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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 08-12-2007, 01:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Front brake still not firm??

I took apart the front brake on my 70 TR6C because the lever was very mushy and I wanted to see how it worked. I got some advice from this forum and everything came apart OK. I cleaned everything up and put it back together. The front clevis was adjusted all the way in and I still have a long lever pull - over an inch at the bar and you need to pull it all the way to the bar to get it to engage. I also adjusted it at the bar -and still a long pull. What am I missing? Seems the cable is too long. Help -please.
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Old 08-12-2007, 01:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The length of the connecting link should be 5.00" center to center. Pre-set that length and reconnect the link. Then try adjusting the cable.
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Old 08-12-2007, 06:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Tri 650,

Is this when you're riding the bike? Remember, the brake will feel "mushy" when you're not rolling. Mine will reach the handlebar if I pull it hard, but..that's how I've got it adjusted so that the tire won't "lock up"; it will only allow it to "squeal" a little bit. You're only dealing with a 3.25 cross-section tire and the progressive action of the long travel will give you a lot of control over the braking power. I don't dispute what Mecchanica said, but, the difference in brake shoes (wear etc.) and minor mechanical pieces in the brake itself could negate the pre-set measurement, even if you're re-using the old shoes. Once the adjustment of the "link" is set, it's all up to the cable. I'll guess that you've taken the "play" out of it with the adjuster that's built into the cable, and you have to remember that the front brake switch eats up a little of the movement. If the bike stops good, just that the cable, or lever, feels a little strange, remember it's not hydraulic and it's 40 year old technology.

Hope this helps: Jim
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks. I am only comparing it to the 65 Bonnie I just sold for a buddy of mine. The front brake grabbed quickly - even at rest. And the lever only moved about 1/2 of an inch. I guess I will wait until I get the motor back in and take it for a ride - which may be awhile.
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Old 08-13-2007, 01:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes, Tri,

I had a '66 and the single leading shoe brake did feel firmer, as I remember (but...it was a long time ago). The twin leading shoe is a whole different animal; also, the tls isn't as good holding the bike on a steep grade, i.e "backwards", as it's designed along the lines of a racing brake. Just be aware, that's all.

Get 'er running and ENJOY!!!! Jim
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Did you,by any chance,get a new perch and lever assembly?

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Old 08-16-2007, 10:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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if youve got one of the front brake cables with the built in switch, dump it for a new one without, centre the brake by squezzing it on befroe tightening the big centre bolt, then adjust the twin shoes to come on together...diconnect the arm to the rear shoe, use a spanner to turn the main shoe so its just rubbing, do the same with the second shoe, then adjust the rod, and refit the pin...better with 2 people...well set up these brakes are good, but if not only one shoe is really making good contact
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Old 08-17-2007, 11:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks. I will give that a try.
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Old 08-17-2007, 01:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If your state requires the front brake to operate the brake light (as it came from the factory) you'll have to keep the switch in it, and it's not a bad idea from a safety point. I had to convince the young fellow who inspected my '70 that turn signals didn't come on that year's bike; so some of the inspectors can be "sticklers". As I said before, ride it first and see how it feels when you actually use it.

Don't mean to offend anyone: Jim
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Old 08-17-2007, 09:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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maybe you have to have a switch, but do it some other way...those switch inline cables are a disaster as they compress to operate the switch...seen more brakes "fixed" by replacing this with a good new chunky cable than I care to remember...apparently a custom made cable with a harley clutch outer is the go...see if you can graft in a universal japanese switch into the lever
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