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clutch rebuild question 76t140v

2K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  coxy 
#1 ·
gday all
I have just put together a new clutch everything is brand new except for the pressure plate .the question is when I got to adjust the clutch springs and looking for evenness of the pressure plate I noticed the first plate sticking to the pressure plate like it has suction. I can push the plate back in and its only a few mm everything seems to work properly is this normal or have I missed somthing cheers.coxy
 
#3 ·
gday all
I noticed the first plate sticking to the pressure plate like it has suction. I can push the plate back in and its only a few mm everything seems to work properly is this normal or have I missed somthing cheers.coxy
Just out of curiosity, did you assemble this clutch dry? RR
 
#7 ·
thanks for the replies seeing the plates etc are new and I wiped the pressure plate down with wax and grease remover everything should have no oil on them unless I missed a drop .mark now that's an idea maybe I did put the rotor in the same pile as the pressure plate and its taken up a bit of magnetism . and I did assemble it dry . I will fire her up over the weekend and see if all is well thanks
 
#9 ·
Hi Coxy, What friction plates did you use? Will be interesting to see how dry the plates will stay in operation. I've always soaked the plates in oil. But I see here some do it dry.

In the future always store the rotor inside the stator. Leaving it outside the stator causes it to loose magnetism. If you have them, you could also use "keepers" which are 2 crescents of thick steel that are stuck around the outside of stator. New stators come with them.

Looking forward to hear your results.
Don
 
#13 · (Edited)
Will be interesting to see how dry the plates will stay in operation. I've always soaked the plates in oil. But I see here some do it dry.

Don
I'm not Coxy, but I can answer the question.

The Trumpy clutch is not a "wet" clutch in the truest sense, as it is not immersed in oil as are some Jap bike clutches.

The oil in the primary case is there to oil the chain, the fact that some oil penetrates the clutch is somewhat incidental (oil does inevitably penetrate the friction plates). Whilst the clutch rollers (these operate when the clutch is disengaged) probably benefit from the oil, the friction plates are not affected, one way or the other.

In the OIF, where engine oil is use to lubricate the primary chain, the use of oil with added friction modifiers may well cause slippage. Much debate has gone on, back and forth, about this. Most owners seemed to conclude that it's best to use oil dedicated for older engines that does not have friction modifiers in the mix.

Dry assembly and dry running will affect zilch in the performance of the clutch, the rollers notwithstanding.

Info offered FWIW in IMHO. RR
 
#10 ·
yeah now I am worried about loss of magnetism the rotor is about two years old and I must have lost those crescent pieces of steel .I am not sure of the brand of the plates. I bought everything from Trojans in Sydney and I found them to be very helpful . Trojans worked out to be a little cheaper than everywhere else in some cases up to $400 cheaper the thing I found strange is that the I could not find a complete clutch assembly apart from one seller in the U.K and had to buy everything as parts which came to just under $1000 including post .
 
#14 ·
Hi Retrorod, I can for 100% sure Pennzoil non synthetic car oil will make the clutch slip under power while gassing it on flats or while going up medium & steeper hills. I got lots of Pennzoil free from work & used it to flush my eng & primary after 34 years of storage. Also modern car oil has reduced zinc which is needed to protect our type cams. Zinc ruins catalytic converters so it's much reduced in car oil. I know putting car oil in Hondas causes bad clutch slip. A good friend of mine had that happen.

After flushing primary by changing its oil 3 times with short road tests between changes, I took it out on road for a real ride. Within 10-20 miles clutch was already slipping bad. I was shocked it could slip so soon. I was aware of the zinc & clutch slip, but the oil was free & Mobil1 20-50 v-twin is $12.00 qt. I changed eng sump & frame oil 3 times also.

I then drained all & used the V-twin which is made with lots of zinc & specifically for wet clutch. In only 10 miles all slip was gone. That shocked me too. I took the exact same road test to see what would happen so I'd know if it was just the oil. It was. These clutches really do well with V-twin.

I've had lots of 650 & 750 clutches apart. Every one was oil soaked on the plates. I recently installed a Hyde 7 plate & they say soak new plates in primary oil before installation.

I recall from the old days (70-80s) we used Castrol GTX 20-50. It would mildly stick the plates. Took a good kick to free in morning. Now with V-twin oil, you pull lever & in the 1st inch or 2 of stroke the clutch is free. With v-twin & Hyde clutch, it's really extra easy to free. Actually you probably don't even need to free it. I always do though. I only have a little over 1500 mi. on Hyde clutch so far. Will be interesting to see how it holds up over time. So far I love it & can use softer clutch springs so lever is really easy to pull.
Don
 
#15 ·
I've had lots of 650 & 750 clutches apart. Every one was oil soaked on the plates. I recently installed a Hyde 7 plate & they say soak new plates in primary oil before installation.

I recall from the old days (70-80s) we used Castrol GTX 20-50. It would mildly stick the plates. Took a good kick to free in morning. Now with V-twin oil, you pull lever & in the 1st inch or 2 of stroke the clutch is free.
No surprise that plates are oil soaked, that's how they come out of every disassembled Trumpy. It's all a bit academic whether owners pre-oil plates for assembly, but I believe that clean plates facilitate easier/better adjustment as plates don't cling.

This sticking clutch business is a US syndrome. Very rarely, if ever, have I seen UK or Australian owners complain of it. Whilst it may be the winter layover, though many US owners complain about it outside of the spring re-awakening period.

Here in OZ, I've used almost all brands of 20-W50, Castrol, Valvolene, Shell, and Penrite without any adverse consequences for the clutch. I have settled on Penrite as they do a classic formula for these old engines.

I'd likely use the "F" type ATF in the primary if I owned a pre-'70 bike. RR
 
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