Triumphrat

03-26-2007

I've been poking around on this site a little looking for some info. I found the "parts suppliers" thread very helpful!

Here is my story...I bought my 63 back in 88. It was far from stock. The guy I got it from was riding it the summer before, but it needed help bad. I tore it apart then and it has been in various stages of together and in boxes ever since. It has sorta become a side project that I tinker with every couple years. That is NO MORE! I really want to get it back on the road this summer.

You purists will hate me for what i am doing to it, but it is after all MY bike :-D

I am going for an old school chopper type look. The sort of bike Herman Munster would ride!

Anyway, here is my first batch of questions for you who know the old Trumps....

1) I plan to run a battery eliminator. Is there anything I need to look for specifically for my application?

2) I also plan to go to electronic ignition. Again, is there one better brand than others or anything special I need to know?

3) Most all of the bolts for the side covers have had the heads mangled. Is there somewhere to get a full bolt kit for this bike's engine along with maybe some taps of the proper size? Or is it possible to re-tap the holes to a SAE or metric size/thread?

4) This one will most likely lead to opinionated debate, but should I stick with my single carb or go to the duals? I hear bad things about the AMAL that is on it. Suggestions?

I'll have more to come for sure.

KADUTZ · 03-26-2007

First welcome
As one who is probably considered the most anal of the purist's out here you do as you like with your scoot. you build it as you like I am sure people on this site will be glad to help and give good advice. however this is not really a chopper/bobber directed forum.
What is your definition of an"old school chopper". I believe on the Munsters there was a side car bike with a coffin on the sidecar frame. I believe George Barris built that along with the Munstermobile.

1 I would run a capacitor with a later model alternator and stock Zener and Rectifier

2 I would run points

3 The side covers on the engine were retained by screws NOT bolts. By the way the heads were POSI-DRIVE not Phillips. Complete engine sets are available as original or socket head. Taps, Dies, Thread repair die and taps are available in all sizes. you can rethread any hole you want by using Heli-coils, Thread-sert or other repair kits.

4 Do as you like with the head and I like my old AMALS's

Jus my pinion

pcn:

[ This message was edited by: KADUTZ on 2007-03-26 21:35 ]

GrandPaulZ · 03-26-2007

Welcome!

Battery eliminator and electronic ignition do not necessarily play well together. You'll also want a high output alternator and a capacitor to keep everything humming happily.
Sparx makes excellent stuff for all of the electricals.

Most of the suppliers out there carry engine cover screw kits in OEM phillips head, allen head and stainless allen head.

If you already have a single carb setup, you'll need a whole new head to go to duals. Cost of a decent head + rebuild + carbs is going to be around $500 MINIMUM, probably double if mostly new (used head, new rebuild parts & carbs).

03-27-2007

Thanks for the replies so far!

Kadutz, I've seen enough of your posts to get an idea of your "analness". Don't worry though, let it pour out if ya must. I'm known as "Resident Prick" myself in my 4x4 club, you are NOT gonna hurt my feeling through the web. :-D

I'm not really here for advice on the chopper part of my build, just for info to get the engine running up to par. As far as my definition goes, I have none really. I just know exactly how I want THIS bike to look. If I could download from my "mind's eye" I'd post ya a pic. :razz:

Here's the just of it to give ya a better idea. I am building my own girder front end, with the sides in a sorta coffin shape. Narrow laid back handle bars. I have already built a custom oil tank and fuel tank is next, again sorta coffin shaped. Most everything is going to be squared off so to speak. The rear fender is raised into the rear frame and has a kind of "whale tail" look out the back. I have a king queen type high back seat fitted to it as well. I am using both mag wheels and disk brakes from a Honda Magna. I have lowered the rear about 3" and am making my own forward controls and pegs. Overall it will have a very "laid back" look. I plan for NO chrome, just alum and powder coat.
And don't forget the cross tail light and mirrors!
I'm not out to copy anyone else's works, but the Barris stuff would be similar to what I am going for.

I do know that the covers have "screws" and not "bolts" but didn't figure I needed to be THAT technical in my post. I'll try harder from here out :wink:

so,,with that out of the way......

I have NO room for a battery so eliminating that is a must. Have any of you heard of using nicad packs on a bike? Like the ones that power RC cars? I have seen kits to convert motocross bikes to street use and that is what I believe they use. I can see your point on the electronic ignition issue with no battery Paul. That just never crossed my mind before, thanks! I do want to eliminate the points just for reliability/less maintenance.

I am leaning toward keeping the single carb set up and doing the intake mods shown in a Clymer manual I have. Just not sure about sticking with the amal.

Best source for the Sparx stuff Paul?

Any other suggestions?

johnnypence · 03-27-2007

get yerself a magneto ignition and put a small carnivore's skull on the little wart that'll stick out of the timing cover. mecchanica has a recommended batteryless package in 1,245 or so posts. you can probably do a search and find it. i think it's a magneto and sparx 3-phase. i covet it, but can't afford it right now.

for the skull, you'll probably have to find your own roadkill unless you already have a bookshelf full of them like me. a little 20-mule-team borax will lift the flesh right off.

GrandPaulZ · 03-27-2007

Nothing wrong with Mikuni, I prefer new or re-sleeved Amals.

There are umpteen good suppliers, several are advertisers here on RatNet. Look for the banner ads, and ads at the bottom of the screen.

I've got a really nice, freshly rebuilt Hunt magneto that I'll consider selling or trading away; what have you got?

Mecchanica · 03-27-2007

Hunt mags are expensive crashbars....they stick out about seven inches on the right. ARD belt drive mags are neat and tidy, but are spendy and have no advance mechanism, and neither does the Hunt mag. ARD undercover mags are spendy and sometimes hard to get.
For the money, get a Sparx 3-phase alternator kit and fit a 4500mfd, 35vdc. capacitor in place of the battery to filter DC spikes and you will be able to use the Sparx electronic ignition without any battery. You'll also have enough juice to run all sorts of lights and gizmos.
My first Triumph was a '63....TR6R DU3909
Stick with the single carb. The 63 has the smaller valves from the T110s, and is very tractible with a 1 1/16" carb, (26mm), but you can fit an 1 1/8" (28mm) or 1 3/16" (30mm) if you open up the inlet manifold flange to match.
I'd stick with the monobloc and rebuild it with new slide, needle, needle jet, spring, float needle, and perhaps jetblock. Would look at home on an old style chop. They run pretty well, too.

DAGAD · 03-28-2007

You get my vote on that, Mecchanica. However I would not bother with the 3 phase, single phase 120Watt will do nicely. NEW monoblock carbs are available, not expensive and are really good. 1 1/16" 376 or 1 1/8" 389 should match your inlet manifold, don't forget the heat insulator :wink:
Roy.

Mecchanica · 03-28-2007

If your bike is at all stock, it has the open winding alternator and who knows what kind of rectifier and regulator, plus the rotor will be suspect as to magnetism and more importantly the fit on the crankshaft and whether or not it is still intact....the alloy matrix can and does loosen on the steel hub, and this adds to vibration and can break the end of the crankshaft off. So it makes sense to start with all fresh stuff and the three phase kit has it all in a box and ready to go for a reasonable price. You get a new rotor, stator, compact regulator/rectifier for under 250 dollars, I believe.
Running the electronic ignition requires 10v or so minimum and it has to be steady. The three phase is inherently better at putting out steady voltage as the three phases overlap every 120 degrees or rotation, drastically smoothing the DC pulses from the reg./rect. at kicking/idling speed, and the capacitor clips the rest nicely. If you want electronic ignition and batteryless operation, I would use the 3 phase. You can also use a halogen headlamp.
Hell, I use the three phase no matter what. Can't have too much juice.

04-01-2007

Thanks for all the help guys. I think I have a pretty solid plan of how I want to do things now. Figured I'd put a cruddy pic or two on here for ya all to get an idea of what it is looking like so far. :-D