I was wondering if there is a 'how to', preferably with lots of pictures, out there on how to clean a sludge trap ('72 t100r). All the reading I have done lately suggests this should be done.

Also, is this something someone who is somewhat mechanically inclined, but with no real experiance, could do? if not, what would one expect to pay a shop for something like this?

Lastly, I read that some bearings should be redone at the same time, is this a part that would be available from the vendors noted in the 'good/bad parts suppliers'?

Thanks

Cleaning out the sludge trap involves breaking down the whole motor. The cases need to be split and the flywheel removed. The sludge trap is located in the flywheel. It is a big project, some special tools are needed, so it really depends on your knowledge and ability.

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Hey, What's this oil on the floor?

Quagmire, is there a test to see if it's necessary to clean the trap? Maybe an oil pressure test. I understand doing it as part of a complete rebuild. I guess if it was completely plugged you would have no oil pressure to the big ends and probably shuck a rod. Is that a true assumption? Just curious. Okie :???:

The cases do indeed need to be split open, and the crankshaft removed.

At that point, it would be false economy not to replace the two main crankshaft bearings which requires a bit of skill, dexterity, and luck. Oh, and special tools.

Once the crank is out, you need to remove the single flywheel bolt that "traps" the sludge tube in place in the Right side rod journal (the flywheel can stay on the crank).

Drill out the peen-mark that secures the sludge trap plug, and you'll need a large slot tool (snap-on) to remove the plug with an impact driver (the type you whack with a hammer).

There have been several good posts here about the next step which involves removing what is usually a very stubborn sludge trap from it's confines.

Once you get it removed, the likelihood is that it will be destroyed and you should replace it with a new one.

And you'd better by golly tap the new one ALL THE WAY IN, till the flywheel bolt hole re-alignes or else catastrophy will follow.

There is no need to ask how I know the last statement is very important. Suffice it to say that the use of the word "catastrophy" is not an understatement, and the use of the words "very important" in this paragraph are EXACTLY THAT.


[ This message was edited by: GrandPaulZ on 2007-03-16 22:55 ]

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GrandPaulZ
Author of "Old Bikes"
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Okie, I honestly don't know. My experience is very limited to my one engine rebuild. I came across an article once on the Mass British Iron Associations web site on how to clean the trap with the cases together?????? I'll try to find it, but I don't kow of any test.

Here I found it:

Click here

Let me just say I have never done this and I'm not sure I ever will!

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Hey, What's this oil on the floor?

ok, this is seeming a bit intimidating. The link to the non-case splitting method seems doable for me, but is it thorough enough?

And what would it cost to pay a shop? are we talking hundreds or thousands or?

Thanks

I did not read the link to the "non-case-splitting" method, but I've seen traps that in no way would clean up due to excessive heat causing the sludge to solidify where no solvent that I know of could ever possibly clean them. Also, the design of the trap system is such that it could be 90% clogged and still flow cleaner through it freely, but would be completely ineffective at trapping additional grunt.

DON'T DO IT!

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GrandPaulZ
Author of "Old Bikes"
Born Again Bikes
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If Darryl's oil has been regularly changed at, say, 1,500 mile intervals, would he still have a nasty sludge trap that needs thorough cleaning?

And would the engineered lifespan of bearings in that same well-lubricated engine have been reached by now, requiring their replacement?

I wouldn't make a guess at that without knowing the bike's history from day 1.

We don't even know the mileage.

Just because you frequently change oil, that's not the whole picture on the sludge trap. It's like doing an oil change on your car every 3,000 miles, but never changing the filter. Get it?

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GrandPaulZ
Author of "Old Bikes"
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There is only one way to do something and that is properly. That method is bodge engineering at it's best. How do you know you have removed ALA of the sludge, you may have just dislodged some to wreck your bearings later. Anyway how do you like the idea of purging some of the sludge out through the big end journal drillings onto your nice unworn big end shells as you turn the engine over. It makes me wince