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Brighter Headlamp

8K views 50 replies 14 participants last post by  StuartMac 
#1 ·
Hi all. Last week fitted a 60/55 P43 H4 Equivalent LED headlamp bulb into the shell. Bit of a mission rearranging various pieces of wiring to allow for the LED cooling strips and control box but the effort was worth it! Night now becomes day. Consuming only 2.6 amps (on high beam) the Prince of Darkness has been overcome. www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com
 
#2 ·
So,Petes lamp design is working.I might get to his stall at the NEC show coming up soon.I bought one of his tail lamps about 3 years ago.He said he was trying to get an LED lamp for the headlight.I tried a few from cheap suppliers and they were useless.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Hi Don,

which bulb kit did you get according to his part #s.
P43 H4 Equivalent LED headlamp bulb into the shell.
http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-headlamp-bulbs-shop.php

From Muzz's posting, he bought "H4-1" (or "H4-2") from the dropdown in the right-hand column on the page.

Based on your bio, if your bike ('73 TR7) has the original headlamp, its bulb fitting in the reflector is known as "BPF" (British Pre Focus) and "P36d", which are in the lower dropdown in the middle column on the page.

However, if you're spending that much money, I'd strongly advise you to consider changing the lens/reflector for one that'll take the P43t bulb (the one that locates the bulb in the reflector with three radial tabs); the lens on a BPF/P36 reflector is crap. You can buy lens/reflectors for P43t bulbs with the Lucas logo in the lens if that's important to you.

Likewise, I'd advise against buying lens/reflectors that take the P45t bulb fitting (locates in the reflector with a series of lumps and bumps); fitting a P43t bulb with a "P43t to P45t adaptor" makes for a poorly-focussed bulb. :(

Hth.

Regards,
 
#18 · (Edited)
Hi,

any adaptor or bulb holder needed from the site?
I have had a halogen for about 20 years
In the original (P36/BPF) lens/reflector or a different one?

If in the original lens/reflector, ime same advice I've posted above for Don.

If in a different lens/reflector, I'm assuming P43t (locates the bulb in the reflector with three radial tabs) or P45t (locates the bulb in the reflector with a series of lumps and bumps), rather than P30/APF (American Pre Focus)?

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-headlamp-bulbs-shop.php

If your bike's existing "halogen" lens/reflector is P43t, buy the same bulb Muzz bought - "H4-1" or "H4-2", from the dropdown in the right-hand column.

Otoh, if it's P45t, similar to my advice to Don, change it for one that takes a P43t bulb fitting, don't use a "P43t to P45t adaptor".

the biggest risk is that I always ride with the light on and have the tendency of forgetting to turn it off as all of the other vehicle kill the headlights when the ignition is turned off.
It's got a pretty new braided wiring loop that I hate to dig into right now.
If the headlamp doesn't go off when a '76 T140V ignition switch is turned off, 'fraid something's wrong and/or non-standard with the bike's wiring.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#5 · (Edited)
LED Headlamp

Down the left side of the main page-online shop for LED's-to LED headlamps etc-H4 dipping bulbs on right of page, with the cooling straps and driver box. On the left side of the page are shown bulbs that will fit the factory lens.

As I already had an H4 equipped lens fitted to the shell (the dipping H4 bulbs come with a fitting that replicates the three prongs on a normal H4 bulb) the new LED bulb fitted straight into the lens.

Because of lack of room within the actual headlamp shell I fitted the unit so that the driver box sits just outside one of the grommets.
 
#6 ·
As the title of this thread is "Brighter Headlight, I was considering install of a halogen bulb. Granted not as 'up to date' as an LED, but should be a big improvement.

My question(s): does the increase wattage of the bulb present a danger to my T140V electric charging system? When using the bike, it is typically during my 35 miles trip to work and the rpm is over 3,500 for the most part. I just don't want to jeopardize the old electrical system parts or accelerate a break-down. Comments before I buy one and install it? Steve
 
#7 ·
I have had a halogen for about 20 years and recently thinking back I think it may have been the reason I had so many replacement batteries. I was actually thinking of going back to stock bulb wattages because of that.

I'm not sure the halogen is strain on the system when tooling along except my use is riding around town, not always spun up. But the biggest risk is that I always ride with the light on and have the tendency of forgetting to turn it off as all of the other vehicle kill the headlights when the ignition is turned off. So a low watt LED would help in that respect.
 
#14 ·
I rarely ride at night on the old bike.I do find that a superbright LED strip under the headlamp is a good daytime car repellent though.I might have a look at Petes lamps at the NEC though.Might be a good idea to fit a brighter unit.
 
#15 ·
LED's

With the fitting of the LED headlight bulb, all lighting on my T140 is now via LED's. Previously I had fitted (as daylight running lights) a pair of cluster LED's mounted either side of the headlamp mounting ears, these have now been removed. During daylight hours I will run with the head lamp on secure in the fact that there is very little current draw from the battery and engine revs can be kept safely below 3000 when travelling thru the City.
 
#21 ·
Stuart, thanks for the time and explanation. Very much appreciated. I occasionally leave work later than expected and travel home in the darkness with my '73 T140V. I was just looking for an easy and effective way to throw more light. I see it may not be the way to go with the problematic glass and possible electrical issues. I'll just ensure to leave earlier and ride a little slower. thanks very much for the time and effort. Steve
 
#24 ·
Lots of great information on this thread. Thanks guys!





Steve, although I plan to convert to LED I presently use a 7" sealed Halogen light (H6024 )which was a simple replacement to the stock light but I found to be a noticeable improvement in terms of light beam (more light and properly focused). I just had to add the female 3 prong connection to the bike's wiring for a couple bucks more. Although I ride mainly city I have not found this light to be a problem for my stock charging system (yet?). This may be a cheaper/easier alternative for you to give you at least a slightly better light at night. Every little bit helps in terms of safety and as anyone who rides today knows you need all the help you can get.
 
#22 ·
Hi, Thanks for the explanation. The bulb thing is very complicated due to the differences in reflectors & lens'. Indeed you raise the watts of the bulb, it will run down battery if you do a lot of city driving, such as I have to do. Just a fact of your location.

One thing I wanted was to keep the bike stock looking & not have extra drivers etc. outside the headlamp shell. At the same time the temperature of the components inside the shell must not be so hot as to melt wiring & plastic bulb sockets nearby. Some of the Superbrite LED bulbs have braided ribbon heat sinks, but they do get quite hot. So for now, I'll just stay with the r414 bulb BPF.

Thanks again, Don
 
#23 ·
Hi steve55, I found on my '73 Tiger the type bulb is most important. The reflector depends on a certain focus of bulb, not just a matter of watts. It is tricky because sellers market the bulbs interchangeably which is not correct. Also some are made to very poor standard & glass is so crooked it won't shine right either. Seems all are from China & don't last good like the old Stanley Japan ones did. I found the bulbs from Steadfast Cycles seems to last longer, (or I just got luckier).

Our headlamps needs what is generally known as a R414. Some call it 446. That bulb is a 40/50 watt. The visual feature for identification is the little deflector in front of the filaments & the direction of the filaments themselves. On this bulb both filaments are going crossways to glass & the little deflector plate in front of filament is vertical with bulb installed. Here's a photo of one.

http://www.steadfastcycles.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=210&products_id=5360

The other common one is 370. Some call these 303. This one is 48/48w. On this one, one filament is crossways, the other is long ways. The deflector is horizontal with bulb installed. Here's a photo.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-BON...370-/361053172502?vxp=mtr&hash=item5410723316

Many say they are interchangeable, but I've found on 2 different bikes, my '73 & my friends '70, only the 414 gives a proper beam you can actually see with. The focus of the 370 us wrong for our bikes & the beam becomes a short round circle of light extending only 10-20 feet making it nearly impossible to ride on a dark road at night.

I ride all year at night even on the darkest country roads. The 414 is just barely good enough. Still check your bulb to see what you have.

I'd like about twice as bright, but not willing to deal with it at this time.
Don
 
#25 ·
I went the same way with sealed halogen lamp, but it lasted perhaps 1.5 month.
So I decided to exchange it for a a H4 lens + halogen and this was lasting much longer in my BSA.
However because I still have 1 phase alternator and have to use lights all the time I decided to use
35 / 45W bulb. Using 35 W filament light is hardly better than original pre focus lens + bulb, 45 is so, so.
Part of the problem is my falling vision at night certainly, I remember cruising on unlit country roads on pilot alone with little difficulty.
Now I'd like to have at list 55 / 45W bulb in my lamp, so my next bike - T150 got a 3 phase alternator during rebuild.
 
#26 · (Edited)
My headlight wiring was burnt but working . I reworked the headlight with a new plug and heavier gauge wire. There was a thread on this forum comparing output of various aftermarket bulbs . I replaced my bulb with one of the recommended ones, can't remember which , stock wattage. The results were a big improvement for a minimum cost.
 
#30 ·
Hi,

My headlight wiring was burnt but working . I reworked the headlight with a new plug and heavier gauge wire.
Hmmm ...

Original '71-on wire was rated by Lucas for 7.5A - i.e. 90W @ 12V; in practice, it'll take higher - the alternator is rated for 10.5A/120W @ 5,000 rpm and, whatever's being produced and used, it has/had to travel down the Brown/Blue between rectifier and Zener, and that isn't usually Brown/Crispy.

When I rewire, I allow for 55W headlamp dip, I use thinner metric 9-strand, rated for 5.5A (i.e. 65W @ 12V) and never had any problem.

Risking stating the obvious, ime burnt headlamp wiring has one of two causes - high-Watts bulb, which by definition will also have damaged other wiring closer to the battery and rectifier, or high-resistance connection, which'll have just damaged wiring close to the offending connection.

Fwiw, if I'm asked to help fit a more-powerful headlamp to one of these old heaps, especially if I'm not allowed to rewire it completely, I wire the new headlamp separately to the battery with a couple of relays (similar to one of "Transgarp's" diagrams), connecting the dipswitch to the relays instead of directly to the headlamp. This has the advantages of removing one of the two biggest consumers from the standard harness, reducing the current moving around the common parts and jumping switch contacts by between a third and a half, without making any alterations to the standard harness. :)

Hth.

Regards,
 
#38 ·
I actually thought that the us spec bikes had "lights always on" added as a feature at the factory to comply with legislation?
Afaik this was done simply by placement of the correct wires on the standard switches, so no saving/added cost other than remembering the destination of the bike.

In the uk we got lumbered with various modifications for the larger us market as it was easier for Meriden to just build everything to comply
 
#41 ·
As best as I can recall ,Japanese bikes of the same era were wired so the headlight was always on when the ignition was on . There was no headlight switch at all,
so you couldn't turn the headlight off while starting . If the key switch was off no lights would work and as soon as the ignition switch was on the lights came on.
US Federal regulations can be blamed for a lot of stupid things....I'm not sure if Triumph wiring is one of them, but maybe.
 
#51 ·
Hi,

Some vendors actually use both part numbers on the same switch so I guess they expect they are interchangable.
The first time I've seen "35710" appear in parts books is '68, when the 3-position toggle switch takes over from the 88SA rotary lights switch, which had been supplied by Lucas since the early 1960's.

The toggle's three positions replicate the functions of the rotary's, which are specifically to turn on some lights (typically tail, speedo.-'n'-tacho.) in two positions and others (head and pilot) in just one position, so head's not on when pilot is and vice versa.

For some reason, "31788" appears in some parts books in '70; no idea why as there aren't any electrical changes between '69 and '70, and there isn't any difference between 35710 and 31788 apart from the number on the switch. Fwiw, my ('69) T100 has a 35710 while my ('70) T150 has a 31788.

"34419" doesn't appear in parts books 'til '73, when Triumph returned to the on/off ignition switch previously used '66 to '70 (to '74 on the 500's). No idea again why they didn't also return to 35710/31788 as well; the sole purpose of 34419 seems to have been to exclude the possibility of the headlamp being turned on when 'parking lights' (pilot and tail on) were in use and the owner wasn't present ... which is a possibility with 35710/31788 ...

But, as you've found, then 34419 couldn't be adapted to US legal requirements and then the Co-op were forced to revert to 35710, :Darn although they used a different switch supply terminal (#4 on the earlier applications, #1 on your bike), :dunno although it doesn't make any difference to how the switch works.

So you could fit a 31788 in place of the 35710 on your bike but, as you've guessed already from the pictures, you wouldn't see any change. You need a 34419 supplier who talks from the hole in the bottom half of his face ... :D

Hth.

Regards,
 
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