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| Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes. |
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08-12-2007, 01:49 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 311
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Front brake still not firm??
I took apart the front brake on my 70 TR6C because the lever was very mushy and I wanted to see how it worked. I got some advice from this forum and everything came apart OK. I cleaned everything up and put it back together. The front clevis was adjusted all the way in and I still have a long lever pull - over an inch at the bar and you need to pull it all the way to the bar to get it to engage. I also adjusted it at the bar -and still a long pull. What am I missing? Seems the cable is too long. Help -please.
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Not likely to die of natural causes
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08-12-2007, 01:53 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii, America\'s Pacific Paradise
Posts: 1,787
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The length of the connecting link should be 5.00" center to center. Pre-set that length and reconnect the link. Then try adjusting the cable.
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Triumph old, Triumph new, any Triumph will do.
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08-12-2007, 06:12 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
World SuperBike Favourite Bike: 2002 Triumph Trophy
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 2,040 Other Motorcycle: 1970 Triumph Tiger 650 Extra Motorcycle: 1999 Yamaha Virago 1100
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Tri 650,
Is this when you're riding the bike? Remember, the brake will feel "mushy" when you're not rolling. Mine will reach the handlebar if I pull it hard, but..that's how I've got it adjusted so that the tire won't "lock up"; it will only allow it to "squeal" a little bit. You're only dealing with a 3.25 cross-section tire and the progressive action of the long travel will give you a lot of control over the braking power. I don't dispute what Mecchanica said, but, the difference in brake shoes (wear etc.) and minor mechanical pieces in the brake itself could negate the pre-set measurement, even if you're re-using the old shoes. Once the adjustment of the "link" is set, it's all up to the cable. I'll guess that you've taken the "play" out of it with the adjuster that's built into the cable, and you have to remember that the front brake switch eats up a little of the movement. If the bike stops good, just that the cable, or lever, feels a little strange, remember it's not hydraulic and it's 40 year old technology.
Hope this helps: Jim
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Jim Ballard
The older I get, the faster I was....until lately!! (Speed IS the fountain of youth)!
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08-13-2007, 11:05 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 311
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Thanks. I am only comparing it to the 65 Bonnie I just sold for a buddy of mine. The front brake grabbed quickly - even at rest. And the lever only moved about 1/2 of an inch. I guess I will wait until I get the motor back in and take it for a ride - which may be awhile.
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Not likely to die of natural causes
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08-13-2007, 01:54 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
World SuperBike Favourite Bike: 2002 Triumph Trophy
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 2,040 Other Motorcycle: 1970 Triumph Tiger 650 Extra Motorcycle: 1999 Yamaha Virago 1100
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Yes, Tri,
I had a '66 and the single leading shoe brake did feel firmer, as I remember (but...it was a long time ago). The twin leading shoe is a whole different animal; also, the tls isn't as good holding the bike on a steep grade, i.e "backwards", as it's designed along the lines of a racing brake. Just be aware, that's all.
Get 'er running and ENJOY!!!! Jim
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Jim Ballard
The older I get, the faster I was....until lately!! (Speed IS the fountain of youth)!
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08-15-2007, 03:35 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Favourite Bike: '71 Norton Commando
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,068 Other Motorcycle: '07 Scrambler Extra Motorcycle: '71 BSA Victor B50MX
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Did you,by any chance,get a new perch and lever assembly?
 :
Cheers!
Bruce
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08-16-2007, 10:01 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 355
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if youve got one of the front brake cables with the built in switch, dump it for a new one without, centre the brake by squezzing it on befroe tightening the big centre bolt, then adjust the twin shoes to come on together...diconnect the arm to the rear shoe, use a spanner to turn the main shoe so its just rubbing, do the same with the second shoe, then adjust the rod, and refit the pin...better with 2 people...well set up these brakes are good, but if not only one shoe is really making good contact
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08-17-2007, 11:23 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 311
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Thanks. I will give that a try.
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Not likely to die of natural causes
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08-17-2007, 01:18 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
World SuperBike Favourite Bike: 2002 Triumph Trophy
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 2,040 Other Motorcycle: 1970 Triumph Tiger 650 Extra Motorcycle: 1999 Yamaha Virago 1100
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If your state requires the front brake to operate the brake light (as it came from the factory) you'll have to keep the switch in it, and it's not a bad idea from a safety point. I had to convince the young fellow who inspected my '70 that turn signals didn't come on that year's bike; so some of the inspectors can be "sticklers". As I said before, ride it first and see how it feels when you actually use it.
Don't mean to offend anyone: Jim
__________________
Jim Ballard
The older I get, the faster I was....until lately!! (Speed IS the fountain of youth)!
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08-17-2007, 09:30 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 355
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maybe you have to have a switch, but do it some other way...those switch inline cables are a disaster as they compress to operate the switch...seen more brakes "fixed" by replacing this with a good new chunky cable than I care to remember...apparently a custom made cable with a harley clutch outer is the go...see if you can graft in a universal japanese switch into the lever
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