Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

Tri Spark (or try to spark...)

42K views 258 replies 27 participants last post by  RetroRod 
#1 ·
The whole look of this site has changed since I've been away. I preferred it how it was. Anyway, here's my message: If you want to have a decent ignition system that's unlikely to pack up in the middle of nowhere, causing you to feel very thankful for your Carole Nash free UK & EU breakdown recovery service, then stick to points. They might pack up, but you'll have a good chance at fixing them.

My Trispark packed up and i had a trip home in a truck. Great. I then had what seemed like weeks (I think it actually was weeks) of very laborious email exchanges with Steve Kelley in Oz. The time difference got in the way there and made for 24 hour delays in responses.

Anyway, after god knows how many tests at Steve's request (I told him all along it wasn't any of the things he wanted me to test for, but I went along anyway), he finally conceded that the problem must be the Trispark unit. He posted me a new one. It arrived 3 days ago. I fitted it yesterday, timed it up statically, and it started first kick.

So, no doubt it was the original (4500 mile old) Trispark unit at fault.

Yes, it was good of Steve to send me a replacement (not especially good mind - it did come with a 3 year guarantee, and I only bought it 2 1/2 years ago!). However, the whole experience had shaken my faith in Trispark products. Where will I be when the new one suddenly lets me down? Just turning into my drive, or 500 miles away?
 
See less See more
#43 ·
Just catching up with this thread (since the layout of this forum has changed, it isn't as simple as it used to be to keep track, or so I'm finding...). In no particular order:-

Stu - thanks for asking, but nothing interesting to say - I didn't get far enough south to reach anywhere interesting or even any decent weather! As for 'hijacking' (or 'assisting in hijacking'), please don't apologise - it's all good stuff as far as I'm concerned. This thread has produced some interesting and useful comments.

John H - interesting to read your remark re. a resistor failure causing heat blistering/bulging of the module. My failed module has a 'blister' underneath the sticker (just to the left of the spot where the 3 wires come out). I can confirm that the coils I've used since fitting the Trispark kit are Trispark's own (which, incidentally, are slightly smaller OD than the originals, meaning they just drop into the grommets, and meaning they need a few turns of insulating tape wrapped around their upper ends to get a proper fit). I measured the resistance of both coils. Each coil measures 2.2 Ohms. The Trispark manual's spec is 1.9 Ohms. Comparing these resistance figures with your recommended minimum of 2.5 Ohms, I'm not sure what to think? Do you think Steve Kelly has got it wrong?

Finally (for now), it's been interesting to see that I am far from alone in experiencing a breakdown of my Trispark system. I have not yet sent my failed module back to Steve (I will do this week). I will ask to be told exactly what he finds went wrong, and I'll report the answer on here.
 
#44 ·
No, Steve has the coil resistance in the correct range. You just don't want the current draw higher than 5 amps continuous.

Amp draw = battery voltage divided by coil, or coils in series, resistance.

Being potted it is hard to comment on how Steve has the plate wired. But it is typical for these units to have the feed wire (black - positive ground) connected to one terminal of the switching diode and the black/white wire (feeding switched 12 volts to the coils) to the other. The switch just turns on and off the feed to the coil at specific intervals to fire the coils.

One scenario can be if the black/white wire gets shorted to ground it puts full battery current through the switching diode. It is similar to putting a wrench across the battery terminals. You can imagine the heat generated before the diode fails.

Something similar can happen in bikes where the coils are in metal brackets and one gets over tightened and causes an internal short to ground.

But at 2.2 x 2 = 4 ohms ti would not have been the coil's resistance that caused the problem.
 
#45 ·
No, I don't think it was the coils, or anything else wrong with the rest of the bike's electrics that caused the problem (I say this having spent hours painstakingly checking through every bit of it, from end to end!). The only out of the ordinary thing I could identify was the blistering on the module, and the presence of condensation inside the points chamber when removing the cover the couple of times that I did remove it between fitting the Trispark and it breaking down. As I said, I don't recall ever finding this with points. It was definitely condensation, not water getting in via the wire tunnel.

Looking back, I should correct that the total mileage between fitting and breaking down must only have been about 3500 miles, as I had the original Rita on for the first 1000 miles, approximately.
 
#46 ·
OCR, sorry to say but you seem to be in the same position as everyone else who has had one of these units fail. You have spent a good deal of time and no doubt some folding in order to protect your replacement unit from the possibility that your bike is responsible for the first failure. Unfortunately without a firm and correct diagnosis as to the cause of the failure you are simply pissing into the wind and hoping your shoes are waterproof.

John A, if you do get a firm answer please do share. As you can probably tell I'm really a bit fed up with it all.

I'll get me coat now

Rod
 
#47 · (Edited)
Well I can't do much more about the heat side of things except maybe fit a mica heat insulating disc between the units body and the timing cover face to reduce direct heat transfer but one other thing I might try is a 1.4ohm ballast resistor between the positive supply and the module 12v input wire.
That should reduce the current by about 1.5 amps on my 14.6v system with the 3ohm coil.
Anything I can do to reasonably reduce the voltage and current passing through the module is bound to have a positive effect on longevity.

http://www.hot-spark.com/1-HS14BR.htm
 
#48 ·
Interesting about the ballast resistor idea Davy. Looking at the Hot-Spark link though, it says to check with the EI manufacturer for compatibility and resistance needed. I will ask Steve about this, but I must admit, I'd have thought his answer will be that if he considered a ballast resistor would help, he'd be building them into his kits as a matter of routine.

The mica shim might help keep the unit cool. On mine, there is just under 2mm between the rotor and the back of the module plate. The max air gap specified by Steve is 3mm, so a 1mm shim would be feasible. Next task is to track small pieces of mica sheet for sale...
 
#49 · (Edited)
I'm just going to go ahead and do the resistor for two reasons, 1/. it can't do any harm, 2/. Getting Steve to admit there is anything wrong with the module and not the bike is a difficult task as I found out so any discussion in that direction probably won't be well received.
Toasters and Microwaves have mica sheet in them but if or not mica will interfere with the pickup field I don't know.
I'll probably use fiberglass circuit board with the copper etched off for mine instead.
Edit:
I found mica sheet here and ordered some.
http://www.polymerclay.com.au/bs56915x3125x75mmnaturalmicarectanglesheet-p-24168.html
 
#50 ·
I haven't read the whole thread so I might be repeating someone. The marginal cost of electronics is next to nothing. You are paying for the development and profit. The manufacturers should give two units for the price. One to go in the tool tray as a spare. This would solve this issue.
 
#51 ·
I'd be happy with that Jim. You've got a good point - what do the components add up to, I wonder? $30?

I will suggest this to Steve. I honestly think its a fair enough request, given that a breakdown could mean a ruined holiday, whereas having a spare that can be changed in 10 mins by the road could make all the difference.
 
#55 · (Edited)
Having read some of the amperage figures bandied about on this post I thought it was time to do some real world tests on the Mk2 Trispark system fitted to my Daytona.

I also yesterday purchased a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor to do further tests with.
First up the resistor wouldn't have lasted 100 miles as the wire coil is unsupported along it's length and the terminal screws had been overtightened cutting halfway through the wire.
I remedied this by cutting the ends off, stretching the coil to the required length and forming new screw eyes in the ends.
I then fitted the terminal screws with double male spades and filled the whole space around the restor wire with clear silicone to adequately support it.
So now I had a reasonable resistor with a new resistance value of 1.4 ohms which is fine.
The resistor nestles rather neatly under the front fuel tank mounting bracket close to the coil secured in place with a strip of 3M industrial strength double sided tape and a pair of cable ties for good measure.

So to the testing.
My setup is non standard 12v negative earth with separate circuits and fuses for each discreet system
First up I checked my ammeter with a battery of known voltage and a lamp globe of known wattage and came up with the correct reading.

Once warmed up I saw 12.7v @ idle and 13.4v @ 3000rpm and 13.7v at 5000rpm.
This is lower than the 14.6v I saw when I first changed to the Mosfet R/R a while back when I fitted the replacement Trispark and is probably due to fitting a new battery which could indicate the old one was on the way out.
I'm quite happy to see this lower voltage output as the system is all led and has very little current requirement.

I tested the current between the positive power supply and the twin output coil and was amazed to see it drew only 0.5amps @ 1200rpm idle, 0.9amps at 3000rpm and 1.4amps @ 5000rpm.
With the motor off and the ignition on it drew 0.04amps.

So I then connected the resistor and tested again, 0.48amp @ idle, 0.78amps @ 3000 rpm and 1.2 amps @ 5000rpm.

This all truly surprised me by how little current was going through the system.
I'm no expert but 5 amps is what you might expect to see with a set of points closed at rest, but as the engine starts then duty cycle becomes part of the equation and I'm guessing that's why I see these lower numbers with the EI which do rise as duty cycle increases.

From this I see no real advantage in having the resistor but left it on anyway for testing purposes and so long as the system performs properly under full load when hot then I'm inclined to leave it in the system.
I did make a resistor bypass wire though with spade terminals at each end which I can quickly and easily fit should the resistor fail as if something new can break.. it probably will.

From all this I'm now in agreement with Mr Kelly that my original module did in fact see a voltage event as I described in a previous post in this thread and am of the opinion that with my new battery, new Mosfet regulator and ballast resistor I can move forward now with more confidence in the system.
I would like to see some current and voltage figures from anyone else who has had a similar module failure to compare to mine.

Edit: just returned from a 42 mile fast run (maxed out at 95mph) and the thing runs very sweet and the resistor doesn't get even warm to the touch so as it reduces the power through the module by almost 3 watts I think I'll leave it in place permanently.
Just waiting for the mica heat insulation sheet for the module to arrive now to complete the job.

davy
 

Attachments

#56 · (Edited)
Hi Davy,

'Fraid you appear to be labouring under several electrical misapprehensions:-

My setup is non standard 12v negative earth
I tested the current between the positive power supply and the twin output coil
You're dealing with DC electrics; "earth" does not exist, except as a concept and a jargon word.

DC electrons don't understand "earth", so they 'flow' from battery -ve to battery +ve irrespective of whatever any human thinks. :) The Tri-Spark (any e.i.) should always be supplied from battery -ve and should supply the coil(s); i.e. the e.i. (sorry ;)) output is always to (first) coil -ve.

Anything I can do to reasonably reduce the voltage ... passing through the module is bound to have a positive effect on longevity.
Voltage doesn't "pass through" anything. Volts are simply the units of potential difference between two points in a circuit. If you measure between, say, battery -ve and the input into an e.i., you will see zero Volts; you must measure between battery +ve and the input into an e.i. - because the e.i. input is connected to battery -ve - to see, say, the nominal 12V.

A ballast resistor is - as the name ought to suggest - a resistance. If you put one in an electrical circuit, you increase the total resistance of the circuit.

Three electrical basics - p.d. (Volts), electron flow (Amps) and resistance (Ohms) - are linked by Ohm's Law (E=IR aka Volts = Amps x Ohms).

If the p.d. (Volts) between the battery terminals doesn't change but you increase the resistance (Ohms), Ohm's Law shows the current (Amps) falls.

If you fit a separate resistance between battery -ve and the e.i.'s input, the p.d. across that separate resistance will fall as a percentage of the circuit's total resistance:-

. if the coil is 3 Ohms and you add a 1.5-Ohm ("ballast") resistor, the circuit total resistance becomes 4.5 Ohms;

. the p.d. before the first resistance is battery Volts; e.g. 12V;

. the p.d. after the first resistance is 8V - 1.5 Ohms is 1/3rd of 4.5 Ohms;

. do you imagine supplying 8V to an e.i. designed for a nominal 12V is a good idea?

That is why any e.i. - which is just a glorified switch - must be on the -ve (supply) side of any coil(s) (resistances). Remember, when we go hunting for the causes of an ignition problem, one of the things we check is that the Volts across the battery terminals is the same as the Volts between the e.i. input and the other battery terminal? We investigate and fix any losses? So not very clever to deliberately put a resistance - Volt drop - between battery -ve and the e.i.? :)

Mr Kelly's own twin lead coil which metered out at 3 ohms
If you put the 1.5-Ohm "ballast resistor" between the e.i. and the coil, again, the nominal 12V would be reduced into the coil; supplying a 12V-rated coil with 8V affects the HT output exponentially. :(

if the system voltage is allowed to get up around the 15volt mark (as mine was doing) then the current can easily rise to an unacceptable level.
Nope. As I've posted slightly differently above, Ohm's Law: if the resistance doesn't change, if the p.d. increases, the current decreases?

Finally, theoretically, you could put the resistor between coil +ve and battery +ve. But, as I say, because the circuit p.d. remains the same (nominal 12V), the current falls. Reducing the current increases the coil charge time; this might or might not be an issue at higher rpm.

12.7v @ idle and 13.4v @ 3000rpm and 13.7v at 5000rpm.
current between the positive power supply and the twin output coil and was amazed to see it drew only 0.5amps @ 1200rpm idle, 0.9amps at 3000rpm and 1.4amps @ 5000rpm.
Ohm's Law suggests a total ignition circuit resistance of around 4.5 Ohms (the values using your figures are 4.23 Ohms @ idle, 4.46 Ohms @ 3000, 4.56 Ohms @ 5000). One hopes this is due to the Tri-Spark's power-saving, the coil is being fully-charged, not high resistance elsewhere in the ignition circuit reducing coil charging ...

This all truly surprised me by how little current was going through the system.
I'm just going to go ahead and do the resistor for two reasons, 1/. it can't do any harm,
Given the foregoing, are you sure?

I know Tri-Spark for a triple only connects a coil long enough to charge it fully, the LT connection time isn't rpm-dependent.

If the Classic Twin version of Tri-Spark has that circuitry too, an additional separate "ballast resistor" would be unnecessary at best; at worst, ...? :whistle

I'm now in agreement with Mr Kelly that my original module did in fact see a voltage event
But, if I've enlightened you here, re-read post #16 and stop faffing around with additional resistances. :) If Lucas and John Carpenter were right, the two things that'll apparently at least reduce the possibility of "a voltage event" mullering a Tri-Spark are:-

1. Assuming your bike's wired as per http://www.trispark.com.au/images/Classic%20Twin%20Manual%202013.pdf, page 6, "Negative Earth" diagram, detach the Black/Yellow wire from the pillar bolt and extend it out of the timing cover, ideally directly to battery -ve but - if the bike has one and you must - to the network of supply wires attached to battery -ve.

2. A Zener diode connected between the Tri-Spark's supply and battery +ve. I suspect this shouldn't be one similar to the charging regulator Zener beloved of Lucas but one that starts to conduct at higher Volts? If you have an electronics store that supplies the computer builders and similar, they'll suggest one, or you could run my suggestions past Steve?

Hth.

Regards,
 
#57 ·
Lots of equations there Stuart but the fact remains that once the ballast resistor was fitted the total ignition circuit current consumption reduced.

FWIW, I design, manufacture and market automotive electronic products so maybe I don't need your lessons thanks.
Looks like I'll be saying goodbye to this form again.

davy
 
#58 ·
Davy, Stuart is knowledgeable in his own way to be sure.

He also has some inner need to share this knowledge in a needling kind of way that irritates the s**t out of me, and you too it seems.

Likewise, I am certain that I irritate the s**t out of him, and others here too, so it kinda cuts both ways for me. The absence of body language is a real communication problem on forums.

I am prepared to say that it's highly likely he's easily misread, but that hardly helps people like you and me.

Stick around Davy, and just ignore him. With luck, he'll take the hint and leave your threads/posts for others to comment on. RR
 
#59 ·
First, please don't leave Davy - this forum needs knowledgeable yet down to earth people like you (as opposed to knowledgeable people who might spend half a page telling you how you can't leave the forum because, according to the Oxford English Dictionary, the origin of the word 'forum' means that it is not something that can be "left", blah blah blah..."!).

Second, please keep yer hair on RR - if I could send the Trispark back & get a refund & then return to points, I'd do that. A refund isn't on offer though, just a replacement unit, which seems fairly likely not to last very long like the last one, judging by the experiences of others that this thread has brought forth. So I'm kind of stuck with it. OK, I could just put the replacement unit away and not use risk it - I've half a mind to do so in fact. But that doesn't alter the fact that I paid good money for what I believed would be one of the best EIs around, and it let me down after what I'd call a very low mileage.

This thread has brought some interesting experiences and ideas up so far. Unless anyone's got further useful info to contribute, can we end it here rather than let it deteriorate into an argument?
 
#73 ·
Davy - please be assured that the information you put onto this forum is very much appreciated by many fellow members, whether they tell you so or not. It certainly is appreciated by me. I'm telling you 'cos I don't like to see valued members get pissed off by unnecessary pedantry or nitpicking, whoever it may be from. And to Stuart - you know I'm including you in this - please don't take offence. You must know what you're like. As far as I'm concerned, you're a knowledgeable and probably likeable (in real life, as in down the pub) bloke whose input to this forum would be greatly enhanced if you could just tone down the ego a few notches!

Redmoggy - thanks for asking but I'm none the wiser as yet. All I know is that Ateve (Trispark) agreed, after exhaustive testing and reporting of results by me, that the module packed up. Which is exactly what I said i the first place. He sent me a replacement free of charge, which was good. My bike started 1st kick having fitted it, and has continued starting 1st kick ever since, just as it always did before.

The old module has a blister on its starboard face, indicating (to my electronically ignorant brain) that some overheating has occurred.

I will report whatever Steve says he finds when he dissects it.
 
#74 ·
Sorry to say my reason for asking was a little selfish. I was hoping you might have found out something that might explain why I have another apparently failed unit. I've emailed Steve to see about returning it for testing.

Would still be very interested in anything you find out.

Cheers
Rod
 
#75 ·
First thing you need to check is how much voltage your system is putting out.
Steve told me straight away my unit failed in the input voltage control area under the epoxy.
So I concludeed it was more a case of voltage issues than just heat.
I checked mine out and found to much system voltage and that's why I fitted the new Mosfet R/R to better control the voltage supplied to the unit and then the ballast resistor to tone things down a bit going through it's internal switching system, then followed up with the mica heat insulating disc between the timing case face and the module.

davy
 
#76 ·
Cheers Davey, appreciate your input. I have a maximum charge voltage of 14.7 using a TriSpark reg. Have to be honest with you though, I purchased a bolt on component designed to work on an old British bike. If it's incapable of operating reliably when fitted to such a machine it becomes somewhat unfit for use. I really do not see that you or anyone else should need to go to such ends to make it reliable.

I'll see what happens when I hear from Steve.

Regards
Rod
 
#77 ·
Rod

I too had a Trispark reg (non mosfet) and that's why I had excess voltage and changed it for the mosfet one which holds the voltage down far better.
I too was disappointed to have the module fail so early but time will tell if I'm going down the right road with my controlling the voltage and temperature better than stock.

davy
 
#78 ·
TWIMC by way of technical comment.

I'm an electronic dinosaur :surprise: although I once did once make an "electronic" spark booster from a kit way back in '73 for my then family car.

It does seem all EI's are not equal, and so the more we know about them the less the risk for the purchaser in choosing one.

I have the "el cheapo" Pazon installed on the old tart '72 T120 along with all that so called sh***y Lucas rectifier, and Zener still doing their MAGNIFICENT work attached to the two wire alternator. :grin2:

I've 12k miles up with this EI unit and have not had an ounce of trouble. Andy at Pazon is quick to help with advice any time I've asked a question. What more could a fellow ask for? :smile2:
 
#80 ·
Yes............... I've been supportive of TriSpark here on warranty issues, just ask John A. However, and perhaps as John A has said, it might be better if we don't have failures in the first instance.

It's true, any electronic can fail, but its propensity to do so is directly linked to its design and quality of the components. We rarely see a Jap rider removing his EI "black box" do we? :surprise:

Anyway, you comments here hardly fill owners of the TriSpark with confidence. :frown2:
 
#81 ·
The reason I've hesitated in sending the failed module back to Steve is that I'm hoping to come across an electronics expert locally, who can take a look at the module and work out exactly what's gone wrong, and more importantly, why. I have heard (on forums) that Steve tends not to disclose much info on why these modules fail.

That's my plan anyway, but I haven't done much about it yet.
 
#90 · (Edited)
I have had a few conversations with Steve on this subject and his answer is basically he can only do an external test and visual clues if the epoxy has heat bubbled in a particular area on the back of the unit.
I asked him if he tests each component for faults and he said "Its epoxy encapsulated .. so no, I can't get to them."

I then told him what I routinely did when R/Ring new product designs which were encapsulated was to immerse them in acetone for a week or so which softens the epoxy to the point where eventually it can be broken off like rubber and the individual components accessed for testing.
Don't know if he followed up on that or just keeps doing what he always has done and try to analyze them externally.
On thing I did notice on my failed unit apart from the blistering was the acrid smell from it... once you get that... well it's toast isn't it ?


Johntioc, I tend to agree with your view that it's mostly voltage spike events that fail Trisparks and that's why I took the path I have to control that issue as far as possible.
I also run a 3 phase alternator but not headlamp on and only run in daylight so have taken the step of running it as only a two phase setup to give the R/R an easier time and reduce the chances of overvoltage as well as using the ballast resistor to damp things down a little.
Of course just a momentary wiring fault in the battery to R/R wiring, a fuse vibrating in it's holder can cause massive spikes to the Trispark so nothing is bullet proof on these vibratory old bikes.
I'm thinking of obtaining a Transil diode and fitting that in the IE power supply to further buffer the system as is often done on ECU systems.


davy
 
#86 ·
Does it? It wouldn't if you'd witnessed the endless series of emails between me and Steve, and the endless tests he asked me to perform & report back on. It was 3 weeks before he finally accepted it was his module at fault. Once he'd accepted that, it would have been a bit off if he'd not sent a replacement straightaway.

You don't know everything John(tioc), and you're not always right. You imply that not only me, but the quite numerous other Tri-Spark owners who have had the same kind of failure, caused their own problems, in your typical manner. I could run through every component in my bike's wiring but without shipping it across the Atlantic to you, I know you'll still argue. Even if I did that, you'd find a way I'm sure!
 
#84 ·
All ignition systems, whether mechanical or electronic, are subject to failure. Diagnosis, with being able to do on the side of the road repair, is subject to the ability of the rider to diagnose the problem and availability of tools and spares so on can initiate some form of repair. In either case if the parts needed to patch the system back together are not available, whether it be a points or electronic ignition, there is no other solution than to seek alternative transportation.

The voltage limitations, whether it be low voltage where the box doesn't turn on or the high voltage where it will damage the internal components are the same across all available electronic units. It is the nature of the technology and the electronics used in these units. The high low voltage limits are standard across the industry for the switching components used in these units. Most of the reasons electronic ignitions fail (high voltage, current draw, either from shorts or coil resistance) are basically beyond the control of the manufacturer of the electronic ignition itself.

As Richard Whately is fond of saying, "Installing an electronic ignition is the first day you start upgrading you motorcycle's electrical system." Your experience, especially when it comes to reliability, is dependent more upon your motorcycle's electrical system than the brand electronic ignition you choose. We sell Boyer, Pazon, Vape, Sparx and Tri-Spark and when adjusted for sales nearly the same level of reliability. I would say that our "real" failure rate where the unit returned actually doesn't work runs about 1% across the board.

All electronic ignitions are only as reliable as your electrical system. If you do not have a good healthy battery, a voltage regulator that is not leaking AC, a regulator that is regulating voltage where the voltage will not spike over 17 volts, a rectifier that is not leaking AC, a wiring system where the fuse holder isn't corroded, switches are not high resistance from corrosion of poor contacts, connections that aren't broken or corroded, and real proper grounds, and coils that are are withing the ohm range specified by the maker of the ei, and you don't ground the wire coming out of the box feeding the coil, you electronic ignition will be very reliable. Most of the failures can be traced back to high voltage or too high current draw from a grounded wire or coil with the improper resistance. And your charging system has to keep up with the current being used to enable the battery from sulfating. Yes, you can sulfate a battery riding your motorcycle when the charging system cannot keep up with use.

A simple thing like a battery terminal coming loose will cause a voltage spike that can render an ei unit toast.
A coil that has suffered an internal short in the primary winding can render an ei toast.
Grounding the coil feed wire coming from the control box WILL render the ei toast.
Swapping the wires around on the control box as a test can render the ei toast.

Yes, we do get problems with the trigger circuit where the timing of the spark is lost, but this failure is rare. Most failures can be traced back to a problem with the feed voltage.
 
#91 ·
All good points, however as an electronics engineer I will say some things are now less excusable. The latest semiconductors aimed at the auto market are very robust. They have comprehensive protection built in to the switching transistors. They don't even need protection from coil transients.

Try and blow up this one up.

http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/NID9N05CL-D.PDF

Additionally a modern design switch box should run down to 3V or so and present almost no on resistance to the coil primary current. The only obstacle to a spark should be not enough coil primary voltage.

The older designs will not be like this.
 
#87 ·
Very interesting as I just purchased a Tri-Spark for my 1969 Tiger 650. Got tired of adjusting the timing all the time and not being reliable on longer trips. Hoping that it installs easy and works like advertised :grin2:

Got two new coils and wires too. I will save all the old stuff in case someone (not me) wants to take it back to original.


Jeff
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top