up float & viton tip alum. float needle. The old plastic ones go soft from ethanol fuel we have. The idle jets, passages in carbs are very hard to clean but doable. Look over Bushman's carb tuning site for a cut away view so you can see where the passages are. One set up the carbs are quite trouble free. I gave up on clear fuel lines. They get hard fast from our gas. If lines get too hard it can cause tank to crack. I just use the black rubber stuff from auto parts store. Lasts good.

Do what you want on oil, but lots of guys in the club run v-twin & engine life is very very good with it & again the clutch operation is very good with it.

Don
 
#18 ·
Do as we all do? Most of us are out breaking our bikes ! These bikes get glued to you for life and my T120 will live with me to the end.Don seems to have the longest ownership and Plewsey has around 30 years.Mine is 38 years but i had a break in the middle rebuilding my body..
Some ride hard and some ride long.The weekend,i am on a longish run with all makes but the majority have the Triumph twins.
Its going to be a life attachment to your bike and you will learn it all as bits fall off letting you know where to put glue next time around..I noticed Coloradobob was trying to kill his Trident this week and that my kind of riding.
Without starting up the oil choice,V-twin is a good one and not likely to cause leaks.
 
#19 ·
You guys using V Twin synthetic are lucky.

I've had mine 40 years now, since new, and the first try on that oil broke my heart causing a previously gasket tight engine to mess it's underbelly.

There are vintage vehicle oils that do the trick and have proper additives for the old bike and have not caused problems.

And then there's the 25 year old BMW. Same deal.

Both vehicles had original gaskets and seals when I went down that road. Maybe that is the difference.
Given the choice again, I wouldn't do it.
 
#22 · (Edited)
For one...http://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rod-high-performance/hot-rod-classic-car-20w-50-motor-oil
If you search classic car motor oil you'll find others as well as the reasoning.

Some will argue about car vs motorcycle oil, but my manual specs Castrol GTX (from old days) and that's a car oil, but a different thing than is made today....................
The "old" Castrol my have been made using zinc and phosphorous additives but without synthetic oil(s). As to the molybdenum, that's what Slick 50 is known for.

And if the Castrol product you cited isn't easily obtainable, then this Lucas Break-in additive could be the thing to use when mixed with conventional motor oil.
 
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